I went to Krakow once about five years ago. It was fantastic! The square was massive and seemed entirely original; not at all marred by modern architecture. Wawel Castle there was very nice and interesting. The cathedral there contains St. Stanislaus' coffin, in silver, hanging from the ceiling. Amazing. It was also remerkable to me that when I saw little schoolchildren touring the Cathedral they acted like they were in a church and even prayed! (One can hang around churches in Prague or Salzberg a long time waiting to see someone under the age of 60 kneel in prayer.) One can also visit the "Oriental art room" and see some of the Turkish schwag Jan III Sobieski brought back from the Battle of Vienna (1648). (Take THAT Osama!) Finally, at night, just off the main square I went to a jazz club down in the cellars below some massive old building. All of the players and other patrons were Polish; Polish was the only language I heard spoken there. And, man, those cats could blow! I'm originally from South Louisiana and I know from jazz, and these fellas was playin' jazz, y'all! All in all a fantastic time. And best of all, every person I dealt with there was straightforward, friendly, and fair. No B.S. I recommend Krakow very highly.
Here are some more photos:
http://stats.pbase.com/bmcmorrow/wawel&page=all
The number of tourists was quite low then, which was bad for the city economy, I admit, but it allowed a visitor to stroll through the streets alone, to get lost, to walk in to some very local watering joint, ask for directions, get drunk with the cordial local folks... to find himself in an accident bed next morning... But I'll better cut this off before my wife got a glance on the screen over my shoulder.
Krakow rocks!