I LOVE rip currents. Express trains through the surf line.
Not for the inexperienced; no.
“I LOVE rip currents. Express trains through the surf line.”
You must be a surfer dude. Surfer dudes can do lots of stuff that would kill us ordinary folks. Once I was swimming at Puerto Escondido and got caught out in some twelve foot surf. It was just beating me to death. I waved at a surfer and he paddled over and gave me his board. Saved my life, I’m sure. I went to thank him the next day at a restaurant, and all he said was, “Yeah, it was gnarly out there.” Great guy.