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10 Homemade Laundry Soap Detergent Recipes

Posted By TipNut On January 4, 2007 @ 7:26 am In DIY Projects, Frugal Living, Homemade Cleaners, Laundry, Popular Tips | Comments Disabled

Tipnut’s Homemade Laundry Detergent
Here is a nice stack of different homemade laundry detergent recipes I’ve collected over the years. Do they work? Yes, I’ve had good luck with them.

At the time I was using homemade detergent, we had a relative who was in trade school living with us. Every day he was mechanic grease from head to toe–the clothes cleaned up nice!

Making your own laundry detergent is a discipline and it’s not for everyone, but it definitely saves money–sometimes just costing pennies a load!

First Some Tips:

* For the bar soaps required in the recipes, you could try Fels-Naptha, Ivory soap, Sunlight bar soap, Kirk’s Hardwater Castile, and Zote. Don’t use heavily perfumed soaps.
* Washing Soda and Borax can normally be found in the laundry and cleaning aisles.
* Some people with really hard water or well water may have to adjust the recipes if the clothes look dingy.
* Although several of the recipes have the same ingredients, the measurements are different–some contain a higher soap to water ratio. Test and see which works best for your laundry needs.
* You can make huge pails of this at once, or smaller quantities. Also if you can get your hands on a few empty liquid laundry detergent bottles they work great for storing the detergent. Just make a big batch and pour in bottles, cap then use as needed–shake before use.
* Some of the recipes call for large amounts of water. Check with a local restaurant to see if they have any empty large pails from deep fryer oil–that’s how many restaurants buy the oil. See if you can have one or two of the pails after they’ve emptied it–just wash them out really well before using. They’re big, heavy plastic and very sturdy when stirring the soap and hot water.

10 Homemade Laundry Soap Detergent Recipes

Recipe #1

1 quart Water (boiling)
2 cups Bar soap (grated)
2 cups Borax
2 cups Washing Soda

* Add finely grated bar soap to the boiling water and stir until soap is melted. You can keep on low heat until soap is melted.
* Pour the soap water into a large, clean pail and add the Borax and Washing Soda. Stir well until all is dissolved.
* Add 2 gallons of water, stir until well mixed.
* Cover pail and use 1/4 cup for each load of laundry. Stir the soap each time you use it (will gel).

Recipe #2

Hot water
1 cup Washing Soda
1/2 cup Borax
1 Soap bar

* Grate the bar soap and add to a large saucepan with hot water. Stir over medium-low heat until soap dissolves and is melted.
* Fill a 10 gallon pail half full of hot water. Add the melted soap, Borax and Washing soda, stir well until all powder is dissolved. Top the pail up with more hot water.
* Use 1 cup per load, stirring soap before each use (will gel).

Recipe #3

Hot water
1/2 cup Washing Soda
1/2 cup Borax
1/3 bar Soap (grated)

* In a large pot, heat 3 pints of water. Add the grated bar soap and stir until melted. Then add the washing soda and borax. Stir until powder is dissolved, then remove from heat.
* In a 2 gallon clean pail, pour 1 quart of hot water and add the heated soap mixture. Top pail with cold water and stir well.
* Use 1/2 cup per load, stirring soap before each use (will gel).

Powdered Laundry Detergent – Recipe #4

2 cups Fels Naptha Soap (finely grated – you could also try the other bar soaps listed at the top)
1 cup Washing Soda
1 cup Borax

* Mix well and store in an airtight plastic container.
* Use 2 tablespoons per full load.

Recipe #5

Hot water
1 bar (4.5 oz) Ivory Soap – grated
1 cup Washing Soda

* In a large saucepan add grated soap and enough hot water to cover. Heat over medium-low heat and stir until soap is melted.
* Fill a large pail with 2.5 gallons of hot water, add hot soap mixture. Stir until well mixed.
* Then add the washing soda, again stirring until well mixed.
* Set aside to cool.
* Use 1/2 cup per full load, stirring well before each use (will gel)

Recipe #6

2.5 gallons Water (hot)
1 Bar soap (grated)
3/4 cup Washing Soda
3/4 cup Borax
2 TBS Glycerin

* Melt bar soap over medium-low heat topped with water, stir until soap is melted.
* In a large pail, pour 2.5 gallons of hot water, add melted soap mixture, washing soda, borax and glycerin. Mix well.
* Use 1/2 cup per full load.

