Replies

You need a solar greenhouse, attached to your house.

It has always amazed me how the different plants make it through the snow and ice.

You could also consider a cold frame, they say that is a good way to go.

I loved my attached greenhouse, I was out there with my coffee, still in my nightgown most mornings.

One year I had 4 kids under 12 and a solid week of snow, the kids were able to escape into the greenhouse.....as I don’t have a large mobile, it was a real blessing.

The first year that I was here, the cooler did nothing for the mobile, it was rare that it wasn’t over a 100 degrees, but with the added moisture of the greenhouse and space for the air to circulate, it worked fine the next year.

It does not need to be fancy, enough slant to the roof for the snow to fall off and any handy man can build one.

I hired a handy man to build the one on the hill when I lived there, had to fight him, as he did not have a clue as to what he was doing and had never built a greenhouse before.

He did fine, in his mind, he followed a photo he found of a porch with a roof.

When it was done, he brought his wife to see it.

http://www.oldfashionedliving.com/ants2.html

Ants Be Gone!
From Old Fashioned Tips
While living in a rental house we were over run by ants. My husband by accident grabbed the wd40 and sprayed the trail. It killed the ants on contact and the slight residue repelled any more ants using that entrance. From then on it was my first choice to deter ants anywhere but the kitchen. In the kitchen I would spray the trail with simple green or 409 cleaner then go outside and spray the entry points with wd40. I have two dogs and neither one wanted near the wd40. It seemed to repel them also. I’ve used vinegar on small hills showing on a brick patio and that seems to do the trick. Vinegar is also good to pour on weeds sprouting between bricks. ~Jo D

Another good way to get rid of ants is to mix borax (found in the supermarket with the laundry detergent) and white powdered sugar together and set it out anywhere the ants might be. It works great!! I gave this advice to a girl at work who had carpenter ants. She tried it and came home to so many dead ants that she had to vacuum them up. It does work!! They get attracted to the sugar and die immediately. ~Mary Lou

The spice - ground cinnamon - will stop ants from entering the house. Just sprinkle it all around the baseboards and NO ANTS. Non-toxic and smells great. ~Nancy

I’m surprised to note that no one has mentioned white powder of any kind (last week), be it baby powder, talc, cleanser, flour, all of these will make ants run for the hills. I first saw it used at a campground. Someone sprinkled cleanser around their car’s tires, which was where they kept their food. I couldn’t figure out what the white squares in their parking spot meant! I tried it around my dog’s dish with cornstarch baby powder (my daughter was 18 months old at the time) & they left immediately! No poison, no worries about the dog getting sick and they will NOT cross a line of white powder. I don’t know why. At least the little black ants won’t. I’ve used it ever since, I always have pets around & can’t use poisons. I have never tried this on red ants, though. ~Kristina

My mother also told me that boiling water poured over the ant hill will kill them. Sometimes two doses are needed. It definitely works! Also, growing mint near the outside doors helps ward off ants. For some reason they do not like mint of any kind. Sometimes I even crush a few leaves and put them in my bathroom by the baseboard to ward them off also. ~Kathleen

Just in case you didn’t or the readers know...Mule Team Borax is boric acid. It is fairly reasonable priced and easy access. It also works wonders with roaches and silver fish in the home. I made dough balls with a little grease, sugar, flour and boric acid. Just put them were children and pets do not reach. It took a little while but it worked. Much easier than letting off bombs and all that extra cleaning up. And much cheaper than hiring a company to a long term contract. ~DJ

I have heard that using cucumber peelings really work at getting rid of ants. I had this question in one of my newsletters, then got a response back saying it worked..I never would have thought of that and perhaps you had heard of it...:) ~Donna from http://www.ICanGarden.com

I remember when I was MUCH younger we had a larger ant colony in our side yard. On wash day dad took the water from the wringer washer and poured it over the ant hills. By the next week they were all gone. I would think a pail or two of very hot soap water would do the same. ~W. Peter

We have been invaded by ants. I cleaned scrubbed and ran out to buy ant proof dishes. I paid $9.00 for the cats and $12.00 for the dog. The cat’s is so narrow she would not eat. The dog’s was just TOO high and she liked her other bowl, as did I. You see the bowls are in the kitchen where everyone can see them. So thinking over a glass of lemonade, the idea came to me. The ant proof bowls were just a bowl with in a bowl creating a water mote. I dug out the glass pie pans, set the well loved and pretty pet bowls inside and DADA I have ant proof bowls. Hope this hint works for your ant problems as well! ~MJ

