Gets around 80 miles per gallon. Better than the 12 MPG my 99 Suburban gets.
Thing is, the lady who sold the solar panels said that the payments on them would replace my electric bill. That hasn't happened.
Kinda disappointing.
You have to do LOTS of homework to determine if solar is a good option for you. And if so, then do LOTS more homework to determine how much solar to get to take advantage of the economies of scale (more is better ROI), but not get so much that you run against the law of diminishing returns (more is less ROI). Same thing for inverter capacity and battery capacity.
I live in an area that's good for solar (the south). I had a small system for a year to make sure I liked it, then upgraded it to the full system I wanted originally (but only after I saw it worked well for my wife and me).
I exported the data recorded by my inverter in 5-minute candles (how much it gathered from solar at that time, how much it pulled from the grid at that time, to meet the power my home needed at that time, how much excess solar power was stored to batteries at the time, and how much battery power was pulled at the time). I imported that data into a SQL database on my personal laptop and analyzed exactly how often I could use more solar, more battery capacity, and more inverter capacity. I also analyzed how often extra solar equipment would be a waste of money. In between the upgrades I did other energy improvements to the home like installing a variable speed heat pump HVAC and hybrid water heater and insulation and such. I let all of that information drive exactly how much of my solar components I upgraded when I did the upgrade 2 years ago. And since it was time to replace my wife's car anyway, I replaced it with an EV and we do most of our driving in it. (Again, do the homework before getting an EV). We drive on average 1,300 miles per month on home charged miles (not counting if we take the EV on trips and charge away from home).
All of that is worth it even without selling power to the grid (which, depending on where you live, may result in you paying higher fees than you'd get back for putting power onto the grid, again, do your homework). That was two years ago. One more change was done after that: I've been selling power to the grid only for the past 10 months, only after I had the solar upgraded for a year and studied the telemetry to see if I'd make money selling power for about 1/5th as much as I pay for power (but adding $2/month in fixed fees plus a demand charge that only us people who sell power pay, at least where I live). Soon, on the 1-year anniversary of selling power to the grid, I'll see if selling power made me more money than the extra fees cost me. If not, I'll turn off the grid-sell feature and tell the power company that I'll go back to being billed like a regular residential customer (except for the fact that I pull from the grid only about 18% of the power we consume, because solar provides the other 82% of the power we need, including charging the EV).
What I pay now per month in tiny power bill + payment on a loan I took out to pay to install solar and do other energy improvements on the house, is way less than what I would be paying in large power bill + large natural gas bill + lots of gasoline at the pump. What I pay now is equivalent to what I used to pay for those things in year 2019 (last year of Trump before China virus) + $400/month I was putting aside to a car savings account to pay for the next used car we'd buy to replace old used car. I use that car savings account + the HELOC loan + the solar tax credit and EV tax credit to make the EV payments. The solar tax credit will end the same year that the EV payment ends (4 year car loan, and the solar tax credit is not refundable, but does carry-forward to future years). Meanwhile, my budget feels like it's still year 2019 as far as energy and transportation costs go. In short, what the solar/EV/home improvements project has done for us is protecting us from the past few years of sky high energy costs that the Dims put onto us with their warmagedddon cult.
But again, that works only if you DO YOUR HOMEWORK and take ownership of the details to make sure they fit your energy consumption habits and transportation needs and wants. I did enough homework before buying solar -- enough to tell who was scamming me and also know that my calculations can't depend on the grid-sell. Solar is worth it to me mainly by saving me on how much I pull from the grid. The amount the grid pays me for grid-sell is just a little gravy on top.
Our panels more than pay for our yearly electricity cost. In some months, like December, January, and February we pay $30 to $75 per month. In other months, like April, May, and September, we typically get a credit from net metering, which offsets the electricity we use for air conditioning in the Summer. What makes the system profitable is the $350 - $400 yearly check we receive for our SRECs. I honestly don’t know or care where the check comes from or what SRECs are or what the acronym actually stands for. What counts for me is that the check is consistent each year and it clears my account.