http://kalynskitchen.blogspot.com/2005/04/easy-south-beach-recipes-5-main.html
Easy South Beach Recipes
(5 Main Ingredients or Less)
This page has South Beach friendly recipes with relatively simple preparation methods and 5 main ingredients or less. When I’m counting ingredients to see whether a recipe makes it on this page, I don’t count things like olive oil, cooking oil, water, salt, or pepper. (I’m forever missing recipes that could go in this category, so if you see a recipe on my blog that seems like it should be here and isn’t, leave a comment on that recipe and I’ll add it here. Thanks!)
Return to Kalyn’s Kitchen home.
For the benefit of those following The South Beach diet, notations after each recipe listing indicate Kalyn’s opinion as to which phase of the diet each that recipe can be used for.
[Very long list of recipes, all types]
http://inmykitchengarden.blogspot.com/2006/09/whats-growin-on-91806.html
Linda Sue in Texas said...
Hey back at you FarmGirl - great photos this week - thought I’d share the only formulation I found that sounded reasonable for a mint facial mask. Found by googling and ended up at www.care2.com
At the very least - one would smell luscious!
INGREDIENTS
10 large peppermint leaves
1/3 cup water
1 tablespoon white cosmetic clay
1. Add the peppermint leaves and water to a blender and mix until green and frothy. Strain.
2. In a small bowl, add mint liquid to the clay and stir until a spreadable paste forms.
3. Spread onto a clean face and throat and let dry. Rinse.
Helpful Hints:
You can find cosmetic clay online, or at your local herb or health food store.
[This would be excellent for pimples on a young person’s face.
But I wouldn’t strain the mint out, I would leave it in and use just enough water to make it wet enough to soak the clay.
The facial that I mixed for Kendra was several herbs and we had her lay down, be still and she was willing, then I warmed the leaves and we used the leaves for a pack on the face, maybe with a hot washcloth over it all.
granny]
a cobalt blue handmade ceramic vase decorated with the face of a cat purchased 20 years ago from the artist at an outdoor fair and a small pale green ceramic Art Deco pitcher (both filled with sand and used as bookends),
[[Why didn’t I ever think of that?]
http://www.foodiefarmgirl.blogspot.com/
A blog with lots of real animal photos, recipes and a garden.
Beautiful photos, worth looking at, sheep, donkeys, dogs, cats, even chickens.
http://foodiefarmgirl.blogspot.com/search/label/Sarah%20Kit%20Kat%20Kate
cats and more links to more sites......
http://foodiefarmgirl.blogspot.com/search/label/Molly%20Doodlebug%20(aka%20The%20Doodle%20Monster)
Tiny baby lamb, has to fight the cat for its grass....
http://foodiefarmgirl.blogspot.com/2006/09/daily-farm-photo-92706.html
Lots of recipes and more links to recipes and farm life.
Improve Garden Soil with Cover Crops
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
by Valerie Palmer
It is important to add organic matter to your soil every
year - whether you’re using chemical fertilizers or
gardening organically. Healthy soil is alive, actually
teeming with earthworms and micro-organisms by the millions
that have each got particular functions in making the soil
fertile. If your garden soil is going to continue to
produce for you, it needs to be fed plenty of organic
material.
Soil life eats and decomposes organic matter, which causes
minerals to be released in a form that plant roots can
absorb. In addition to this fertilizing effect, all the
organic waste helps the texture of the soil - loosening
hard-packed clay or binding loose, sandy soil. Humus gives
the soil its necessary sponge-like texture that allows air
circulation and moisture retention.
For these natural processes to occur, the soil life needs
fresh supplies of food. Without this fuel, earthworms go
away and the minerals and nutrients get ‘locked’ in soil
particles, not available for plant growth. Insect pests and
diseases take over the weakened plants. Pouring on the
chemical fertilizers won’t help because they don’t
contribute to soil texture and flourishing soil life.
This is a simplification of a very complex natural process
of soil chemistry that justifies in-depth study in its own.
But the intention here is to give a basic idea of the
absolute necessity of a generous annual addition of organic
matter to all continuously used garden soil. Now, here are
some suggestions about how to feed the soil.
One method, of course, is to chop garden residues and
weeds into the soil after a crop is harvested. Also,
there’s the option to haul in compost, in packages or in
bulk when available. If there are processors in your area,
(such as canneries or cider mills), often they will have
waste organic material for the taking. Nearby farms
usually welcome removal of animal manures: cattle, horses,
chicken and rabbit. Any hay or straw used as mulch can be
chopped in, along with leaves and lawn clippings.
The fastest and easiest way to turn almost any bit of soil
into superior loam is to use cover-crops, also known as
green manures, and till them in. Over time, this practice
will add to the topsoil rather than taking it away with
harvested crops. This is especially necessary for the
gardener who is growing food in the long-term on the same
patch of ground.
Some notes:
1) Green manures can be grown in rotation: follow an early
cover-crop with a late season planting of produce, or a
plant a late green manure following an early vegetable crop
like peas and lettuce). That way even small gardens can
have a harvest crop and a cover-crop each year.
2) Using green manures can be done by any gardener with or
without powered equipment. However, a roto-tiller is the
easiest method. If necessary, you can rent one.
Here are some suggestions for home garden cover-crops. A)
Use legumes such as soybeans, peas, vetch, and alfalfa.
They will ‘fix’ nitrogen from the atmosphere when you use
‘inoculated’ seeds that are attractive to a certain kind of
microbe. Also, some legumes are vegetables, providing both
a food and a green manure with the same crop. B) Plant
ryegrass for a bulky, hardy crop that grows quickly. An
annual variety is best, so that a late-summer crop will die
back during winter allowing easy tillage in spring. C) For
extremely poor soil, buckwheat is recommended. It will
grow quickly and choke out weeds as well. Sow buckwheat
for a main summer crop, after harvesting lettuce, etc.
The benefits to the soil of using cover-crops can’t be
overstated. In addition, there are other advantages: they
help control weeds, they attract bees, and the carpet of
green makes the garden look good right up to snowfall.
