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Those bolts aren't known for giving the kind of trouble that you are running into. They'll be pretty tight but not knuckle busters. Also, the ones in the picture have a decent sized head (are yours different than those pictured?) It is more often that those sliders in your picture get frozen and can give you a real headache. You can use the prying back and forth between the pads and rotor to get an idea ahead of time whether or not one or the other of these sliders is frozen. Or, for example, while it is all still assembled, pry on the pad that is on the piston side to push the piston all the way in. Then get in between the back of the pad and the piston and pry that piston in until it is fully seated (something you'll need to do when replacing pads anyway). Now you should have plenty enough room to move the caliper body back and forth on the slides to find out what further trouble you might encounter. Obviously, if the piston won't retract, you need new calipers. If the pin, or pins are frozen you might work them free with heat applied to the caliper bracket.

The caliper bolts I’m dealing with have a shallower head than those in the pic, and that is definitely part of the problem. In the past, I’ve not had big problems with such (on other vehicles.)

My mechanic buddy who I finally was able to get in touch with last night says they use air impact wrenches on these because they do sometimes require more effort than can readily be applied with a conventional wrench. “Just grab the air impact wrench and be done with it.” Granted, he’s in a high corrosion problems area.

The brakes were working fine except for the pad wear. Everything that should push in-out seems to be moving around ok, the caliper pin bolts are just locked / won’t turn.