You compress the cylinder in small steps with a C-clamp, taking any pressure off the rotor in order to remove the caliper from the bracket holding it. Caliper pins are threaded at each end, and should (even at OEM install) have thread lube to prevent the lockup that can happen from the vast amounts of moisture, heat, road salt, sand etc from causing the threads to lockup on either end. The “pins” are smooth in between and these allow the “travel” of the pads within the caliper as they wear. These should be lubed with HT lube (spec).
Agree with the 1/2 Auto transm. fluid 1/2 acetone dilution loosening fluid and let it sit re-wetting it several times, and with light tapping to increase laminar flow (what is called capillary action down/between the threads and the bracket’s threads. Should work, no need to heat up— the bracket’s had plenty of heat (not red hot, of course) from braking. Don’t be in a hurry.
Ah, that answers the question I was about to post: Are the pins threaded on both ends? (This is my 1st Ford brake job.) I think they may have been, on our other vehicle [Subaru], but I am a bit hazy on that. Information overload occurred some years back, for me!
That (threads in the “inner” end) may explain my problem, because I’m finding it hard to believe that 3 days of PB Blaster applications, plus hammer tapping, would not break loose the outer threads. Plus, what you are saying about heat, I was thinking too: These parts heat and cool quite a bit in use... but evidently not enough to keep the threads from locking up big-time.
But, if the inner threads (on the end away from the hex head) are the problem, there’s no way to get the penetrant to them, so far as I can see...