As a master gardener, Valerie Palmer has made a study of
topics related to gardens. She is contributing writer of
articles for The News about Gardening , your premier resource
on-line for information on gardening. Find the archive of articles
at: http://www.tlcgardening.com/
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
This article may be reprinted in its
entirety so long as the authors credits, and all links remain intact.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Submit Your Gardening Article
http://www.atozgardening.com/articles/06-improve-garden-soil-with-cover-crops.html
Feng Shui - The Art of Placement
by Karen Havenor
http://www.fqhouse.com
Feng Shui. Is it a buzz-word, or is there something in
this ancient body of knowledge that can inform and
enhance modern living? A definition of feng shui is a
helpful place to begin answering that question.
Essentially, feng shui is an environmental science used to
creating a proper and balanced flow of energy through
the art of placement. Feng shui is a philosophy as well
as a practice. Although it originated in China, all societies
have the knowledge contained in feng shui. Its use
contributes to individual well-being and ultimately to that
of entire communities.
Whether at home or at work or around out communities,
feng shui as practiced in the West today guides us in
creating environments that support us and set us at
ease. Some feng shui practices simply make sense:
natural light, fresh air, and clean environments are good
for the well being of both our bodies and spirits.
At the same time, feng shui contains other environmental
concepts that might not seem so obvious as potentially
beneficial or harmful. In fact, some harmful arrangements
go unnoticed until we recognize a problem area in our life
and take steps to correct the problem. Once our
surrounding are properly ordered, we can connect to the
energy around us that allows us to experience desired
changes for the better.
Some spaces instinctively feel right, whether by
intentional design or by someone with a knack for
placement and flow. What are some of the feng shui
principles at work in places that give the feeling of
peaceful welcome?
One principle is the balance of yin and yang. According
to feng shui, these two forces always act together in
creating energy. In balance, there is well-being. However,
when one force dominates, the imbalance can be
detrimental. These positive and negative forces are
opposites, yes, but yin and yang are interdependent.
That is, without knowing softness, one cannot
understand hardness. Stillness and motion, low and high,
cold and hot: these are examples of yin forces and yang
forces, which at their extreme can change into the other.
For example, sunstroke can make victims shiver and ice
can feel like a burn. In feng shui, the object is to balance
opposites.
A second principle of spaces that feel right is the idea
of Chi. Chi doesn’t have a western equivalent, but loosely
can be translated as the life force of animate things, the
power of the sun and weather, the quality of the inanimate
or of the environment. In short, the energy. When Chi is
blocked in our bodies, acupuncture is used to help it flow
and restore health. Where Chi is blocked in our homes or
other surroundings, proper re-arrangement will get it
flowing smoothly and gently once again, restoring peace
and harmony for the occupants.
To improve the balance of yin and yang, as well as the
proper flow of Chi, you could find very detailed
instructions in the plethora of books on the subject. These
two principles are an excellent beginning point for
applying feng shui to your surroundings. However, you
need not refer to another source at all to begin right now
with the simplest and most powerful thing you can do to
affect the quality of your life for the better. Put simply,
clear your clutter.
Start by clearing the clutter - in your closets, from
table-tops, out of drawers, throughout rooms, the car,
yard and garden, the garage, everywhere. When you’re
done, you will feel renewed, and if you like the feeling,
then get the books and resources, delving further into
the philosophy and practice of feng shui, the art of
placement for well-being.
Submit An Article
http://www.atozgardening.com/articles/01-feng-shui-the-art-of-placement.html
Savvy Gardeners Use Mulch To Make Garden Work Easier
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
by Judith Schwader
A to Z Gardening
Mulch provides many benefits to plants and soil:
insulation, shade, moisture retention, weed reduction, and
soil building. But when mulch is applied at the wrong time
or in the wrong form, it can do more harm than good. Use
the following guidelines to get the greatest benefit from
your mulching effort.
First, make the most of your garden space, moisture, and
organic matter (including mulch) by planting wide rows - a
width that you can comfortably reach across, rather the
width of a single plant. Wide row planting reduces the
number of paths needed through your garden, and keeps more
of the soil surface covered. This results in fewer weeds
and better moisture retention, so your mulch can be applied
where it is really needed.
~~Finished Compost Mulch~~
There is no bad time to add finished compost to the soil,
but for maximum value from this black gold the best time is
shortly after spring shoots and seedlings have gotten
established and have their true leaves. Apply a layer of
finished compost mulch. Often called a top dressing, this
layer will merge with the topsoil quickly, but try to keep
the compost from touching the plant stems anyway.
How thickly you layer the finished compost mulch depends
on how much you have available and how much ground you have
to cover. Even a thin layer is beneficial; it provides
nutrients that gradually work their way down, and gives
some protection against weeds, temperature extremes, hard
rain, and so forth.
~~Partially Composted Material~~
Half-finished compost or compost that is noticeably
fibrous is never good for mulching plants, or even for
adding to the soil near growing plants. Separate additions
of partially composted material from planting by at least
two or three weeks. The best time to add this kind of
compost is in October or November in ground that will be
allowed to rest.
Soil bacteria will break down the material, but these
organisms have to use nitrogen in order to do their work.
Eventually, the microbes will release the nitrogen and make
it available to plants again, but in the meantime, the half-
finished compost has the effect of starving rather than
feeding any growing plants.
~~Hay and Straw~~
Apply a layer of straw or hay once plants are beyond
seedling stage. The timing also depends on soil
temperature. Since this mulch forms an insulating layer,
wait until the soil is warm; else the layer of mulch will
insulate in the wrong way-preventing the soil from warming
up.
In addition to the straw or hay forming an insulating
layer and helping retain moisture, the mulch becomes a nice
resting place for melons and squash.
Straw is more carbonaceous than hay, and will break down
more slowly. Hay often has a moisture content, and will
break down faster. Both are good mulches, but if slugs and
snails are a problem, straw is better. Again, keep the
mulch back from touching the plant stems.
~~Leaves and Grass Clippings~~
I prefer to compost leaves and grass rather than use them
as mulch. Leaves are generally acidic, and affect the ph of
the soil. However, some plants such as raspberries prefer
slightly acidic soil, and for plants that don’t like an
acid ph, an amendment of lime could help neutralize the
effect of the leaves.
