And how do I find out if a bad ballast resistor is what’s wrong?
There is a mechanic here, but I don’t know how much he would charge me to fix it.
I don’t have a Haynes (Haines?) Manual so I don’t know what a ballast resistor looks like.
Haynes is correct.
Never had that problem but your symptoms might be here.
http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/trouble/ignition.htm
More than you ever wanted to know about ballast resistors.
Whatever you say to the mechanic, never, never, never tell him you suspect that you’re low on 710. You’ll get taken for sure.
;>)
My experience with ballast resistors comes from Chrysler products. They used them to allow fuller voltage to the ignition system when starting, as that requires a different position of the ignition key switch so the electrical path can be different.
With a hotter spark, despite the starter pulling down the voltage, the car should start readily. Then releasing the key switch from the start position disengages the starter.
The changed electrical path then goes through the ballast resistor, reducing the voltage so that the components will last longer. If the car stops running at this point, you'll have to engage the starter again. This is the indication when your ballast resistor has failed. Basically, it's either good, or no good. It's just a piece of wire really.
But if your vehicle has one of these things in the engine compartment, you should have a spare to replace it if it should fail. Generally speaking, your car won't run without the ballast resistor.
But I don't think that's your problem. You said you could smell "raw gas". Your car is flooding at some point, making it hard to start, (and wasting gas).