Great topic, KaC.
For knitting, I will go to my grave cluthcing Elizabeth Zimmerman's Knitting Without Tears and Knitter's Almanac. Along with any and all of Priscilla Gibson-Roberts' books.
These two women took a fun hobby and turned it into a philosophical conversation, along with a touch of science, particularly engineering and topography.
They both gave me a strong base for designing, and just a joy in doing worthwhile work.
They are my heroes!
Pinz
I have Gibson-Roberts' book Simple Socks and I liked it, although I don't do toe down socks...but I do like the approach to garment construction that followed Zimmerman...I've been meaning to get Knitting Without Tears for an age now, but haven't gotten to it yet.
Maggie Rigetti's books (I have Knitting in Plain English and Sweater Knitting in Plain English) come out of that school of thought..
This is why I think in terms of gauge and measurement and shape, no doubt...