Grass clippings can be very effective mulch - especially
for moisture retention, but keep an eye on it. Grass packs
down, preventing air circulation so that anaerobic decay
occurs. Again, I prefer to compost grass; turning the
compost keeps it aerated.
About the author: Life-time gardener Judith Schwader
specializes in organic gardening methods. She shares
expertise, humor, and advice for your gardening success
at A to Z Gardening. Also visit FB Home for additional home
and garden information.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
This article may be reprinted in its entirety so long as the
author’s credits and all links remain intact.
Submit Your Gardening Article
http://www.atozgardening.com/articles/12-use-mulch-to-make-garden-work-easier.html
How To Improve Garden Soil Naturally
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
by Judith Schwader
A to Z Gardening
Healthy garden soil is teeming with life: there are
earthworms and micro-organisms by the millions, each with a
particular function in making soil fertile. Like any living
thing, the soil must have food. Without food, the life in
soil either leaves or dies.
Soil life eats organic matter, decomposing it and creating
a crucial soil element called humus. Humus is decayed
organic material. The process of decomposition releases
nutrients in forms that plants can absorb. In other words,
decomposition of organic material has a fertilizing effect.
But fertility is only part of the value of regularly
feeding the soil with organic material. Humus also
contributes to the sponge-like soil texture that allows
air circulation and moisture retention. Loam — the ideal
soil for growing plants - is a balanced mixture of sand,
clay, silt, and organic matter. Humus will bind sandy soil
or loosen hard-packed clay.
For these beneficial results (for fertility and texture),
the life in soil needs fresh food. Regular doses of organic
material will ensure that garden dirt is enhanced rather
than depleted over the lifetime of the garden. Every year,
a 30 by 40 foot garden needs around 400 pounds (equivalent
to 10 bales of hay) of organic material, but it doesn’t
need to be added all at once.
Additions of organic material take a variety of forms. For
starters, chop garden residues into the soil: weeds, mulch,
and plants left after harvest. Hauling in compost by the
yard from nurseries or hauling animal manures from nearby
farms is also an option. But the easiest and most cost
effective method of continuous additions of organic
material is to grow cover crops, also known as green manures.
Cover crops are grown and tilled into the soil,
replenishing rather than removing nutrients. Even in a
small garden, this is an effective method when a harvest
crop and a green manure are grown in rotation. For
instance, plant a late summer green manure after an early
crop such as peas or broccoli.
Some suggestions for cover crops include legumes,
buckwheat, and ryegrass.
Legumes such as peas and soybeans fix atmospheric nitrogen
into the soil when inoculated seeds that attract certain
micro-organisms are used. In addition, these legumes are
vegetables, making a single planting both a harvest crop
and a green manure.
For bulk and quick growth, ryegrass or other annual grains
are good choices. In colder climates these are especially
good cover crops for the end of summer because they die
over the winter and are easy to till in the spring. For the
poorest soils, buckwheat is most useful.
Green manures can work with or without using powered
equipment, but in larger gardens a roto-tiller certainly
makes the process easier. In smaller gardens, the question
of whether it makes financial sense to invest in renting or
buying a roto-tiller has to be weighed against the cost of
hauling in compost and animal manures.
Either way - hauling or tilling - some form of additional
organic material beyond chopping in garden residues must
happen in order for the soil to function and for the plants
it supports to thrive.
About the Author:
Life-time gardener Judith Schwader specializes in organic
gardening methods. She shares expertise, humor, and advice
for your gardening success at A to Z Gardening.
Also visit FB Home for additional home and garden information.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
This article may be reprinted in its entirety so long as the
author’s credits and all links remain intact.
http://www.atozgardening.com/articles/13-cover-crops.html
Growing Organic Food
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
by Judith Schwader
A to Z Gardening
Everyone - including the backyard gardener - who wants to
grow food in a way that is sustainable and that respects
the natural environment can benefit from using the federal
organic guidelines from the Organic Food Production Act
that took effect in 2002. These federal standards for
organic cultivation were designed by people with a profound
knowledge of how to produce food ecologically.
With the home gardener rather than the market gardener
especially in mind, what follows here is an overview and
some highlights of the standards and regulations. For more
details, visit the US Department of Agriculture (USDA)
website: www.ams.usda.gov. Click “National Organic Program.”
~~Soil~~
In an organic gardening system, soil health is fundamental
to success. Even though natural fertilizers and other
inputs are used in organic gardening, they are minimized by
regular additions of organic material to feed and improve
the soil. This material can come, for instance, from
tilling in cover crops and from using approved soil
amendments such as compost.
Raw animal manures are not to be used as soil amendments
within six months of harvest for root crops. For crops
where the edible part never touches the soil, raw animal
manures are not used within three months of harvest. Sewage
sludge is absolutely banned. Crop residues can be chopped
into the soil, but not burned.
~~Pests~~
Biological pesticides can be used, but should be viewed as
a last resort. Before spraying a pesticide, organic
gardeners can use predators of the pest species, develop
habitat to encourage the natural enemies of pests, and use
controls like traps and non-synthetic repellants.
~~Diseases~~
Prevention is the idea. Plants grown in healthy soil are
naturally resistant to disease. Crop rotation and selecting
the right varieties also contribute to disease control. If,
however, there is still a problem, visit the USDA web site
mentioned above and select from the National List of
biologicals and botanicals that are permitted to certified
organic growers.
~~Weeds~~
The federal organic standards allow no herbicides. Control
weeds by tilling, hand weeding, mowing, etc. Also, natural
mulches (e.g. straw) are useful.
~~Seeds and Transplants~~
These must also be organic for the crop to be labeled
organic.
The backyard gardener who is interested in growing
organically for the nutritional and environmental benefit
rather than for the purpose of marketing, probably doesn’t
need all the nitty gritty details of the Organic Food
Production Law.
Just use the basic guidelines and act with respect for
nature, and you’re on the way to producing organic food.
It’s well worth it: healthier for people and healthier for
the environment.