Recipe #7

2 cups Bar soap (grated)
2 cups Washing Soda
2 – 2.5 gallons hot water

* Melt grated soap in saucepan with water to cover. Heat over medium-low heat and stir until soap is dissolved.
* Pour hot water in large pail, add hot soap and washing soda. Stir very well.
* Use 1 cup per full load.

Recipe #8

2 gallons Water (hot)
1 bar Soap (grated)
2 cups Baking soda (yes baking soda this time–not washing soda)

* Melt grated soap in a saucepan with enough hot water to cover. Cook on medium-low heat, stirring frequently until soap is melted.
* In a large pail, pour 2 gallons hot water. Add melted soap, stir well.
* Then add the baking soda, stir well again.
* Use 1/2 cup per full load, 1 cup per very soiled load.

Powdered Laundry Detergent – Recipe #9

12 cups Borax
8 cups Baking Soda
8 cups Washing Soda
8 cups Bar soap (grated)

* Mix all ingredients well and store in a sealed tub.
* Use 1/8 cup of powder per full load.

Recipe #10 – (Powdered)

1 cup Vinegar (white)
1 cup Baking Soda
1 cup Washing Soda
1/4 cup liquid castile soap

* Mix well and store in sealed container.
* I find it easiest to pour the liquid soap into the bowl first, stirred in the washing soda, then baking soda, then added the vinegar in small batches at a time (the recipe foams up at first). The mixture is a thick paste at first that will break down into a heavy powdered detergent, just keep stirring. There may be some hard lumps, try to break them down when stirring (it really helps to make sure the baking soda isn’t clumpy when first adding). I used 1/2 cup per full load with great results.

Liquid Detergents Note

Soap will be lumpy, goopy and gel-like. This is normal. Just give it a good stir before using. Make sure soap is covered with a lid when not in use. You could also pour the homemade soap in old (and cleaned) laundry detergent bottles and shake well before each use.

*If you can’t find Fels-Naptha locally, you can buy it online (check Amazon).
Optional

You can add between 10 to 15 drops of essential oil (per 2 gallons) to your homemade laundry detergent. Add once the soap has cooled to room temperature. Stir well and cover.

Essential oil ideas: lavender, rosemary, tea tree oil

*Admin Update: clarified instructions for Recipe #10 and liquid detergent notes.
Frequently Asked Questions

I’ve created a new page full of questions and answers for making homemade detergent, you can visit it here: Homemade Laundry Detergent FAQ [1].

You can still review all the questions, answers, recipes and tips that were shared in the comments area below. There are nearly 300 of them and it was hard for new readers to find the answers they needed since there’s so much information provided below.

No more comments will be accepted for this post but you’re welcome to start sharing your tips, recipes, questions & answers on the new page.

Don’t Miss These Tips:

* Homemade Laundry Detergent FAQ [1]
* Homemade Laundry Stain Pretreater Recipes [2]
* Homemade Liquid Hand Soap – Recipe [3]

Article printed from TipNut.com: http://tipnut.com

URL to article: http://tipnut.com/10-homemade-laundry-soap-detergent-recipes/

URLs in this post:

[1] Homemade Laundry Detergent FAQ: http://tipnut.com/homemade-laundry-detergent/

[2] Homemade Laundry Stain Pretreater Recipes: http://tipnut.com/homemade-laundry-stain-remover-recipes/

[3] Homemade Liquid Hand Soap – Recipe: http://tipnut.com/homemade-liquid-soap/

MARBLE, THE TOUGHEST OF THE TOUGH, BUT BE GENTLE!
Marble is one of the toughest floor surfaces is basically naturally, compressed, crystallized limestone, that can range from somewhat porous to very compact. It can be polished to a high shine and will remain that way with very little care almost forever. The following solutions will clean and keep the marble shining with a minimum of effort. Strong detergents and abrasives should never be used on marble since they will dull the shine and may cause deterioration of the marble.

GREAT MARBLE CLEANING FORMULA
Mix together the following ingredients in a small bucket to make a paste:

6% hydrogen peroxide
White all-purpose flour

The thick paste mixture needs to be placed on the complete marble floor area; not just a soiled spot or the balance of the marble will not have the same clean color. Place enough of the mixture to heavily coat the floor and place plastic sheeting over the mixture, taping down all around the edges. Allow the mixture to sit on the marble for 36 hours then carefully remove it with a plastic spatula and rinse the marble thoroughly with cool water.

