Posted on 07/08/2010 3:41:02 PM PDT by Little Bill
Race Bannon and I were up in the woods trying out his new M1A, nice piece of machinery.
Both Race and I wear Bifocals. I have never used a scope but he bought one and he needs some tips on how to get used to the thing. He was brought up on the M 16 when he was in the Crotch and the M1A is a different anamal, all tips are welcombe.
the M1A is the Springfield Armory version of the M14
It is a Monarch Scope
I have serious problems with stock weld, sight picture, and also steadying the weapon!
I learned on an M16 and with no pistol grip, it is too unnatural for me to hold it steady and crane my neck to the scope sight. It was supposed to be bore sighted to 100 yards, I had 8 inch groups at 60 yards, and it was a spread, not a group, to the right and high. So, maybe paralax? rear aperture alignment to the eye?
One suggestion here is the padding on the stock, I think I am going to have to break down and get that. It will help. However, i am also going to use a stationary rest to sight it in, THEN learn how to hold it rightly, that way, I KNOW it is me and not the sighting in that is off.
I have a SADLAK mount, Picatinny Rail, with a Monarch scope
I would love to have the titanium Sadlaks. I also found that a high cheek pad works wonders, the one I use is a laceup on my fiberglass stock, this winter I may just fiberglass a cheekpiece with some memory foam padding covered in something soft like suede. Just an idea so far. The laceup kinda moves a bit, it would probably work a lot better if I use some adhesive backed velcro instead.
I tend to agree - if your shots are pulling high and right, and have an 8” spread at 60 yards, it’s probably you, and not the scope or the rifle. It’s been my experience that the spread can be reduced with better breath control. Firing high and right typically indicates that you’re anticipating your shot, and subconsciously fighting the recoil - even before it happens.
It might not be a bad idea to have a local professional spend a little time with you. It shouldn’t take long to knock the rust off and lose the bad habits.
Best of luck!
I think you need a raised cheekpiece, Brownells has some good ones, also if you have a GI type of fiberglass stock with the steel folding buttplate and cleaning tools compartment they are noted for having a weak forend, and the M1A is torqued down by a housing that has to have just the right tension, too muck you will tweek the action, too little you have a loose action.
I JB welded a pair of shortened carbon fiber arrows into the foreend channel, just make sure no moving parts hit them. With a stiffer forend you can now tighten down the front lug, its really a weak design, simple but can give you accuracy problems, best bet is to buy an expensive aftermarket stock but you can get accuracy with a wood or a GI stock of which is what I use. Some folks have just shimmed the wood end so the lug wraps around snugly.
My favorite loads are the 150gr. all copper Barnes Triple shocks, or 168gr. Match HP.
For sighting the scope they could just turn off the gas valve and let it be a single shot, you have to manually cycle every round then. Small screwdriver, turn valve so slot is crosswise. Straight up and down is for semi-auto.
that fine rifle!!!,,,
Ya’ll need Shotguns!!!,,,LMAO,,,;0),,,
OK no more foolin’,,,
Try it from the bench-rest with some good match ammo,,,
Make sure everything is TIGHT,,,(mounts,bedding),,,
Locktite is a must,,,
Try a different scope and mounts,,,
This is JMHO and as ya’ll can see the cost goes up,,,
Last resort is to send it to a Riflesmith and have it
accurized,,,(that will cost),,,
“Betty Lou” will do no better than about 2.5” at 100yds.,,,
The one I carried in ‘Nam would hit a FU lizard at 50yds.,,,
(in the head),,,
P.S. I got a shotgun...;0)...
Perhaps the best advice I can give is to use a low power scope. Everybody thinks that they should put a scope on a rifle so they can magnify the image like the Hubble Telescope. While this has its uses, it is not always neccessary and it can be counterproductive.
A shotgun scope typically magnifies 1-4x. At 1 power, there is no magnification. The only thing the scope does is put the crosshair on the target. This means that both things are focused. Yummy! No more fuzzy sights or fuzzy targets. In World War II, they issued four power scopes to snipers. That’s it. Now they’re using ten power units, but they’re also using spotters and standing off much further back.
A shotgun scope has a longer eye relief. It sits farther away from the shooter. It helps pervent the shooter from being hit in the head. This can be a problem if the scope can’t be mounted further up the rifle, so you have to see if it will work with your mount. Other than that, the four power magnification will make an immage at 200 yards appear to be 50 yards, and you can shoot with both eyes open if the scope is set to 1 power.
Also, keep in mind this very important tip: shooting stuff is fun.
Come to an Appleseed, and we’ll gladly help you learn how to hold it correctly, sight it in, and learn to shoot from Standing, Prone, and Sitting. Check the schedule, there may be one in your area.
http://appleseedinfo.org/bc_schedule.php
it’s tempting, the rifle is so different to hold than my M16 from the Corps or AR15’s I owned
I honestly think some of it is my larger girth, I cant assume the position like I used to!!
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