About the Author:
Life-time gardener Judith Schwader specializes in organic gardening methods. She shares expertise, humor, and advice for your gardening success at A to Z Gardening. Also visit FB Home for additional home and garden information.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
This article may be reprinted in its entirety so long as the
author’s credits and all links remain intact.
http://www.atozgardening.com/articles/14-growing-organic-food.html
Organic Fertilizers: Mix Your Own Special Blends
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
by Judith Schwader
A to Z Gardening
Organic gardening involves a system that centers around
healthy soil - a mixture of sand, clay, silt, and
decomposed organic material (humus). But even when the soil
is well-balanced and healthy, plants benefit from additions
of specifically formulated organic fertilizers.
You can buy prepared organic fertilizers, or blend
individual fertilizer ingredients for specific purposes,
such has high nitrogen blends for leafy greens or high
potassium blends for root crops.
Since the following organic fertilizer recipes all involve
dry ingredients, they can be blended ahead of time and
stored in labeled plastic containers with lids. Most
gardening centers will have the individual ingredients, but
if you can’t buy them locally, they are available from
online sources, such as WhitneyFarms.com which sells only
organic products.
For all of the following recipes, make any amount using
the volume ratios given. Use anything from a yogurt
container to a lemonade pitcher as a scoop. Each full scoop
equals one part.
An all-purpose, basic organic fertilizer recipe is useful
to have on hand in a large quantity. If you’re making a big
batch, mix it up in a wheel barrow and stir to blend with a
hoe. Then store in a labeled, plastic container with lid.
Basic Organic Fertilizer Mix:
~~For use as at planting time or side dressing for all
types of plants~~
3 parts blood or fishmeal
3 parts steamed bone meal
1 part kelp meal
1 and 1/2 parts Sul-Po-Mag (a brand name at Whitney Farms
for a sulfur, potassium, and magnesium mixture, but you can
substitute any such mixture.)
The following specially formulated mixes are fast acting
and work well when used at planting time and as side
dressings. Although these balanced mixes will generally
give desired results, soils do vary. You can experiment and
find what works best for your soil.
Generally, the fertilizers are applied at the rate of: 1/2
cup per transplant, or 5 pounds per 100 square feet or 100
row feet.
High Nitrogen Mix
~~For plants that are grown with the leaf or follar
structure as the edible part~~
4 parts blood meal
2 parts cottonseed meal
1 part steamed bone meal
1/2 part Sul-Po-Mag (a brand name source for sulfur,
potassium, and magnesium)
1/2 part kelp meal
High Potassium Mix
~~For crops that are grown with the root or tuber as the
edible part~~
2 parts cottonseed meal
2 and 1/2 parts Sul-Po-Mag
1 and 1/2 parts steamed bone meal
1 part greensand
1 part kelp meal
High Phosphorous Mix
~~For crops that are grown for the fruit or seed as the
edible part~~
4 parts steamed bone meal
1 part fish meal
1 part meat and bone meal
1 part soft phosphate
1/2 part Sul-Po-Mag
1/2 part kelp meal
Additional ideas for organic fertilizers include an Acid
Mix for plants that prefer lower pH, (blueberry,
strawberry, potato, tomato and squash); or a Super Grow Mix
that has two ingredients for each nutrient, releasing at
different rates.
About the Author:
Life-time gardener Judith Schwader specializes in organic gardening methods. She shares expertise, humor, and advice for your gardening success at A to Z Gardening. Also visit FB Home for additional home and garden information.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
http://www.atozgardening.com/articles/15-organic-fertilizer-recipes.html
Flower Drying Made Simple
by Villette Mastase
http://www.flowerki.com
The first step in flower drying is to make sure the right
flower for the right project is chosen. A basic rule is
that the faster a flower is dried, the more vibrant the
color will remain. However, it must be remembered that the
more heat applied, the more the flower will shrink. By
bearing in mind these factors, the best method can easily
be determined.
Depending on your purpose, there are three main methods of
flower drying to choose from. The application of silica gel
(or proper alternate), drying by use of a dehydrator, or
the absorption of glycerin are the most efficient ways for
turning that blossom into a craft.
Since silica is actually a form of sand, you can substitute
it with clean sand, borax or cornmeal. To use this method,
you will need a dry container with a lid. First, line the
bottom of the container with a thin layer of the gel. Next,
place the flower in the container while adding more gel
around the bloom in order to avoid crushing it. Once it is
secure, sprinkle some gel over top and cover it with the
lid. Let it sit for about a week or until completely dry.
When it is ready, a small paint brush can be used to remove
the silica.
Using a dehydrator is your best bet if you are making
potpourri. This is the speediest method as well as the
most efficient for preserving fragrance. Remember, the more
heat, the quicker your flower will dry.
If you want to keep your flower pliable when it dries, try
using glycerin. Glycerin is used by having the flower
absorb the glycerin. Sometimes glycerin will turn the
leaves and the flower another color.
http://www.atozgardening.com/articles/02-flower-drying-made-simple.html
Gardening Without Pests
by Peres Deturs
http://www.leegardening.com
Deer and raccoons, rabbits and gophers, moles and chipmunks!
They capture your heart when in a book or zoo, but when they
invade your garden. Oh! That’s a different story. Yet how
can a rabbit resist munching on your crisp lettuce? Or a
possum or raccoon stay away from your sweet corn patch? And
your berries will always be attractive to a squirrel.
Unless you have a garden. Then, watch out. Those adorable
bunnies and possums are not quite as cute after they’ve
munched away at the lettuce and stole most of your carrots.
Rest assured, however, there are safe, animal friendly ways
to keep those furry critters from invading and destroying
your garden. For many years, gardeners used pesticides and
other poisons on their fruits and vegetables to deter
animals.These would later be proven to be detrimental to
the people who later washed and ate them.
Birds are probably one of the easiest garden predators
to discourage. They pose slightly less of a threat to a
garden than other animals, but most still prefer to
discourage their presence.Accomplishing that is really quite
simple because birds are easily scared and have many enemies
in nature. A thin, nylon humming line which will vibrate in
even the gentlest wind is an easy solution to a bird
infestation. This is a particularly good deterrent near
strawberry patches, and though humans won~t hear the humming
of the line, the birds will.
