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To: SkyPilot
Sounds like the two of you have sufficient knowledge and experience to take on a project of this nature; I would definitely suggest you go for it. By way of comparison, when I ask others similar preliminary questions and they reply in the negative, I likewise advise them to run, not walk, as fast as they can away from the idea of RVing.

Putting in a vent is super easy - just make sure you have the appropriate jig to cut straight & square. Any std RV vent (https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Vents-and-Fans/Fantastic-Vent/FV801208.html) will have a 1" fascia lap (this is the border that gets sealed and covered) anyway to create a nice, seamless look both inside/out. And yes, get one with a built in fan - some have nice auto thermostat features - that run off the 12VDC system.

As for A/C, now we're talking 120VAC - really, a whole different ball of wax than 12VDC. First of all, wiring of course much heavier, but you also run into the issue of dealing with minimum code requirements. If you want to do it right, that necessitates maybe having having a licensed contractor do the work. For example, while 12VDC uses standard automotive fuses, 120VAC requires household panel fuses. The level of complexity just keeps climbing if you factor in battery demands, and then a converter unit to recharge from shore power (20/30/50 amp).

Conclusion: unless you really, Really, REALLY need coach A/C, forget the 120VAC system. However, if A/C is a baseline requirement, then you're going to need to budget having a "real" 120VAC electrical wiring system installed for you.

As for generators, don't even think about a built in Onan that feeds off the main fuel line; that's crazy talk. Rather, just get either the Honda or Yamaha 2000 (peak watt, constant is 1600). These are the super quiet 'portable' 55 lbs models - if it's still too heavy, spend the money on having a HD trailer hitch box installed to keep it outside. BTW, the 2000 watt models cannot run the std RV A/C units that take around 14 amps (14a x 120v = 1680 watts). You can go up to a 3000 watt generator, but they are no longer portable.

Lastly, definitely spring for Li batteries. They are pretty expensive, but it's how you can keep a battery pack indoors without venting. With std lead acid or AGM, they have to be outside or in a exterior panel with venting.

I guess my basic advice would be to take it step by step. ID the absolute must have items and go from there. You might be surprised with what you can get away with. My solid must haves would be: vent (fan equipped), solar array (min 300-400 watts), Li battery pack (200ah min)/controller, roof rack with built in ladder, 5-10 gal water tanks (1 fresh, 1 gray), 12VDC water pump, simple counter/catch basin, marine toilet and 2000w generator.

149 posted on 06/18/2019 9:58:01 AM PDT by semantic
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To: semantic
My solid must haves would be: vent (fan equipped), solar array (min 300-400 watts), Li battery pack (200ah min)/controller, roof rack with built in ladder, 5-10 gal water tanks (1 fresh, 1 gray), 12VDC water pump, simple counter/catch basin, marine toilet and 2000w generator.

Perfect! Thanks so much for all the wonderful advice.

150 posted on 06/18/2019 10:13:00 AM PDT by SkyPilot (("I am the way and the truth and the life. No one comes to the Father except through me." John 14:6))
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