Hybrids still have tanks, which means they still have Anodes, as far as I can tell. So, maybe do both, install a hybrid, but also have the powered Anode.
If anyone goes hybrid water heater (runs at only 300W or 350W), I strongly recommend looking at duct work to optimize it. For example, the attic being right above my water heater means I have prime warm air to utilize from the attic on most days, particularly here in Alabama. The air intake of my water heater is ducted from the attic so that it doesn't have to run as long during the warm half of the year (it doesn't have to work as hard to find heat energy in the air it draws in). 2 to 3 hours per day at 300W means 0.6 to 1 kWh per day to warm the water tank enough for two people to shower and use for other appliances. Not shabby.
As far as the water heater's air output goes, during the warm half of the year I duct it into my hvac's air intake. My water heater isn't close enough to the central hvac (a variable speed heat pump with variable speed air handler). My water heater is in a closet in the laundry room in the living quarters of the house (not in an unfinished basement or garage like some people's water heater). So I ran a new air receiver for my hvac into the floor of the water heater closet. Thus the cold air from the water heater is used as a free cold air source for my home during the 2 or so hours the water heater runs after my wife and I shower (perhaps 3 total hours in the day if we run hot water for other reasons like washing dishes and clothes). This means my home's variable speed heat pump can stay in low speed (drawing low power) for 2 or 3 hours longer each day -- a very important energy savings step in warm Alabama where most of our energy costs are for cooling the house.
When winter comes I flip two diverter levers to duct the water heater's air output into the attic (I don't want the free cold air from the water heater going into my living quarters during the winter). It'd be more efficient if I could duct the cold air out of the house, but that's too far to run the duct as per specs for the water heater's heat pump. So dumping the cold air to the attic will do, with me depending on the layers of insulation in the attic to keep most of the cold air from seeping into my living quarters. Even during the winter I still duct the air intake from the attic, though admittedly sometimes the attic air is cold. But that's not often. I do that because I don't want to draw in air from my living quarters that I've already used energy to warm up, only for my water heater to cool it back down. Months later when winter is over I flip the diverter levers again and direct the cold air to stay in the water heater's closet so that I use the cold air to help cool the house.