A humming line made of very thin nylon will vibrate and
hum in even the slightest breeze. It’s inaudible to us,
but heard by the birds. This works well with strawberries.
Unusual noises can be created with aluminum pie plates
loosely tied to stakes or leaving a radio on at night.
Installing some blinking lights, hawk-like balloons or
kites that mimic larger birds can also be effective.
And of course, the two old stand-bys - scarecrows, or a dog
or cat ~ always help out with the bird problem. Because
birds and other animals need a source of drinking water,
eliminate any standing water near the garden.
Night time is prowl time for the four-legged pests. Each
animal has a distinctive footprint and each has its favorite
delicacy to munch on. Many of them, such as deer and
raccoons, can be eliminated by putting an electric fence or
other barrier around the garden. Pocket gophers can be
stopped by putting a fence made of hardware cloth two feet
below and two feet above the surface of the garden.
A chicken-wire fence works the best for rabbits, but the
holes need to be 1, or smaller. Those young rabbits aren’t
very big. To keep the mice from eating your fruit tree’s
bark, sink wire mesh or hardware cloth several inches
into the ground around the fruit trees.
To keep mice from destroying fruit trees, put wire mesh or a
quarter-inch of hardware cloth at least several inches into
the ground.
Possums will only eat one or two, and then come back later
for another one. Some animals will only be eliminated by
being caught in a trap. After they are caught be sure to
take them at least one mile away and release them in a
natural habitat. And, be careful not to get bitten. Rabies
is a reality among wild animals.
With some thought and a little work, you can keep those
furry friends from turning into garden gremlins.
http://www.atozgardening.com/articles/04-gardening-without-pests.html
http://www.dirtdoctor.com/organic/garden/view_org_research/id/31/
Baking Soda
Baking soda is one of the first alternative products that had university research. Most organic products are available now and the toxic chemicals simply are never needed. They don’t work well anyway.
The research done on baking soda is from Cornell University. Dr. Kenneth Horst and his staff discovered that baking soda mixed with water and sprayed on plants gave very effective fungal disease control. They later discovered the closely related product potassium bicarbonate worked even better and of course the potassium in many parts of the world is more beneficial to the soil than the sodium in baking soda. They also did research on combining products with horticultural oil and also had good to excellent results. In most cases results were as good or even better than toxic fungicides that are on the market. This is a good example though of EPA registered products now that contain potassium bicarbonate that are still ignored by the people that recommend the toxic chemicals. By the way, cornmeal juice works even better. We’ll get the research done someday. In the meantime we just use this wonderful food material with great success.
http://www.dirtdoctor.com/organic/garden/view_org_research/id/32/
Cornmeal
Cornmeal has become one of the staple products that I talk about every day as I’m sure you know but it is confusing. The confusion comes in because there is grocery store cornmeal, horticultural cornmeal, whole ground cornmeal and corn gluten meal.
The research on cornmeal was done by the Texas A&M Research Station in Stephenville. Dr. Joe McFarland headed that work before his retirement. The discovery of cornmeal’s fungal disease control came about by noticing the peanut crops. Under research observation at the research center these crops didn’t have fungal diseases when they followed the corn planting in rotation. Lab tests related to that later discovered the beneficial organisms in cornmeal were as effective or more than chemical fungicides at shutting down fungal diseases. That’s why we now recommend it for use on brown patch in St. Augustine grass, damping off in seedlings, black spot on roses and many other fungal diseases. Dr. Nick Christian’s stuff at Iowa State University discovered the use of corn gluten meal for use as a natural weed and feed. Time to put it out right now before weed seed germination, at 15-20 lbs. per 1,000 square feet.
http://www.dirtdoctor.com/organic/garden/view_org_research/id/33/
Corn Gluten Meal
The research on corn gluten meal was done at Iowa State. Although quite complete, this rearch is ignored by most other Universities. For more on the work, consult the web site.
http://www.gluten.iastate.edu/daily.html
http://www.dirtdoctor.com/organic/garden/view_org_research/id/123/
Composting with Worms
Let worms eat your organic waste! They will happily turn it into some of the best fertilizer on earth - worm compost, otherwise known as worm castings or vermicompost. This is a fascinating, fun, and easy way to recycle your organic kitchen wastes. Worm composting, or vermiculture, requires very little work, produces no offensive odors, and helps plants thrive. Only a few things are needed to make good worm compost: a bin, bedding, worms, and worm food. By following the steps listed below, you will learn to make, take care of, and use your own worm compost.
Worm Bins.
Your bin needs to be only 8-16 deep, since compost worms are surface feeders. You can build your own bin, use a washtub, a dish pan, a used shipping crate, or a commercially available worm bin. Just be sure your bin has a lid to keep out flies and rodents, and holes in the bottom a quarter inch or smaller, for ventilation and drainage. The rule of thumb for bin size is two square feet of surface area per person, or one square foot of surface area per pound of food waste per week. Because worms like moderate temperatures, place your bin in a shady location where it will not freeze or overheat. Here are some good choices: kitchen corner, garage, basement, patio, outside back door, laundry room.
How to build your own worm composter.
Bedding Materials.
Black and white newspaper is the most readily available and easy-to-use bedding material. Tear it into strips about one inch wide and moisten so it is as damp as a wrung-out sponge. Cow or horse manure can be used to lighten bedding and absorb excess moisture. A handful or two of soil, ground limestone, or well-crushed eggshells every few months are good for providing grit and calcium. Fill your bin with moistened bedding, toss in a few handfuls of soil, and you are ready to add the worms and food. Over time, the bedding and food are eaten by the worms and turned into dark worm compost.
Worms.
The best kind of worms for composting are gred worms,h or gred wigglers.h They are often found in old compost piles, but are different from the earthworms you would normally find in the ground. These worms have a big appetite, reproduce quickly, and thrive in confinement. They can eat more than their own weight in food every day! When purchasing red worms, one pound is all you need to get started.
Feeding Your Worms.
