Posted on 05/10/2018 5:10:02 AM PDT by w1n1
I had a Colt Lightweight Agent for several years. It shot better than any other snubbie I have ever tried. Held 6 shots too.
I kept it loaded with wad cutters. Pleasant to shoot and I suspect they would have been deadly.
For me it has been 50 years with a .38 S&W snub for all the reasons listed in the article.
First handgun I bought, and still have, is a mid 50s era Det Special. It is deadly accurate, has never misfired. I also have my dad’s back up pistol from that era, same revolver. I still carry it from time to time, it just feels right to me. Have an original “seven tree” inside the pants holster and half a box of “super vels” left too.
My GF has that Taurus and it’s a bear to clean.
My father has a lady smith. Nice little gun and a good shooter.
One that can chamber .357 Magnum. .38 Special is not an adequate defensive cartridge.
I like the discussion topic, but this appears to be one of those goofy clickbait Top 5 articles written by someone who hasn’t actually shot one of these. The Taurus is hardly unique in “+P capability,”—I don’t think anyone makes a modern .38 that can’t handle +P. Colt hasn’t made the Detctive Special in years, and generally go for close to $2,000 or more—their modern .38 is the Cobra.
I’d probably go with a Smith 60 Pro Series or a Ruger SP101, though I,d consider going with a larger frame like a 686 or GP100.
The M&P 340 is a .357 Magnum/.38 Special. It has become my EDC since I started getting arthritis in my hands that makes it hard to rack a semi-auto in the event of a failure at a bad time. My M&P has the CT laser on it but I find the laser is useless. I quit buying laser-sighted hand guns. It is also no fun to shoot because of the wicked snap when using full-up .357 loads, but practice with standard .38’s is okay. The M&P 340 ain’t cheap but frankly, it’s worth it, IMO.
I had a recent-model Taurus .22 revolver, and was sorta relieved when it got stolen.
I have a Smith & Wesson Model 60, the first stainless revolver. Perfect for pocket or IWB carry.
I’ve had a 38s lcr in my pocket for years now. Hot, sweaty days or cold, snowy days it has never failed to fire.
I like that you can get the 340 without the lock, too, but agree with you on lasers. I just have a personal bias against shrouded hammer revolvers, even though I know full well that any defensive shooting will be in “dual action,” as the article puts it.
I’d probably go with the 686 or maybe the newly reintroduced 66. In carrying semis, I tried a single-stack micro 9, the M&P Shield, for a while, but have since gone over to carrying my full size Glock 21. The size doesn’t make that much difference to me, I’m not that paranoid about printing, and a full size pistol is just much easier to shoot well. In revolvers, the 357 recoil is much more tolerable in a mid-frame, though I never found it that bad in the SP101.
Regarding the Model 36. I was looking at and wanted to see what the factory spec was and the test loads the used for sighting since the Model 36 has a fixed ramp and not an adjustable rear sight.
I contacted S&W from their website and received the following in reply:
“Our factory spec for that model would be @ 10 yards hand held, it would have to hold at least a 2” group. We use 158gr SAAMI spec ammo.”
My intention was if I had purchased that Model 36 would have been to shoot ammunition matching what the factory used for sighting in the piece.
S&W was most helpful and the reply was literally overnight. I appreciate S&W commitment to answering questions regarding their product line. Although I am in disagreement with S&W on several other issues that have come up over the last few decades.
In another submission concerning +P for the Model 36 they did not recommend +P in a 36. However in a stainless model +P was okay to use according to the factory.
The author doesn't know anything. 9mm is not good for a revolver because of the design of the cartridge. The 38 has a lip at the bottom that is wider than the rest of the cartridge. It keeps the cartridge from sliding out the front of the cylinder. The 9mm has an indented waist at the botton of the cartridge and a lip that is not wider than the body of the cartridge. You have to use clips with a 9mm to keep the cartridge from sliding out of the cylinder. Clips are a pain in the neck, and you are apt to lose them.
Whichever you choose - just be sure to get a hammerless model.
“Because they have an internal hammer, they are dual action only.”
Kind of kills the writer’s credibility...as did mentioning that the trigger may “have a longer pole”.
He might try learning about revolvers before writing about them.
Uh oh...I carry a Model 60. External hammer. I’m doomed. My 686+ also has an external hammer.
I see Taurus as the Kia of guns. Cheap and adequate at best.
Rapid point shooting the Model 36 from waist high will obtain a "center of mass" group at ten yards.
If you want a semi-auto that racks easily you might try the Ruger Security 9 or, if you don’t mind the caliber (or the price) a Sig P238
Disclaimer: Opinions posted on Free Republic are those of the individual posters and do not necessarily represent the opinion of Free Republic or its management. All materials posted herein are protected by copyright law and the exemption for fair use of copyrighted works.