When it comes to piss ants (Ed. note: Many types of small indoor ants are often called piss ants -because of their smell-, or sugar ants, and can be any of a variety of small ants. ) try a mixture of borox and powdered sugar. Put it where your pets can’t get to it. It will take two or three days but it works and it’s cheap. ~Joe

ANTS ON BERRY PLANTS
Do you or any of your readers know how to get rid of ants on berry plants? My red raspberries are just covered with them, and each year it seems they are getting worse! Your column has always given me great info, and I am hoping you will be able to help with this one. Thanks! ~Mary T.

Ants are usually a sign of aphids or mealy bugs—the ants tend to protect them because they feed on a substance produced by the insects. If you see ants on your berries treat the plants for aphids with a soap spray. The ants won’t harm the plants but the other insects can.

http://oldfashionedliving.com/spiders.html

Brown Recluse Spiders
Experiences from OFL Readers
The two emails below were sent to me in response to the following tips in the April 18 Old Fashioned Tips. I do want to say that when I shared the herbal remedies they were in NO WAY meant as a substitute for seeing a doctor. That should be done immediately! They can be used in addition to medical treatment, but not in place of it. You can see pictures and details on the brown recluse here.

There is also a page from emedicine.com that is VERY detailed on the medical treatment, including pictures and references. It’s here.

The best thing to do when bitten by a brown recluse is to make a poultice (paste) from the weed, Plantain (Ribwort) and apply to the bite. Keep renewing with fresh plant. I always make a paste of charcoal powder and apply to any spider bite as soon as possible. It may be well to alternately apply charcoal with the plantain. ~Cherie, Center for Herbal Studies

Just so people are aware, the brown recluse spider has a much larger territory than the map on the link shows. We have them in Colorado as well. Our friends daughter was bitten on the face while sleeping on the living room floor. They are an extremely nasty and painful bite just as Michelle described. They are nothing to fool around with! ~Valerie

I would recommend using tea tree oil for spider bites, even those of the brown recluse (but get immediate medical attention as well). A local radio celebrity got bitten once—we should definitely use caution when visiting unfamiliar areas. These arachnids are probably more common than you think. The Australians even use tea tree oil on snake bites, and since they also have a lot of other deadly creatures, it’s fitting that the tea tree (Melaleuca alternifolia) only grows there. The oil belongs in every first aid kit, as it kills bacteria and fungi (but it’s only for external use). So watch out for those fiddle back (recluse) and red hourglass (black widow) spiders, and have a safe spring! ~Brent

Valerie states an the April 18th OFTs that the map is wrong. I wonder if the little girl had been bitten by a Hobo spider (pictures & info. here), which is a “cousin” of the BR. Where as the Recluse has a more light-coffee colored abdomen, the Hobo has dark brown and black striping/spotting. There are folks who swear that the agressive spiders up here in Washington are BRs, but they’re actually Hobos. I have battled quite a few in my house, and they are intelligent, agressive, and have a definite lack of fear (I once had one charge after me!). You can purchase traps and those help (www.family-protection.com is listed on the back of the info slip that was included.) The info sheet states about the Hobo: “The hobo spider is a fast moving, moderately large (14-16mm) brown spider, wtih a chevron-like marking on the dorsal abdomen, WITHOUT rings on the legs....” Also, my family “bombs” the house every summer, which is the time of the most bites. (Want to see something gross? Do that, then count how many poisonous spiders you have living with you! ) We use a general fogger that takes care of fleas, silverfish, spiders... anything you have. We started after adopting a cat with a flea problem, and after one look at the spider remains... I haven’t stopped!

Also, it claims that Sac Spiders (picture and info. here) are found in many parts of the US, and are “probably responsible for most “Brown Recluse” bites reported in certain parts of the country.” Although, I do not know what parts they are refering to. They are smaller (9-12mm) and are yellowish and prefer to live amongst plants, but sometimes are found in houses.

I used to be afraid of spiders... now I’m just afraid of CERTAIN spiders. ~Thank you, Selena

Second, a few words about the tips given for brown recluse spider bites. I’ve been bitten twice, both times on the inside of my left knee, the 2nd bite exactly 7 yrs. after the 1st bite, and only a quarter inch away from the 1st, so I have first hand (knee?) experience. I felt neither bite, they are not painful like a black widow’s bite. These spiders prefer to live in places that are not disturbed, and they are small, not too noticeable. Closets, cellars, attaics, garages, undisturbed garden areas are prime living quarters for them.