Worms like to eat many of the same things we eat, only they arenft so picky. Stale bread, apple cores, orange peels, lettuce trimmings, coffee grounds, and non-greasy leftovers are just some of the food worms love that we usually discard. Here are some basic gdofsh and gdonfts.h Do compost: vegetable scraps, fruit peelings, bread and grains, tea bags, non-greasy leftovers, coffee grounds and filters, well-crushed eggshells. Do not compost: meat, bones, fats, dairy products, rubber bands, twigs and branches, dog and cat feces, greasy foods. Begin feeding your worms only a little at a time. As they multiply, you can add larger quantities of food wastes. Bury the waste into the bedding regularly, rotating around the bin as you go. When you return to the first spot, most of the food you buried there should have been eaten. If not, donft worry. Just feed the worms less for a while.
Harvesting Your Worm Compost.
After you have been feeding your worms for three to six months, you may notice the bedding has been eaten, and you can begin harvesting the brown, crumbly worm compost. Harvesting the compost and adding fresh bedding at least twice a year is necessary to keep your worms healthy.
Here are a few simple methods for collecting your finished worm compost.
Method 1. Move the contents of your worm bin to one side, place fresh bedding in the empty space and bury your food wastes there for a month or so. Harvest the other side after the worms have migrated to the new food and bedding.
Method 2. Remove one-third to one-half of the contents of your bin, worms and all, and add the worm compost to your garden soil. Add fresh bedding and food to your bin.
Method 3. Spread a sheet of plastic out under a bright light or in the sun. Dump the contents of the worm box into a number of piles on the sheet. The worms will crawl away from the light into the center of each pile and you can brush away the worm compost on the outside by hand. Soon you will have wriggling piles of worms surrounded by donut-shaped piles of worm compost.
Using Your Worm Compost.
Worm compost is more concentrated than most other composts because worms are so good at digesting food wastes and breaking them down in their digestive tracts into simple plant nutrients. Use it sparingly for best results.
*
How to mulch and amend soil
*
How to use worm compost in houseplants
*
How to use worm compost in potting mixes
Mulching and Amending Soil.
To mulch with worm compost, apply a one-inch layer to the soil around plants. Be sure the worm compost is not piled against plant stems. To amend soil, worm compost can be spread one-half to two inches thick over garden soil and mixed in before planting, or mixed into the bottom of seeding trenches or transplanting holes.
1.
Houseplants: Sprinkle worm compost around the base of plants to fertilize. Each time you water, plant nutrients will seep into the soil.
2.
Potting Mixes: For healthy seedlings, mix one part worm compost with three parts potting mix or three parts sand and soil combined. Peat moss, pearlite, and worm castings are also good ingredients to add.
Symptoms
*
If your worms are dying
*
If your bin smells rotten and/or attracts flies
Worms Dying. If your worms are dying there could be several causes. It may be that they are not getting enough food, which means you should bury food into the bedding. They may be too dry, in which case you should moisten the box until it is slightly damp. They may be too wet, in which case you should add bedding. The worms may be too hot, in which case you should put the bin in the shade. Or, it could be the case that the bedding is eaten, and it is time to add fresh bedding.
Bin Smells. If your bin smells rotten and/or attracts flies, there may be three causes. First, it may be that there is not enough air circulation. In this case, add dry bedding under and over the worms, and do not feed them for two weeks. Second, there may be non-compostables present such as meat, pet feces, or greasy food. These should be removed. Third, there may be exposed food in the bin. In this case, secure the lid, cover food scraps with bedding, and cover worms and bedding with a sheet of plastic.
by Earth 911 Staff on April 2nd, 2007
http://www.dirtdoctor.com/organic/garden/view_org_research/id/26/
Cinnamon Oil Kills Mosquitoes
Contact: Michael Bernstein
202-872-6042
m_bernstein@acs.org
FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
Cinnamon oil kills mosquitoes
Cinnamon oil shows promise as a great-smelling, environmentally friendly pesticide, with the ability to kill mosquito larvae, according to a new study published in the July 14 issue of the Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, a peer-reviewed journal of the American Chemical Society, the world’s largest scientific society.
The researchers also expect that cinnamon oil could be a good mosquito repellant, though they have not yet tested it against adult mosquitoes.
Besides being a summer nuisance, mosquitoes pose some major public health problems, carrying such deadly agents as malaria, yellow fever and West Nile virus. While conventional pesticide application is often effective in controlling mosquito larvae before they hatch, repeated use of these agents has raised serious environmental and health concerns.
“These problems have highlighted the need for new strategies for mosquito larval control,” says Peter Shang-Tzen Chang, a professor in the School of Forestry and Resource Conservation at National Taiwan University and lead author of the paper. Scientists are increasingly turning to more benign natural chemicals to ward off mosquitoes and other pests.
Chang and his coworkers tested eleven compounds in cinnamon leaf oil for their ability to kill emerging larvae of the yellow fever mosquito, Aedes aegypti. “Four compounds - cinnamaldehyde, cinnamyl acetate, eugenol and anethole - exhibited the strongest activity against A. aegypti in 24 hours of testing,” Chang says.
Larvicidal activity is judged with a measurement called LC50. “The LC50 value is the concentration that kills 50 percent of mosquito larvae in 24 hours,” Chang explains. Lower LC50 translates into higher activity, because it takes a lower concentration to kill larvae in the same amount of time. All four compounds had LC50 values of less than 50 parts per million (ppm), with cinnamaldehyde showing the strongest activity at an LC50 of 29 ppm.
Other common essential oils, such as catnip, have shown similar promise in fighting off mosquitoes, but this is the first time researchers have demonstrated cinnamon’s potential as a safe and effective pesticide, according to Chang.
Cinnamaldehyde is the main constituent in cinnamon leaf oil and is used worldwide as a food additive and flavoring agent. A formulation using the compound could be sprayed just like a pesticide, but without the potential for adverse health effects - plus the added bonus of a pleasant smell.
