One piece of forged steel with G10 non-slip handle scales. The plastic safety sheath has a fast-draw snap-out design that still manages to hold everything securely. The back is designed for either MOLLE strips, or a Tek-Loc belt/MOLLE clamp.
It comes totally unsharpened, so it will need a bit or work to get it to the hatchet level of sharpness, much less shaving-sharp. Same thing for the pointy end.I guess they decided everyone would have their own opinions on how to finish the project.
One thing I had to do was wrap the handle with that stretch-and-stick camo/bandage tape. My wrist needs all the help it can get, especially with jarring impacts.
The forked prybar on the end is a nice touch, turning this into a handy entry tool to pry a door open, rather than chop it to pieces. :)
The good news was the SA trigger pull was short, consistent, and had a very quick reset. Double-taps were easy, and accuracy was pretty good, with only 50 rounds fired so far, and that was cheap, old ammo.
That's 20 rounds, and I was concentrating on the gun, and not my shooting skills.
I think I'm going to tempt fate, and take it apart farther than the manual warns. First, I want to see where the "tells" are in contact points. Second, I want to study the kinematics of the start of the DA pull, and see if there's full contact on both surfaces, and whether a tiny radius on the strut might start the cocking process a bit slower and more gently. Maybe my dad's P38 will offer some clues, because for rushed wartime production, it still does a better job than this.
Oh, and one tiny nip from the slide. I guess my fat American hands don't quite match 1930s German ergonomics exactly, which means being vey careful trying to achieve a high thumb hold. Still, vey pleasant, and accurate, to shoot once past that long DA pull.