I would caution your readers that the brown recluse bite can be fatal, it can cause the loss of a limb or extremity, and can kill unborn children! While herbal treatments may help, this is something that demands the best medical care! This, from the dermatologist who cared for me when I was bitten. He had specialized in a study of brown recluse spiders while in med school, and developed a way to “milk” the venom from them to produce an antivenom. Prior to this, the procedure was to grind up the entire spider.

The severity of the bite depends on several factors; how large or old the spider is, how much “venom” is delivered with the bite, the location of the bite, the health of the person bitten, etc., etc.

Mine was a bad bite. I received shots every other day for a month, and was put on total bed rest during that time. In spite of the best care, I still lost a lot of tissue. The bite kills all the tissue around it, and, in the worst cases, can get into one’s bloodstream and do even worse damage. The second bite was not nearly as severe, but, again, the doctor monitored and treated it as aggresively as the first.

There was such trauma to that area of my body, that a year after the 2nd bite, more blisters appeared, and, of course, I thought that it was a third bite. Instead, it was an outbreak of herpes, which we all carry, but normally lies dormant. In periods of stress, it can manifest itself outside the body, in this form, blisters at the site of past trauma. A few years later, that same knee had to be replaced. I do not know if the bites caused any weakening to the tissues of the knee, which eventually tore, requiring first laproscopic surgery and then total replacement, but I wouldn’t doubt it.

So, if you’ve read this far, please do not just report on herbal remedies for this spider’s bite. While a bite from a black widow is very painful, and can cause severe stomach upset, it is rarely fatal. The brown recluse’s bite is far worse, and should not be taken as less than VERY SERIOUS. ~Becky

http://oldfashionedliving.com/moths.html

Eleminating Pantry Pests
by Brenda Hyde
We all get them at one time of another-pantry pests-Indian meal moths, grain/flour beetles and many other tiny bugs that infiltrate our pantries, cupboards and storage areas.

Pantry moths most likely got into your house with some type of purchased food. They are found in flour, dog food, biscuits, pasta, cereal, dried beans, bread, spices, cookies and very often in bird seed, because it’s not regulated the same as food. Store birdseed, dog food and that type of thing in a shed or garage if possible. Many times the eggs hatch after you bring these items home, and before you realize it, you have a problem.

The larva are very small, not much bigger than a piece of rice. The moths are small too, but easier to see and identify. If you see small moths flying around, especially near or in your cupboards or pantry, then you need to start searching! Look everywhere—grains, nuts, spices, dried peppers, and even things you wouldn’t consider suspect. If you find it, you’ll know. Most likely you’ll see webbing, or larva. If you throw out that item—outside in the trash-and use a few of the following tips you may get on top of it quickly. A note on the Indian meal moth-—they may not be limited to kitchen areas if you’ve had them for awhile. Check all dark places for the webbing.

Pantry Pest Trap Traps: Buy non-toxic moth traps that use pheromones to lure the moths. One trap per room is all you need-more than that will confuse the moths and it won’t be effective. Usually this method will work if combined with cleaning and finding the source of the moths.

Alternative trap: Mix boric acid with cornmeal-at a 1 to 3 ratio. Place mixture in jar lids or washed tuna cans in pantries and cupboards. Keep this away from kids and pets.

Clean: Remove everything from cupboards or pantries. Vacuum out every nook and cranny-top and bottom! Take the vacuum outside, remove the bag, and place it in a garbage bag. Tie and place in the trash can-—don’t keep it near the door. Afterwards, wipe down the cabinets with a vinegar solution. Use a sponge or a rag, but make sure it’s really saturated. You want to get in all the crooks and crannies.

Essential oils: consider washing everything down once a month or so, and putting cotton balls with 10 to 15 drops of Eucalyptus essential oil in the corners of the cupboards, pantry and closets.

Extreme cases: IF your moth infestation is really bad, you will need to throw out all items made of grain and the other things we’ve talked about today. Get rid of it all and clean, clean, clean. I came close to having to do this, but managed to limit it to one cupboard that I knew was the problem. I also had them in the basement and discovered it was birdseed I was storing. I now store that in the garage in a large can with a tight lid.

