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I've watched 'em at Mavericks and, yup, gorgeous waves, but, with the rocks, ya' gotta be crazy to ride 'em!

As much as I enjoy watching those waves, my self preservation instinct always kept me from surfing there. I remember those rocks taking Mark Foo like it was yesterday.

Hawaii spoiled me rotten. I entered the '62 Makaha Championships but didn't quite make it to the finals.

Damn! You must have known Greg Knoll. What a character he is. My first board was a Knoll. It was so big it took two of us to carry it. Those must have been heady times.... before the sport got discovered.

North Shore (Haleiwa) almost drowned me several times - that 'pipeline' closes up fast!!

I wish I could say that I've been there and done that. I knew a couple of talented (and cocky) surfers in Santa Barbara who were humbled by the pipeline. They always talked about how incredible the speed was...never experienced anything like it. One ruptured an eardrum and was never the same. Closest I've ever come to that was a reef break off the coast of Legian beach in Bali. Must have been 14-16 feet and very hollow. I should have drowned that day. I was picking pieces of coral out of my skin for months.

We moved back to N.Cal , but the Monterey/Santa Cruz water temperature, even wet-suit clad, rather, ummm, cooled my passion for the sport

LOL! I guess you'd know all about Mavericks then. I was thinking that you still lived in Hawaii. I'd never be able to manage the water either these days and would probably be the guy sitting inside with the long board. Twenty-five years and twenty five pounds ago, long before knee surgery or back pain, it was a different story. I could have done pretty good in school if I hadn't spent so much time at Hollister Ranch, El Capitan and, occasionally, Rincon. I've been up your way a few times (Steamer Lane?) and Carmel but found that the "locals only" attitude was more pronounced there than in So. Cal. The water was colder as well.

Now I'm on the gulf coast of Florida where the water is always warm but you'll never see a wave. That's too bad because I'd like my boys to learn while they're young. It would also give me a good reason to get back in the water and get back into shape. :^)