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VANITY - Car Question
12/1/05
| Bear_Slayer
Posted on 12/01/2005 10:28:11 AM PST by Bear_Slayer
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To: Bear_Slayer
For what it's worth, many 80s and early-90s GM cars could produce codes without a reader (at least my 84 Z28 and 86 Fiero GT would). Either the Chilton's or Haynes (or maby the internet) should give you the procedure. It involves using a piece of wire to jumper between two of the contacts on the diagnostic port. One of the idiot lights will flash the codes, which you can then interpret (whatever manual you get the procedure from should have the chart with the meanings).
41
posted on
12/01/2005 11:58:40 AM PST
by
Little Pig
(Is it time for "Cowboys and Muslims" yet?)
To: Bear_Slayer
Make sure the vacuum hose is good going to your MAP sensor located on the air filter housing (it looks like a black skinny matchbox) and then unplug the hose from the manifold to the charcoal canister (looks like a black coffee can made out of plastic with three hoses) behind the left headlight assembly and plug it with a golf tee or something similar and test drive the car.
42
posted on
12/01/2005 12:05:24 PM PST
by
Old Professer
(Fix the problem, not the blame!)
To: Redbob
I beg to differ. I had a '84 Celebrity that did exactly that when the O2 sensor went out.
That POS did a lot of other things on a weekly basis, but that particular problem was fixed by a new O2 sensor. I ultimately found the problem with the car was it was a Chevy, replaced it and have had a very few problems since.
To: scott7278
They were very light in the rear end. I have never dealt with snow but I hear the thing to do was to put about 200lb of sand bags in the rear.
44
posted on
12/01/2005 12:31:13 PM PST
by
freedomlover
(This Fall a Woman will be the Mother of a Mouse)
To: Rate_Determining_Step; Loyal Buckeye
I did some reading on this and it might be the problem.
The car idles high and I've read that this can burn out the catalytic converter. Are these expensive to replace?
To: Bear_Slayer
It depends on where you have them installed. I would try Midas or some similar muffler shop. OEM converters can be very expensive.
To: Bear_Slayer
"Are these expensive to replace?"
Expect to pay about $100 - 140.
47
posted on
12/01/2005 1:15:19 PM PST
by
Hegemony Cricket
(Sufficient unto the day is the evil thereof - usually by midmorning, or so.)
To: Phantom Lord; Xenophobic Alien
LOL! You guys are baaaad.
To: commish; Keith in Iowa
Keith, post #37 may be of interest to you.
To: Bear_Slayer
I replaced the O2 sensor. It seemed to help some, but It still has the problem. Thanks to all that provided help.
To: freedomlover
I guess that makes sense, but I only drove it once in the snow/ice and no more after that. The lightness and narrow tires made for a bad combination.
51
posted on
12/01/2005 7:03:37 PM PST
by
scott7278
(Before I give you the benefit of my reply, I'd like to know what we're talking about.)
To: Bear_Slayer
Someone mentioned adding "gas antifreeze" to the tank. It's good advice, but I'm worried about the name.
Ask for "drygas." That way, you won't have some moron dumping Prestone in your tank because he was confused.
52
posted on
12/01/2005 7:07:43 PM PST
by
Petronski
(Cyborg is the greatest blessing I have ever known.)
To: TChris
I don't care who you are, that's funny right there...
53
posted on
12/01/2005 7:10:59 PM PST
by
Petronski
(Cyborg is the greatest blessing I have ever known.)
To: Bear_Slayer
Usually a hundred to two hundred. The hard part is usually replacing it. If the exhaust is on the back of the engine (between the engine and firewall), fun days. If it's in front - between the engine and radiator, it shouldn't be too hard.
Although I usually turn my own wrench, but from Dec to Mar, I've been known to hire out a few jobs. Especially on cars I hate.
54
posted on
12/01/2005 8:09:07 PM PST
by
Rate_Determining_Step
(US Military - Draining the Swamp of Terrorism since 2001!)
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