POWDER FOR CLEANING MARBLE
The following ingredients will be needed:

3 Cups sodium sulfate
1 Cup sodium sulfite

Place the ingredients in a small bucket and mix well then place some of the mixture on a damp sponge and rub on the marble to clean it. Wipe off the mixture with warm water on a clean cloth that has been rung out very well.

BASIC MARBLE CLEANER
The following ingredients will be needed:

4 Parts of soft soap
4 parts of whiting
1 Part of sodium bicarbonate
2 Parts of copper sulfate

Place all the ingredients into a container and mix well. Rub the mixture on the marble with a flannel cloth and allow it to remain for 24 hours then wash it off with clear cool water. Polish the marble with a clean flannel clothe.

REMOVING OIL STAINS FROM MARBLE
The following ingredients will be needed:

9 ¾ Ounces of cereal flour
13 ½ Ounces of hydrochloric acid (use with care)
4 Ounces of chloride of lime
2 Teaspoons of turpentine

Wear gloves and a mask. Place all the ingredients into a glass or porcelain container and blend into a paste. Smear the paste on the stains and allow it to remain for 6-8 hours. Remove the paste with a brush or piece of soft leather. Polish the area after the stain has been removed. This formulation will remove grease from marble very easily.

CLEANER FOR PARQUET FLOORS
The following ingredients will be needed:

2 ¼ Cup of mineral oil
¾ Cup of oleic acid
2 Tablespoons of household ammonia
4 ½ tablespoons of turpentine

Place the mineral oil and the oleic acid in a bucket and mix well (wear rubber gloves) then add the ammonia and turpentine while stirring well to mix completely. This is a concentrated solution and ½ cup of the solution needs to be added to ½ gallon of warm tap water then mop the floor. Store in a well-sealed container for future use.

WOOD FLOORS, A TOUCH OF THE OLDEN DAYS
The combination of wooden flooring and carpeting is becoming more common in the last 5 years and lends a bit of the olden days to your home. The care and cleaning of these floors, however, take more time since they must be cared for as if they were a fine piece of furniture. Wood floors are more expensive than most carpeting and should be vacuumed regularly or the dirt and grime will scratch the surface and the floor will need re-finishing after very few years.

If your floor has been sealed with a varnish or shellac, never clean them with a water-based product or even clear water. A turpentine product is recommended. In fact, most wood floors will be damaged if water is used since the water tends to raise the grain and permanently dull the wood. The only exception to the rule is if the floor has been water-sealed. If the wood has been oiled, it would be best to just clean the floor with a mild solution of dish soap and just damp mop it to remove the suds and any scum leftover.

GENERAL CLEANER FOR WOOD FLOORS
The following ingredients will be needed:

2 ¼ Cups of mineral oil
¾ Cups of oleic acid (from drug store)
2 Tablespoons of household ammonia (toxic)
5 Tablespoons of turpentine (toxic)
2 Quarts of cool tap water

Place the mineral oil and oleic acid in a container and mix well then add the ammonia and turpentine and mix well. Place 1 cup of the mixture into the 2 quarts of water, and then apply to floor with a sponge mop. Rinsing will not be necessary. Keep out of reach of children.

BASIC LIQUID FLOOR WAX
The following ingredients will be needed:

¼ Pound of beeswax
1 Pound of paraffin
½ Cup of raw linseed oil
3 Cups of turpentine

Place the beeswax and paraffin in a double boiler and heat until melted. Remove from the heat and allow the wax to cool. After it has cooled for 5-10 minutes stir in the linseed oil and the turpentine and mix thoroughly. A thin coat of the wax can be applied to the floor and then buffed with a mop buffer or electric polisher.

WAX REMOVER #1
The following ingredients will be needed:

5+ Cups of washing soda
Warm water as required

Place the washing soda in a bucket and add just enough water to make a loose paste. Place the paste on the floor and allow it to dry. The wax should bubble up and flake off easily. The floor needs to be thoroughly rinsed until the wax and washing soda residue is removed. The longer the washing soda is left on and moist, the more wax will be removed.

WAX REMOVER #2
The following ingredients will be needed:

2 Cups of household ammonia
½ Cup of washing soda
4 Quarts of warm tap water

Place all the ingredients into a bucket and mix well (wear rubber gloves). Using a sponge mop, place a good layer of the solution on the floor and allow it to sit for 5-10 minutes. Scrub the floor as you would normally and the old wax should be loosened and easily removed.

