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1 posted on 12/25/2007 7:03:22 AM PST by LouAvul
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To: LouAvul
Get your book out and read the codes. It may also be on the inside of the front cover.

It is most likely a safety shutdown from either low gas pressure or dirty electricity (brown out), although your furnace may need to be cleaned. There are "lock-outs" if ignition fails three times in a row.

If it doesn't do it again, don't worry about it.

2 posted on 12/25/2007 7:19:54 AM PST by SouthTexas (Have a Merry and Blessed Christmas.)
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To: LouAvul

Did you have a power outage?


3 posted on 12/25/2007 7:20:52 AM PST by raybbr (You think it's bad now - wait till the anchor babies start to vote!)
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To: LouAvul

that’s a Merry Christmas wake up :^)
Glad you have the heat back.


4 posted on 12/25/2007 7:22:56 AM PST by RDTF (Remember Pearl Harbor)
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To: LouAvul

Could have been a bubble in the fuel line also - flame detect would be tripped, and just need a reset.. (if it’s an oil furnace)


5 posted on 12/25/2007 7:24:35 AM PST by xcamel (FDT/2008)
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To: LouAvul
The codes are the most important clue. Another possibility is that the electrical switches used in everything these days are made as cheaply as possible. The switch contacts are almost always just unplated brass parts that touch together in some way. A brass contact that doesn't get cycled and "wiped" can slowly oxidize and become intermittent. Possibly a cover interlock switch momentarily opened or became intermittent due to the vibration of the furnace blower. I've seen the same thing here on wall light switches that don't get used very often. Turn a light on and it flickers. Turn the switch on and off a few times and it's OK again.

I hate low quality electrical stuff, but I understand why it exists. If a manufacturer saves a dollar in production costs on a million units, that's a million dollars they saved.

6 posted on 12/25/2007 7:37:46 AM PST by Dumpster Baby ("Hope somebody finds me before the rats do .....")
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To: LouAvul

Maybe you can profit from my stupidity. My furnace was doing the same thing. I could get it to start by removing the lower door and putting it back on, but it would not start without doing this every time.

$105 to determine that while the thermostat was functioning and correct voltage was reaching the furnace, the thermostat wire to the furnace was broken and resting against the screw terminal.

Stripping the wire and re-securing it to the screw terminal was all that was needed.


7 posted on 12/25/2007 7:47:34 AM PST by listenhillary (You get more of what you focus on)
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To: LouAvul

any ideas?

I have experienced this with my heat control.

Be very careful in removing the cover. Get a soft small brush and, remove the dust from the controls.

I was explaining this problem in a hardware store, when some-one came to me and explained the dust thing. I did as he instructed and, it solved the problem.

I hope this will work for you also????


8 posted on 12/25/2007 8:01:45 AM PST by buck61
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To: LouAvul; Condor51

Hey, we need someone with a clue over here about HvAC.

And between you and me, that someone sure isn’t me.


9 posted on 12/25/2007 8:02:05 AM PST by texas booster (Join FreeRepublic's Folding@Home team (Team # 36120) Cure Alzheimer's!)
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To: LouAvul

If it’s a 90+ efficiency they have a shutdown if there is not enough incoming air. I had that happen once. I think a plastic bag blocked the incoming air pipe. Once it shut down, the pressure released and the bag dropped.

Now, maybe you can help me with my dryer. My BIL and I were up till 12:30 last night tryeing to diagnose that. We found a broken sensor and ordered a replacement on Ebay.


12 posted on 12/25/2007 8:22:38 AM PST by cyclotic (Support Scouting-Raising boys to be men, and politically incorrect at the same time.)
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To: LouAvul; Allegra; Tijeras_Slim

HVAC Socks

13 posted on 12/25/2007 8:44:47 AM PST by martin_fierro (MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!)
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To: LouAvul
*** My furnace failed to click on this morning. The digital light code was: 1 long light; 2 short lights. ***

Read your O&M Manual (Operating & Maintenance), or it may be an Installation Manual. The answer to the light code 'should be' in there. It may be something very minor (momentary low gas pressure).

That being said it could be in your Thermostat (the Light Code may point that out). Even digital stats go bad after several years.

But if its working now, don't be in a rush to call a serviceman, especially TODAY. And if you have to get one, get estimates.

Not knowing how old your furnace is, be careful of one thing under any case - if the service mans says "your heat exchanger is 'rusty' and you need a new furnace" - SHOW HIM THE DOOR.

But again, the answer lies in your manual to the light code.

(and yes, every furnace access door has a cut off safety switch behind it)

14 posted on 12/25/2007 8:48:37 AM PST by Condor51 (I wouldn't vote for Rooty under any circumstance -- even if Waterboarded!)
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To: LouAvul

Go elsewhere on ‘net.

Find a site that allows you to enter your furnace manufacturer and the codes.

I did same for clothes dryer and bought $21 part. Installed it myself in about 3 minutes. Service call would have been $80, plus a $60 part, and waiting about 10 days for it!

Merry Christmas.


16 posted on 12/25/2007 9:31:41 AM PST by MindBender26 (Is FR worth our time anymore? All the "fun" sees to be gone.)
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