PREVENTION

What can you do to prevent pantry moths? Sometimes nothing, but you can follow these tips to minimize the chance.

-When you purchase items that I’ve mentioned today put them in the freezer for 3 days to kill anything that may have come home with you.

-Store your rice, flour and cornmeal in the refrigerator or freezer. I do this mostly when I buy a lot of extra that doesn’t get used right away. Don’t mix old and new grains or flour. Use up the old, then wash and dry the container before storing the new batch.

-Place bay leaves in your grains—but this is only prevention. It won’t kill the eggs or larva, but it will usually keep them away. Use 2-3 leaves in each container.

-Watch your rodent population. The pantry pests can breed in their nests AND in the bate traps for rodents.

About the Author:
Brenda Hyde is a freelance writer and editor of Old Fashioned Living. She and her family live in a 100 year old house and are experts at Do-it-Yourself projects on a budget! Visit HERE to sign up for her free tips newsletter.

http://oldfashionedliving.com/vinegar.html

Homemade Citrus Vinegar for Cleaning
by Brenda Hyde
This gentle but effective vinegar is also fresh smelling and a wonderful homemade alternative to harsh chemical cleaners.

Fill a glass quart jar with the peelings (remove any of the white pulp) of any citrus fruit-grapefruit, orange, lemon, lime, etc. Cover the peelings with white vinegar, cover and allow it to sit for about 2 weeks. Occasionally shaking the jar. Remove the peels, and you can strain it as well. Use this vinegar in any of the following ways:

Pour into a small dish, and set in a room to absorb odors.

Make an all-purpose floor cleaner by mixing 1/2 cup to 1 gallon of water.

Glass Cleaner: Combine a quart of water with 1/2 cup of the vinegar and add it to a spray bottle. Use as you would glass cleaner.

Linoleum floor cleaner: Add 1 cup citrus vinegar with two gallons water of water and mop as usual.

To clean ovens: Spray or pour the vinegar on burned or soiled areas. Close the oven door and allow it to sit for 2 hours. Wipe clean with a sponge or rag that has been moistened with warm water. You may need to repeat.

http://oldfashionedliving.com/cockroaches.html

How to Deter and Get Rid of Cockroaches
From Old Fashioned Tips
Cockroaches are another pest that love moist and humid conditions. It’s important to get a handle on them as soon as you are aware of a problem. But again, when you have kids and pets in the house it’s always best to try non-toxic methods before going the chemical route.

Boric acid is inexpensive and there is no doubt that it works IF applied correctly. First, you need to find out where they are hanging out, then you need to dust the powder in these areas. Here is the key— more is not good in this case. You want to put just a small amount— a dusting— of the boric acid. Do not leave piles or enough to be seen clearly. One method is to use a plastic bottle with a small tip like the ones made for camping and picnics to hold mustard or ketchup. Apply the boric acid in a thin layer in corners and in the areas you are seeing the roaches. Later when you start to see the dead bugs and the problem seems to be taking care of you can wash down those areas. Also, remember to fix any drips that might be causing moisture in these areas.

This is another non-toxic method you can try. It’s a spray that you can use in areas that are a problem, but smell may be an issue. Mix a clove of garlic, a chopped onion, one tablespoon cayenne pepper in a quart of water. Steep for one hour, then strain. Add the mixture to a spray bottle, put in 1 tablespoon of dish soap, shake and spray where needed.

It’s important, especially in areas of the country where roaches can be more numerous, to keep the laundry room, areas under sinks and the kitchen as free of crumbs and tiny bits of food as you can. I like making a spray with a few drops of peppermint essential oil. You can add it to a good organic cleaner (I use Watkins) by itself or with a blend of other oils such as tea tree, lavender or rosemary. All of these are known for their cleaning properties, plus they leave such a nice scent!

OLD FASHIONED TIPS READERS’ TIDBITS

When I was a poor newlywed we could only afford a very low budget apartment in our first move to Dallas. I had always lived in rural Oklahoma and had never even seen a roach before, but anyone who has seen those Texas size roaches can tell you they are scary even to those who have seen roaches before. I tried every trick and eventually got rid of them- where they were so thick that they were even in the common outdoor halls of those buildings. Our management company sprayed regularly and it would slow down the population but did not make a real dent it the problem. After a few months of this nasty problem, I decided I could not take it any more. So here is what worked for me.

