Cool site with pictures, too many to post here:
The Heritage Rose Foundation:
Goals of the Heritage Rose Foundation
§ The collection of roses originating in the nineteenth century or earlier and roses with particular historic, educational, or genetic value (heritage roses).
§ The establishment of one or more gardens wherein heritage roses may be grown and displayed.
§ The advancement of research and investigations into heritage roses, including history, identification, genetics and breeding, propagation, diseases and pests, and suitability for landscape use.
§ The publishing and dissemination of information about heritage roses, including any and all research that emanates from the foundation.
§ The establishement and maintenace of a library of books, periodicals, research papers, manuscripts, catalogues, and other items to facilitate further research and investigation into heritage roses.
§ The establishment of public knowledge of heritage roses through seminars, meetings, forums, panels, lectures, tours and exhibits designed to encourage and increase the public's perception of heritage roses.
http://www.heritagerosefoundation.org/
I was doing a bit of this today, but I hit hardpan that last bit - but it's a raised bed, so it's not so awful. Added compost, a little sand, gypsum:
Double Digging
Every gardener's goal is--or at least should be--near-perfect soil. One technique for transforming so-so soil into super soil has several names. In some circles it's known as French-intensive gardening. Others call it bio-dynamic gardening. More commonly it's known as "double-digging."
No matter what you call it, it's the most backbreaking method of gardening. However, it's also the surest way to super soil. While it takes a tremendous amount of effort up front, the payoff--in the form of healthier, more productive plants--is almost immediate. Caution: If you have back problems or other health problems that prevent you from performing strenuous activity, forget about double-digging.
First, define the area where the digging will take place. Then soak the area with water a day or two prior to digging (unless it has rained recently) to make digging easier.
The tool to use for this is a square spade--a long-handled version is a little easier on the back. Speaking of the back, before getting started, you might want to do some stretching so you don't strain anything.
With the spade, dig a trench one-foot wide and one-foot deep down the entire length of the bed. Toss the excavated soil into a wheelbarrow or garden cart. With the trench complete, stab the spading fork into the subsoil, rocking it back and forth, to loosen the subsoil down to a depth of one foot. At this point, spread a two- to three-inch layer of compost over the exposed subsoil. Move over one spade's width in the bed, and begin to dig out another trench. But this time toss the excavated soil into the adjacent trench, the one you just added compost to.
When the digging is done, apply a two- to three-inch layer of compost on top of the bed, and gently work it into the top six inches of soil. By adding compost between the soil layers in the trenches as well as on top of the bed, you raise the bed roughly six inches above the original soil level.
You don't have to dig the entire garden all at once. Instead, work small areas, say, three feet square, whenever you wish. Once you double-dig a bed, don't walk on it. After all, the whole point is to loosen the topsoil and the subsoil to a depth of two feet so plant roots can grow unrestricted and water can readily percolate through the soil. Walking on the soil packs it down again.
If you've been wanting to improve your soil, especially for growing plants such as vegetables or roses, double-digging is the best way to do it. However, remember to start small, pace yourself and avoid straining your back. A few tips on spade safety are listed below:
* First, select a spade that's right for you and the job you're tackling. Short-handled spades are better for short folks or for working in tight spots, whereas long-handled equivalents seem to work better for folks taller than 6 feet. For serious digging, a pointed spade may work better, but a square-end version, if it's heavy enough, will allow you to make a cleaner, more uniformly shaped trench.
* Don't try to lift more than you can handle comfortably. Chances are you'll find that by taking smaller amounts, you can actually dig more for longer periods of time.
* As you work, take your time, and try to establish a rhythm. As soon as you feel you've had enough or you find it difficult to straighten up, stop. If you push beyond this point, you're likely to hurt yourself. Take a break, or save the rest of the digging for another day.
* Finally, when doing a lot of heavy digging, be sure to scrape the blade of soil now and then, and if necessary, use a file to sharpen the end of the spade, following the original bevel of the blade.
Tip: There's a big difference between a cheap spading fork and a good one. The tines on a cheap fork are thin, flat and bend easily in all but the fluffiest soils, but those on a good spading fork are square and will endure the toughest conditions. Good forks cost a bit more but will last much longer.
http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/gl_soil_water/article/0,1785,HGTV_3632_1372205,00.html