And, yes, I'm wearing my fire resistant tinfoil hat.
Assuming your 240 sq. ft. is correct, the answer has to be less than 240 board-ft, since the boards are only 3/4" thick.
So...
240 X 0.75 = 180 board ft.
Or is that the formula for determining the area of a trapezoid?
Publius6961 has it right.
The thing to remember is that board feet is volume. Multiply your square footage time the thickness and you have the volume.
Here I am, but I don't think we're talking about the same thing.
A square foot is a 12"x12". That's 144 Inches.
it will take 3 feet of a 4" to be equal. 36 x 4" So approximately 2.33 boards for board foot needed.
do the math, far as I can see....
1 board foot = 144 cubic inches of wood
1) Convert your square footage into square inches:
240 sq. ft. = 34560 sq. in.
2) Convert your floor boarding into cubic inches (volume):
34560 sq. in. X .75 in. = 25920 cu. in.
3) Convert board volume to board feet:
25920 cu in. / 144 cu in. = 180 board feet.
Trying to ply us for information, huh?
ping
Forget the hardwood. Buy laminate.
I worked in a lumber mill in the 60s and thickness was expressed in quarters. A one inch thickness was four quarters, one and a fourth inch was five quarters etc.
Hardwood is normally priced per nominal (rough) board foot (BF).
If you need boards with an actual dimension of 3/4 x 4, the rough stock used to mill them to that size will be 1" thick x whatever widths the mill has on hand to cut from.
Your BF price from the mill will be based on the cost of the rough stock (nominal) plus the milling time required to reach finish (actual) size.
How a mill chooses to cull their rough stock to meet your order is their problem/job,
but if they try to tell you that they have to get your 4" width out of 6" stock and charge you accordingly, they're full of shi'ite.
The rule of thumb is to add 1/2" to both the width and thickness dimensions of the sizes you need to end up with.
To reach actual thickness, a good mill will knock the first 3/16 of the crud/fuzz off both sides of the stock's width in the planer, then run the material through a wide-belt sander to meet your spec thickness, ready to stain.
Ripping to width is somewhat less wasteful because once the outer crud is removed from both edges, subsequent narrowing of the stock will involve the loss of ~1/8" for the width (kerf) of the rip blade plus ~1/32 after a pass over the jointer.
(with cherry and walnut running around $8/BF +/-, I do the math beforehand ;-)
As someone above stated, board footage is a volume measurement, but a nominal 1" thickness simplifies things a bit.
1 board foot = 144 cubic inches = 1" thick x 12" wide x 12" long.
So, assuming a room 22' x 10' with flooring boards at 4" wide:
Room = 22' x 10' = 220 square feet
Board = 4" x 96" = 384"/144 = 2.67 square fee
Room / board = 220/2.67 = 82.4 = 83 boards
Adding 10% for waste = 92 boards
(unless you do this for a living or are very careful, 15-20% would be wiser)
When you call the mill, specify 3/4 x 4 x 96 as the finished dimensions and tell them your nominal dimensions are:
1" x 4.5" x 96" x 92(pieces) = 276 board feet (39,744 square inches / 144)
All that assumes plain edged boards, but if tongue/groove is what you're envisioning, the tongue will require an extra 1/2" in the stock's nominal width.
You'll need to recompute accordingly and plan on a higher BF price to cover the machining time for milling the tongues/grooves.
Are we clear now ?