Is he insane????
That’s a great picture, the one in post #13, not so great.
There are a bunch of YouTubes of that place, fascinating.
shore break vs an ocean wave; two very different things
In my youth I body surfed 40 foot waves. If the timing was off I’d go over the crest. It was like falling off a building.
The speed of the waves was incredible, nearly rip my shorts off. I’d have to duck-out 1/2 way into the ride or get caught in the spill and get thumped by the next wave. Very dangerous but very exhilarating.
The best waves always have a strong off-shore wind. Makes them stand up higher, break from the top and slide down the face. The wave pictured has a neutral or slight offshore wind as indicated by the depth of the breaking crest. The spray blow back is mostly from the speed of the wave.