Bark oil from the Cinnamomum cassia tree is the most common source of cinnamaldehyde, but the tree used in this study - indigenous cinnamon, or Cinnamomum osmophloeum - has been of interest to researchers because the constituents of its leaf oil are similar to those of C. cassia bark oil. The leaves of C. osmophloeum, which grows in Taiwan’s natural hardwood forests, could be a more economical and sustainable source of cinnamon oil than isolating it from bark, Chang says.
Though the team only tested the oil against the yellow fever mosquito, cinnamon oil should prove similarly lethal to the larvae of other mosquito species, the researchers say. In further studies they plan to test cinnamon oil against other types of mosquitoes as well as different commercial pesticides.
“We think that cinnamon oil might also affect adult mosquitoes by acting as a repellant,” Chang says. The researchers haven’t yet tested this theory, but they plan to find out in the near future.
The Council of Agriculture of the Executive Yuan, a government agency in Taiwan, provided support for this research.
- Jason Gorss
http://www.dirtdoctor.com/organic/garden/view_org_research/id/103/#
Use Olive Oil
New Year’s Resolution No. 1 for 2007: Prevent Cancer, Use Olive Oil
Science Daily — If you want to avoid developing cancer, then you might want to add eating more olive oil to your list of New Year’s resolutions. In a study to be published in the January 2007 issue of The FASEB Journal, scientists from five European countries describe how the anti-cancer effects of olive oil may account for the significant difference in cancer rates among Northern and Southern Europeans.
The authors drew this conclusion based on the outcomes of volunteers from Denmark, Finland, Germany, Italy, and Spain, who consumed 25 milliliters (a little less than a quarter cup) of olive oil every day for three weeks. During this time, the researchers examined urine samples of the subjects for specific compounds known to be waste by-products of oxidative damage to cells, a precursor to cancer. At the beginning of the trial, the presence of these waste by-products was much higher in Northern European subjects than their Southern European counterparts. By the end of three weeks, however, the presence of this compound in Northern European subjects was substantially reduced.
“Determining the health benefits of any particular food is challenging because of it involves relatively large numbers of people over significant periods of time,” said lead investigator Henrik E. Poulsen, M.D. of Rigshospitalet, Denmark. “In our study, we overcame these challenges by measuring how olive oil affected the oxidation of our genes, which is closely linked to development of disease. This approach allows us to determine if olive oil or any other food makes a difference. Our findings must be confirmed, but every piece of evidence so far points to olive oil being a healthy food. By the way, it also tastes great.”
Another interesting finding in the study suggests that researchers are just beginning to unlock the mysteries of this ancient “health food.” Specifically, the researchers found evidence that the phenols in olive oil are not the only compounds that reduced oxidative damage. Phenols are known antioxidant compounds that are present in a wide range of everyday foods, such as dark chocolate, red wine, tea, fruits, and vegetables. Despite reducing the level of phenols in the olive oil, the study’s subjects still showed that they were receiving the same level of health benefits.
“Every New Year people make resolutions that involve eating less fat to improve their health,” said Gerald Weissmann, MD, Editor-in-Chief of The FASEB Journal. “This academically sound, practically useful study shows that what you eat is just as important as how much you eat. No wonder Plato taught wisdom in an olive grove called Academe.”
The FASEB Journal (http://www.fasebj.org) is published by the Federation of American Societies for Experimental Biology (FASEB) and is consistently ranked among the top three biology journals worldwide by the Institute for Scientific Information. FASEB comprises 21 nonprofit societies with more than 80,000 members, making it the largest coalition of biomedical research associations in the United States. FASEB’s mission is to enhance the ability of biomedical and life scientists to improve — through their research — the health, well-being, and productivity of all people. FASEB serves the interests of these scientists in those areas related to public policy, facilitates coalition activities among member societies, and disseminates information on biological research through scientific conferences and publications.
Note: This story has been adapted from a news release issued by Federation of American Societies for Experimental Biology.
Source:Federation of American Societies for Experimental Biology
Date: December 12, 2006
http://www.dirtdoctor.com/organic/garden/view_org_research/id/43/
Vinegar
USDA “Vinegar as an Herbicide” Information Page
USDA press release on vinegar
USDA greenhouse and field research have been conducted at Beltsville, Maryland, to determine the efficacy of vinegar for controlling weeds. The results indicate that vinegar can kill several important weed species at several growth stages. Vinegar at 10, 15 or 20 % acetic acid concentration provided 80-100 percent kill of selected annual weeds, including giant foxtail up to 3 inches in height, common lambsquarters up to 5 inches, smooth pigweed up to 6 inches, and velvetleaf up to 9 inches. Control of annual weeds with vinegar at the 5 % acetic acid concentration was variable. Canada thistle shoots were highly susceptible with 100 percent kill by 5 % vinegar.
http://www.dirtdoctor.com/organic/garden/view_org_research/id/38/
Orange Oil
One of the most interesting specific products that I talk about that has a considerable amount of research is orange oil. Orange oil can be used in gardening and pest control in several ways.
One of the fire ant products that is currently on the market and has EPA registration for fire ant control is Safer’s Fire Ant Control. It used to be called Citrex so you may have heard me talk about it in the past. It is an orange oil or d-limonene product that has very detailed research both from Texas A&M in the field and the University of Texas at Austin in the lab. The product is currently owned by the Woodstream Company and is sold under the name Safer Fire Ant Control Give it a try. It works very well. Another orange oil product with the research behind it needed for its EPA approval is Orange Guard. It is registered for the control of many household insect pests. There are of course many other uses for orange oil and its extract called d-limonene. Just a few of the products include air fresheners, cleaners and soil detox products. Why use toxic chemicals when non-toxic food products work just as well.
Orange Oil is available commercially, or you can make your own:
Put a bunch of citrus peelings in a container and cover them with water.
Let them sit for a couple of days, then strain off the liquid. You can extract more oil by simmering the peelings.
The strength of homemade orange oil varies significantly, so you will have to experiment when using it in recipes. It is impossible to duplicate the concentration of commercial orange oil or
d-limonene.
Orange oil is a pleasant smelling solvent. Commercial d-limonene at full strength can replace a wide variety of products, including mineral spirits, methly ethyl ketone, acetone, toluene and glycol ethers. Be careful when using strong solutions since it can melt plastic and ruin paint finishes. For most practical purposes, 1 - 2 ounces per gallon of water should be the maximum concentration.
