Posted on 09/16/2015 1:07:26 PM PDT by w1n1
We can all boast life lessons that have taught us certain principles. For me, the optics lesson happened years ago. Ed Sweet, the host of Kid Outdoors, and I would take a lot of kids bear hunting. I’d write articles about the hunts and he’d film them for his show. On one of our first hunts we saw 10 bears in two afternoons. Only once did I spot the bear before anyone else. That’s because my partners had good glass. I had an average pair of binoculars and have realized over the years that I had been missing a lot of game. I started a quest to learn more.
Unfortunately, the old saying “you get what you pay for” is never so true as it is in the optics world. When you buy a set, get the best that you can afford and you’ll never be sorry. I’ve heard a lot of people cuss bad optics, but I’ve never seen anyone regret buying good ones.
I thought I knew most of the optic companies out there and had tested products for at least half of them, but then I attended my first SHOT (Shooting, Hunting, Outdoor and Trade) Show years ago. Wow, was I shocked. I bet there were 50 to 75 optic companies on display.
So, who’s the best? What makes one better than another? They all look clear and crisp in the store, don’t they? So how can you tell which one to buy, and why spend $2,000 on a pair of binoculars when you can buy a pair for $99? Why would you buy a spotting scope instead of just using your binoculars or the scope on your rifle? Well, let’s try to get our sights around these questions.
What does it all mean?
On an 8×42, the 8 signifies the power or magnification. The second number, 42, is the objective size. You preferably want your objective size to be four times the power. If it is less than four times, it won’t let in enough light for low-light conditions like dawn or dusk. The problem is, the higher the objective, the heavier the weight. Therein lies our dilemma.
If you’re a sedentary hunter, buy a 10×50, but if you’re hiking all day, buy a 10×42. I used to recommend 8×42. My thinking was that when you’re huffing and puffing up a mountain and throw up anything larger than an 8x, you wouldn’t be stable enough to focus. Years ago, however, I realized how much game I was missing, so I now carry a 10x. Read the rest of the story here.
Anyone spending 2k on a pair of binoculars to go hunting, has a screw loose in the brain box IMO. But I have no issues with those who do.☺
I got a good pair for a lot less than $99 at Harbor Freight.
Yer right, 2K is crazy.
A lot of lenses are made in the same facility and bought off the shelf by companies that assemble them into scopes and slap their name on them. If you want the best you go with companies that make and coat their own lenses. But even then you can find problems if you go with the low end of their product line. To make a low end product, the company has to cut corners and this can show up as chromatic aberration or poor contrast due to light scatter from spherical aberration or coma.
Truthfully, I’d spend good money on quality optics that I’ll have for life before I’d buy the latest iphone that I’ll have for a year or 2.
Leupold only, just like the guy in the picture at the top has.
As a retired air traffic controller, there are two important characteristics to look for in Optics, “shock-proof” and “anti-fog”.
Steiner’s are worth the money.
At lower magnification you won’t notice much difference, but at high magnification the cheap optics will be dim and fuzzy. Some of your more expensive binoculars will also have image stabilization and maybe even range finding capability. You can’t hit what you can’t see. Granted, you’re not going to take a shot at an elk at 1,000 yards, but if you can see him out that far, you’ll have a better chance to change your position to make a shot when he comes within range.
And the good stuff usually has a lifetime warranty.
There is not much difference in thousand dollar binos and hundred dollar binos at high noon. Where the quality comes into play is in dim light. The light gathering and transmitting capabilities of the quality optics give you an extra 30 minutes to an hour of shooting light.
I know a guy who thought I was crazy to spend $800 on a rifle scope. He went with a $100 scope. He saw an elk that was in the 400 class. When he brought his rifle up, he could not see the elk. It was in later hours of the day.
This was 15 years ago. I have no problem spending money on good optics.
I have a pair of Zeiss Victory 10x56 binos that run almost $3000 now. That said, there are some very nice ones available for that $4-$500 sweet spot. I won mine in a sales contest. If you are hunting mulies or sheep and spending 8-10 hours a day looking through them, there is a difference.
Vortex Viper are a good 8x32 binocular, around $400.
In general a roof prism binoc is about double the $$ of a similar quality porro prism.
Want the best binoc for the money? Nikon Superior E porro prism.
Argh.. They don’t make them anymore. Really are superior. If you can find a pair scoop them up.
I bought a pair of Nikon Monarch 7. Beautiful binocs. But .. the CA (chromatic aberration) was terrible. Purple and red fringe on white objects. A shame as they are supposed to be very good. Sent them back.
Looking for good prices and excellent customer service?
Eagle Optics. They have their own brand that are very good.
Oh, don’t forget the Image Stabilized binocs. Canon makes one that’s 12x I think that is rock solid when turned on. They are bulky, optics aren’t quite up to the best but having a solid view, not shaky makes up for a lot of minor deficiencies.
http://www.eagleoptics.com/binoculars/canon/canon-image-stabilized-12x36-ii-binocular
Yea those superior E porro’s are sweet optics.I haven’t looked in a good while,but B&H photo was still selling them last I looked.The canon 10x42L’s are sweet optics also(Canon “L” glass) with the benefit of a rock solid steady image.
An old hunting friend in Montana told me always pay about the same amount for optics as your rifle.
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