BE GENTLE, OR LINOLEUM WILL HAVE A CRACK-UP
Linoleum can be manufactured by using a mixture of resins, small particles of cork or wood fibers) and linseed oil that is adhered to a canvass, burlap or felt backing using high pressure. Never use a strong alkali-based cleaner on linoleum since they tend to ruin the linseed oil binder and may cause the floor to develop cracks, thus shortening the usable life of the flooring. Best to use a mild detergent solution and dry as soon as has been cleaned. A linoleum formula should never be used on a wood or cork floor.

PASTE WAX FOR LINOLEUM #1
The following ingredients will be needed:

2 Cups of carnauba wax
2 Cups of ceresin wax
4 ½ Cups of mineral spirits

Place the carnauba and ceresin wax in a double boiler and melt. Remove from the heat and allow the wax to cool then very slowly add the mineral spirits stirring continually. When the mixture starts to harden around the edges, pour into a container and allow the mixture to harden.

PASTE WAX FOR LINOLEUM #2
The following ingredients will be needed:

2 Tablespoons of paraffin wax
4 Tablespoons of yellow beeswax
4 Cups of turpentine

Place the waxes in a double boiler and heat until melted then remove from the heat and add the turpentine, while continually mixing. Allow the mixture to cool and store in a sealed container.

BASIC LINOLEUM POLISH
The following ingredients will be needed:

1 Part of palm oil
18 Parts of paraffin
4 Parts of kerosene

Place the paraffin in a double boiler and melt. Remove from the heat and add the oil and kerosene while mixing very well.

BASIC LINOLEUM CLEANER
The following ingredients will be needed:

5 Parts of beeswax
11 Parts of oil of turpentine
5 Parts of varnish

Place the beeswax in a saucepan and melt over low heat. Remove from the heat and very slowly stir in the oil of turpentine then add the varnish and continue stirring until the mixture is well blended. Apply the cleaner after the floor has been washed with soap and water with a soft cloth mop.

PASTE WAX FOR WOOD FLOORS
The following ingredients will be needed:

2 Tablespoons yellow beeswax
5 tablespoons of ceresin wax
9 Tablespoons of carnauba wax
3 Tablespoon montan wax
2 Cups of mineral spirits
4 Tablespoons of turpentine
¾ Tablespoon of pine oil

Place the waxes in a double boiler and heat until the waxes melt then remove from heat. In another container mix the turpentine, mineral spirits and pine oil together well and add this mixture to the wax and stir well. When the temperature of the wax mixture is at 1350 F., pour into a metal container and allow the wax to cool and set for 8-10 hours at room temperature.

A NON-RESILIENT FLOOR NEEDS TLC
This category of flooring includes ceramic tile, concrete, brick, and all types of stone flooring material. Best to just clean stone and brick surfaces with a solution of vinegar and water (1 cup of vinegar to 1 gallon of water) whereas concrete needs to be cleaned with an all-purpose detergent or concrete cleaner. If tile is in bad shape and needs to cleaned to remove ground in dirt and residues, the following formula will be needed otherwise just use a mild soap solution.

SPANISH TILE CLEANER & CONDITIONER
The following ingredients will be needed:

2 1/3 Cups of oleic acid
1 Tablespoon of triethanolamine (from drug store)
3 Cups of cool tap water

Place the ingredients into a double boiler and just heat; do not allow boiling. Remove from heat and beat with an electric mixer until the mixture becomes milky. Apply the mixture to the tile floors with a sponge and allow it to dry for 8-10 hours before rubbing off with a dry bath towel.

FIRST AID FOR OLD WOOD FLOORS
The following bleach is very poisonous and needs to be used with extreme caution and not swallowed by children, adults or pets. However, it is the treatment of choice to remove all the old stains and even the ground in grime from years of abuse and poor cleaning methods. The old wood floor should be cleansed as best as possible first with a good wood floor cleanser.

BLEACH FOR WOOD FLOORS
The following ingredients will be needed:

18 Cups of sodium metasilicate (from drug store)
2 Cups sodium perborate (from drug store) (POISON)
1 Gallon of very hot tap water

Place the two sodium ingredients into a bucket and mix well. In another bucket place the gallon of very hot water then add the sodium ingredients into the water, while mixing well, and then scrub the floor with a soap and water solution before using the bleach. Place the bleach on the floor with a sponge mop and allow it to remain for about 30 minutes before rinsing the floor with cool, clear water. If you still have spots that are not coming out, just re-do those spots.