[I buy Orange Essential Oil for cleaning, and use a few drops in my dishwashing.
It is the cheapest of the essential oils, now about $8.00 per pound, or 8 ounces in the bottle.
granny
http://www.dirtdoctor.com/organic/garden/view_question/id/558/
Ants & Grits
Abamectin is the natural product of a fungus, Streptomyces avermitilis, and is commercially available for killing mites and other insects including but not limited to ants and roaches. See Fire ants or the specific ants you have.
Grits for Ant Control
We have found that corn grits work better than orange oil. Use the regular or quick grits, not the instant grits.
The latter have already been expanded. If in doubt, check the weight on the box and the quick grits will be at least twice as heavy for the same volume as the instant grits.
We find that the quick grits work much better than the orange oil which has the tendency to kill grass. The grits kill all of the ants within 1 to 2 days while the orange oil may not. For that matter, grits works just as fast as most pesticides. But, the ants may come back as they will continue to hatch. In that situation, just apply more grits.
As far as the dried molasses and beneficial nematodes, ours were doing fine until late August. Before then if a mound started, the ants would die out within 3 or 4 days. But, with the hot, dry weather I believe the we have lost some of our nematodes near the surface. Some mounds do die, but some get large and have required the grits.
My wife claims she like to listen to the ants going pop.
David Griffith, Plano
Here is my take on why grits or cornmeal can inhibit Fire Ants.
Fire Ants vary their diet seasonly. Typically they go after proteins more in the Summer(worms or dead bugs or meats or animal oils, etc.). In the Fall and Winter, they diet more on carbohydrates. This is when starches (grains) are more appealing to their diet.
Probably what makes the cornmeal (or the cornmeal nature of grits) more effective in inhibiting Fire Ants is that they feed this to substance to their larvae in order to break it down into a digestible food source for the adult Fire Ants. Their food source normally is based upon a type of fungal breakdown in concert with their young. This is inhibited by the cornmeal. The antifungal nature of the cornmeal/grits upsets this feeding cycle where the adults can not obtain their final food product (a fungus-based food secreted via the larvae). Essentially, the Fire Ants start to starve because their primary food source isn’t happening — it has been “infected” as a result of the antifungal activities of the grits or cornmeal.
Some of the details of this cycle might be rough around the edges on my rendition, but this is probably why people find success with grits this time of year. In the summer, grits will probably be less effective.
I am no Scientist, but I do a lot of research along with experimentation in the real world.
Tom Theimer
http://www.dirtdoctor.com/organic/garden/view_question/id/758/
Aphids
Common names: Aphid, Plant Louse, Greenbug, Ant Cow
Scientific name: Order Homoptera, family Aphididae, many species
Size: Adult—approximately 1/10”
Identification: Small soft-bodied insects of all colors, pear-shaped, with long legs and antennae. The most common color is green, but many species are black, red, yellow, or bluish. Adults are winged and wingless; they usually have a pair of tubes (cornicles) sticking out of the upper end of the abdomen. These tubes spray an oil or waxy fluid on enemies. Aphids also produce a sticky honeydew excretion that ants love; whitish skin casts are left after molts. Some species like the woolly aphids are covered with a waxy white coating.
Biology and life cycle: In general, eggs are laid in fall and hatch in spring. Nymphs feed in masses by sucking plant sap. These aphids are mostly females that give birth to live young. Sometimes a generation of winged aphids appears and migrates to a new host plant where they feed and produce more wingless females. A generation of true males and females appears in late summer or early fall when temperatures start to drop. These aphids mate, and the females lay eggs that overwinter and hatch the following spring to start the process all over. During warm weather, aphids may go through a complete generation in less than two weeks. They have an incomplete metamorphosis.
Habitat:
You name it. Most ornamental and fruit crops. Foliage of plants, especially the underside of leaves and stems on tender new growth.
Feeding habits: Aphids normally feed in groups on leaves or stems. They pierce foliage or tender stems and suck plant juices, causing leaf curling and stunted growth. The digested sap is excreted as the honeydew commonly seen shining on foliage. Some feed on roots.
Economic importance: Aphids reduce the health of stressed plants even further, roll or turn foliage yellow (reducing photosynthesis), and ultimately kill plants. On the positive side, they help to eliminate unfit plants. Some aphids are vectors of disease organisms like viruses.
Natural control: Plant adapted varieties and encourage natural biodiversity, healthy plants, and beneficial insects such as ladybugs, green lacewings, hover flies, praying mantids, and braconid wasps. Avoid feeding plants heavy amounts of nitrogen.
Organic control: Strong blasts of water, garlic-pepper tea, liquid seaweed, and the release of ladybugs and green lacewings. Citrus oil spray can be used for heavy infestations. Biological sprays are also now available. Plant oil products will also work.
To control aphids, plant adapted varieties, encourage biodiversity especially beneficial insects such as ladybugs, lacewings, hover flies, and predatory wasps. Avoid heavy amounts of fertilizers. Spray infested plants with strong blasts of sugar water and release ladybugs. Garlic-pepper tea, Garrett Juice with garlic, neem, and citrus oil based sprays will also help.
Insight: Aphids, one of the most prolific insects, are considered one of our biggest pests. There are over 200 species. They may produce up to fifty generations per year. Some species produce several generations without mating. The females can lay eggs or give live birth, and those already have within them developing embryos for the next generation. The young can be born with or without wings. It all depends on whether they need to migrate away from a natural enemy or to a better food supply. The life cycle varies widely between different species and may even vary within the same species in different geographical locations.
With all of their life-sustaining abilities, you would think that aphids would soon destroy all vegetation. But they don’t. They have lots of natural enemies in the insect world; more important, healthy, well-grown, and adapted plants have immunity to them. Heavy applications of nitrogen fertilizer will actually attract aphids.
For more information about this and other insects, get Howard Garrett and Malcolm Beck’s book – Texas Bug Book – the Good, the Bad and the Ugly.