It comes down to watering your roof. It works.
Posted on 05/17/2013 12:44:25 PM PDT by Feline_AIDS
It comes down to watering your roof. It works.
I agree, and the poster could get one that heats as well as cools. We have an circa 1907 house with hot water heat and I’m not about to give up my radiators! We have 4 units, 2 downstairs and 2 upstairs. They work great.
If you can’t figure it out you probably should call an electrician if you care how it looks.
They make joist hangers to mount a box. Fans are heavy so you’ll need a good mount. If an attic is overhead wiring is pretty easy but there are rules to follow so you don’t burn the house up. Do it soon before the attic is too hot.
the whole trick is to get the box installed. Then its just a standard install.
Just talked to my dad the electrical contractor. If you own, do the Wire Mold. If you are renting, do the swag chain. You can restore the room to original condition easier that way.
“Why not just install a Mitsubishi air conditioner? you can make a return to the outside and I’m telling you they work awesome.”
Generically, you’re talking a ductless split system. Excellent and very popular in every country but the US...but starting to gain some traction here. Buying one that is also a heat pump is also easy, as I think the majority of them are configured that way. And they are MUCH, MUCH, quieter than our typical box units.
Your wire mold is a good suggestion. Also, a cut-in box will NOT support the ceiling fan.
Yes, absolutely. A Wiremold box, or even a standard one, is not designed to hold a ceiling fan in place.
Huh? Center for Responsive Politics contradicts that. I can’t supply the link from my Android as I would like. Somebody help? FReegards!
they are whisper quiet.
I should install one in my office.
Yea, they are sweet and locally controllable - if a room is too hot, turn down the temp in that unit. It’s like the rest of the world has shot past us in this technology.
Before going to the cost and expense, why not see if air movement is going to mitigate your problem or if a return air duct is what is needed.
Get a quiet vornado type floor fan to sit in the corner. That will “entrain” the air turnover in the room and when run on low will be less impact than the ceiling fan.
If that makes it more pleasent, you just saved 300 bucks.
Ceiling fans need a rigid back-box mounted to ceiling joinst not something just cut in the sheet rock. Your light will also be behind the fan or the fan will have to be deeper for a light kit.
Got a window with an outlet near by? If so put in a small 5500-6000 BTW 120 volt window A/C in. The cost will likely be less than a professional install for the ceiling fan and you can always take it out in the fall and store it. It's also a good back up in case your central unit goes out you'll have at least one cool room until repairs are made.
Signed,
Retired Maintenance Mechanic HVAC/Electrican
Above the doorway to the room cut a hole for a register on both sides of the wall. You can close it off from the wall itself fairly easy thus making it an air duct. Put a register cover over both holes and that should allow air return even with the door closed and still provide privacy.
A ceiling fan would be a breeze to install, but I think just using some floor fans to circulate the air would do the trick.
I did that installation in several apartments that did not have ceiling fans installed. It works.
If your place is newer construction a wired smoke detector is required. For my office I bought a Ceiling Fan that operates with a remote control and tapped into the smoke detector for power. It did take a visit to the attic to fish through the line from the smoke detector and install the fan mounting bracket.
3 issues.
1) Structural support for the ceiling fan.
2) Power to the fan motor.
3) Fan controls.
1) Be sure to mount the fan to the structure. Ceiling beams would be preferable to the drywall ceiling, which will likely fail. Some residential structures already have a conduit and Junction Box with a ring plate mounted to install a light fixture. This also might work.
2) Power to the fan motor is most simply installed the same way you operate a table lamp. Use lamp cord with a ground from a wall receptacle to the fan. You can then surface mount conduit or “WireMold” if you like, but you can also buy little fastener clips for conductors and surface mount the lamp cord to the wall and ceiling over to the fan.
You can then install a switch on the lamp cord or even unplug it when not in use.
3) Controls.
If you are using a pull chain on the ceiling fan, make sure it is long enough to reach. The advantage of powering from a receptacle with a lamp cord is that it is obvious and simple to unplug the power if you ever have doubts about the wiring. Some fans are controlled by a remote. Others by hard wire to a switch.
Some fan motors are 3phase. I recommend you buy a single phase fan, so it is easy to install and less risk of fire or getting shocked or reverse spinning the fan.
Single phase power also makes it easier to simply turn the power on and off than 3 phase.
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