NON-SLIP WAX FOR WOOD FLOORS
The following ingredients will be needed:

2 Cups of denatured alcohol (flammable)
1 Cup of orange shellac (flammable)
2 Tablespoons of acacia
2 Tablespoon of turpentine (flammable)

Place all the ingredients into a small bucket and blend well then apply to the floor with a cloth sponge mop and allow the wax to dry for 45 minutes.

FLOOR WAX FOR DANCE FLOORS
The following ingredients will be needed:

½ Pound of talc
1 Cup of stearic acid

Place the ingredients into a glass container with a lid and mix well then sprinkle a small amount around the floor

DUSTING MAGNET MOP OIL
The following ingredients will be needed:

1 Cup of turpentine (flammable)
2 Cups of mineral oil

Place the ingredients into a container and mix well. Place a small amount of the mixture on your dust mop and the dust will jump into the mop.

MAKING COLORLESS FLOOR SHELLAC
The following ingredients will be needed:

1 Quart of denatured alcohol
12 Ounces of pure flake shellac

Place all the ingredients into a sealed container and shake frequently until the shellac is fully dissolved in the alcohol. Do not use a metal container to store the solution since it will turn the shellac black.

Shellac should be used as an undercoat before you varnish a wood floor. This will give you a hard long-lasting beautiful finish for many years.

MAKING FLOOR VARNISH
The following ingredients will be needed:

3 Parts of Manila copal (spirit soluble)
15 ½ Parts of powdered ruby shellac
3 Parts of Venice turpentine
62 ½ Parts of alcohol (96%)

Place the alcohol in a large container and dissolve the other ingredients into the alcohol. The solution then needs to be filtered through a number of thicknesses of wire screening.

NO-WAX FLOOR CLEANER
The following ingredients will be needed:

1 Cup of white vinegar
¼ Cup of washing soda
1 Tablespoon of Castile soap (liquid)
2 Gallons of very hot tap water

Place all the ingredients into a bucket and blend well then mop the floor as usual. This formula will eliminate any greasy condition.

BATHROOM CLEANING

REMOVING MILDEW
While many people tend to use a formula containing chlorine bleach, which does work well, I prefer a somewhat milder chemical mixture that will not be as harsh to your lungs. Mix the following ingredients together in a medium plastic container:

½ Cup of Borax
1 Gallon of hot tap water

The solution will remove the mildew and then should be washed with the same solution and allowed to remain and not washed off for a lasting effect.

IT’S A DIRTY JOB, BUT SOMEBODY HAS TO DO IT
Toilets are made of either porcelain or ceramics and are acid resistant, which is good since most of the commercial toilet cleaners contain either an acid or ingredients that turn into acid when they come into contact with water.

Needless to say if you swallow most commercial toilet cleaners it will most likely lead to your demise in very short order. If you use one of the following formulas and there is still a ring that persists, try using a pumice bar to remove the ring. Just dampen the bar and gently rub the surface to avoid scratching it. A “00” sandpaper will also do the trick.

MAKING TOILET BOWL CLEANER #1
The following ingredients will be needed:

1 Cup of hydrogen peroxide
1 Tablespoon of household ammonia
2 Quarts of warm tap water

Place all the ingredients into a bucket and mix well. You will need about 1 quart of the solution for each toilet. Pour the solution in the toilet and allow it to remain for about 30-40 minutes before you scrub and flush. If this is done weekly, residues and discoloration should not occur.

TOILET BOWL CLEANER #2
The following ingredients will be needed:

¾ Cup of alum (powdered)
¼ Cup of table salt
1 ½ Cups of caustic soda (use with gloves and mask)

Place the ingredients in a container and mix well with a wooden spoon then store it in a well sealed container in a cool, dry location. Caustic soda can cause burns if it comes into contact with the skin. When cleaning the toilet, wet the sides with your toilet brush then sprinkle the mixture on the sides and allow it to remain for 10-15 minutes. Scrub and flush for a sanitary bowl you can show off to your neighbors.

INEXPENSIVE TOILET BOWL CLEANER #1
The following ingredients will be needed:

1 Cup of white vinegar

Place the vinegar into the toilet and allow it to remain for 8-10 hours then scrub.

INEXPENSIVE TOILET BOWL CLEANER #2
The following ingredients will be needed:

1 Cup of Castile soap (liquid)
¼ Cup of borax
¼ Cup of baking soda
Place all the ingredients into a container and mix well. Add a small amount of very warm water if you have a problem blending the ingredients. Pour into toilet and scrub with a brush.

From: 1,001 SECRET MONEY SAVING FORMULAS