Posted on 03/29/2024 5:16:06 AM PDT by TermLimits4All
I have a 2019 Chevy Silverado with 103k miles on it. I'm just starting to notice ticking when accelerating or just revving the engine while parked. I know the silverado has a lifter issue with the AFM (Active Fuel Management) system so I'm getting concerned. I plan on ordering a stage 1 cam and lifter kit with a delete for the AFM to have installed.
My main concern is that I have to travel 2-21/2 hours each way daily, mostly highway but do not want to blow the engine of course. Then is goes from a 6k job to over 10k. Am I safe for a bit if it's just a dull tick for a little bit until the cam and other stuff arrives from Texas Speed?
I've never had an engine issue on one of my vehicles before, I have no check engine lights and my oil pressure is fine according to the guage on my dash.
Any mechanics out there have some insight? should I rent a car or is it safe to drive for a few days if it's a dull tick at this point?
5.3L v-8
I only do dealer service at this point. So it’s 0x30W synthetic, I think. Due to the extreme mileage I change it at 5k intervals.
Maybe the freeper ‘Nervous Tick’ has some advice. And maybe not. Lol
I wouldn’t think it to be ignition timing, or it would likely run rough at idle.
These complex engine systems, designed to get another 5-10 mpg, seem to cost more than the old tbi engines when combining repairs and fuel expenses.
2 1/2 hours commute each way? Yow! Get a 379 Pete and make some money with your commute. A logistics broker can find you loads on your route. Lol
I had heard of that issue before. I am having the exhaust manifold gaskets as well all at the same time.
First, please explain why you’re making a 2 1/2 hour commute in a full size pickup?
Why not keep the truck at the job site. Get a Civic beater with a heater for the commute.
Linked below is an article on disabling active Fuel Management in your truck. The device simply plugs into the diagnostic port in front of your left knee while in the driving position. It’s moderately expensive, around 200 bucks.
If your truck is not too badly damaged, it may prevent a future failure. If it stops the noise you now hear, it may do that. Unfortunately, you likely have to buy one to find out, and you need it right away.
You’re asking engine specific question on a political discussion site when there are make and model specific forums on the internet? Sounds like something a Chevy owner would do. SMDH…
Yes. I had it diagnosed by my local chevy dealership. They only recommended replacing a bank of lifters, not the entire side or both sides.
Cost for that at the dealership (both sides) without replacing the camshaft was 5500.00 another grand for cam.
If you want to buy a new gas GM truck then move closer to work ...just my experience. After 100K miles they run down. If it doesn’t happen one way then it happens another way.
Yes, there are lots of exceptions. It’s a trend, not an absolute.
This forum is my go-to for political commentary but there are also many intelligent people who subscribe and donate monthly to this forum who post in chit chat about many different topics FRiend. Did you simply click to post a snarky comment?
Since my vehicle is one of the most popular brands on the market, I posted for insight from other FReepers on like experiences.
FWIW I always run Valvoline full synthetic and switch the vehicle over to 10w30 after 100,000 miles. We have as a family over 2,000,000 miles on GM Trucks. Never had a lifter failure. I have silenced several noisy lifters on used ones belonging to friends by switching them to the Valvoline program. Disable the AFM as others have said.
Also, you mentioned plug and wire change. Run it in the dark and check those. The LS plug wires can be problem prone out of the box. Especially look at the wire in cylinder #8.
I hear you about moving closer to work. My business is expanding to a second city in GA and right now I am making the drive before hiring a salesperson. This is temporary, until about July when I’ll hire someone who can sell ice to an eskimo.
Good idea. I think my mechanic as the dealership should have noticed that when he diagnosed my issue. SO I don’t think that’s a problem but I’ll check. I already purchased the stage 1 cam and related parts. Just waiting for them to be delivered. I have worked on cars before and still do my own brakes, hoses, battery etc. The engine stuff I’m going to leave to the professional I’ve hired. Over 1100 positive reviews, 30 years working on Chevys and was also a referral. I’m feeling confident my truck will be in the right hands.
Sounds like you have a solid plan!
Hey, if you want economy, ya gotta pay for it.
If it were me I’d get a second opinion from an independent shop if possible
Stop planning and get the parts ordered. You are living on borrowed time.
That AFM is a known problem with those engines. He’s on the right track and if it’s not addressed soon he will lose that engine.
“What brand oil and weight are you using and how often are you changing it?”
My first thought as well - consider bumping the oil weight a bit.
Of course it may be simply that your oil level is a bit down.
Watch some videos o. YouTube about “Sea Foam” for the engine (I think the name is), hey take vehicles with severe ticking, and loss of power, and run that stuff through, and the difference is amazing. Might be worth trying first. Not sure if there are any downsides to usin it though- I dont think so, but no sure.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=agAWXnT4-EQ&t=348s
Another on how to use it
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=mzTdGupoew0&t=112s&pp=2AFwkAIB
Did it last? (Yep)
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=mzTdGupoew0&t=112s&pp=2AFwkAIB
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