First, you need keep the house very clean. Sweep and take out any trash, no matter how little, every night. Hang all damp laundry up to dry. Never ever leave food or dirty dishes around, this includes pet food, water, and dishes. Keep pet food in containers with tight fitting lids. Keep dry goods, such as cereal or crackers, in Ziploc type bags. Remove as much clutter as possible to eliminate hiding and nesting areas.

Next, the boric acid clumps when you put it in to the squeeze bottle and is very hard to apply this way. It was more efficient to mix it with peanut butter and put it on a small square of cardboard or plastic in the backs of cabinets, behind the trash can, stove, and refrigerator.(Make sure pets and children can not get to these.) It’s the same principle as the prepackaged roach baits but a lot less expensive.

And last, pour a couple of tablespoons of bleach in every drain in the house every night. They don’t have to have a leak to get a water source.

After you notice they are gone, they are probably not, but the reduced numbers find it easier to hide. A week or two after you see fewer adult roaches, previously laid eggs will start to hatch and it seems that they are coming back. You can tell because you see mainly babies. Just keep it up, especially in an apartment where you can not control how the neighbors keep house. After a couple of months, you can probably quit worrying about the damp laundry and bleach in the drains. But if they do come in again, go back to the previous pattern.

Also, if you have any roaches and you move, they move with you. It is easier to get control if you start with these steps before unpacking anything and keep at it for a few months even if you are not seeing any roaches. ~Shelley

BORIC ACID

I almost always enjoy and can use your tips. However, I will be forever grateful for your recent issue containing recommendations for the use of Boric Acid for roaches. I proceeded to look up some further information, actually trying to find out where one would buy boric acid and found this site. I believe that your readers may find it an excellent supplementary reading for your recommendation. It also has a recipe from Heloise that some may prefer over peanut butter. It appears to be less messy. ~Betty
http://alsnetbiz.com/homeimprovement/boric_acid.html

NATURAL COCKROACH HELP

Living in NYC in a 2 family house surrounded by apartment house I have fought this battle for 46 years! I have finally found the VERY BEST WAY! Roaches do not like the smell of bay leaves. I read this somewhere on the internet (I don’t remember where) and so, having nothing to lose, I put bay leaves around in my kitchen, in cabinets, under and behind appliances, especially under the sink. I even stuffed them under the baseboard where possible. Within a few days there was no roach activity. However, when the weather changed, I did observe some, though not nearly as many as previously. So I decided to make a bay leaf “tea”. I put an entire jar of leaves in a 5 quart pot and boiled it for about 4 hours, adding water as necessary. I then went outside and sprayed the side of my house (I have a corner house whose side faces where the garbage from the apartment house is put out for collection. This did the trick and there has not been a single roach in my house now for about 4 years! Furthermore, I am not worried about poisoning anyone or anything! I wish I had known this years ago, but better late than never! Also, I allowed the wet bay leaves from my tea to dry on a cookie sheet and scattered them also around my house. Waste not, want not. ~mgcherry

Pest and Garden Resources
-Yardiac Animal Repellent Store
-GardensAlive Pest Control
-Gardening Pest & Disease Finder
-All-natural Garden Pest Control.

About the Author
Brenda Hyde is editor of Old Fashioned Tips, a daily newsletter for visitors of Old Fashioned Living.com. To sign up for the free tips visit here.

http://oldfashionedliving.com/moles.html

Ridding Your Property of Moles
by Brenda Hyde
Emily asked last year about moles, and I shared my answer, plus the tips readers sent in. I also added a few new things I have found out!

Do you have any idea how to help get rid of moles in your yard? They seem to tear my grass up and eat my bulbs so most of my bulb flower are gone shortly after planting ~Emily

Usually moles don’t eat bulbs, but they may be rooting for insects —it might be the squirrels or chipmunks munching the bulbs. One thing you can do is mulch your bulbs with clippings from a rose bush, or other thorny plants. You can also use chicken wire or old screens. The plants look more natural, but either will work. You can also buy little “cages” for bulbs if you aren’t planting too many. You can also try planting the bulbs that were eaten along with daffodils and alliums, which animals generally don’t like.

While moles will sometimes eat bulbs and the roots of plants, they mainly dig their burrows under lawns to eat the grubs of cutworms and larger beetles. So, in some ways the moles are doing a good thing eating the grubs, which are destructive and will leave you with dead patches in your lawn. Determine how bad the damage is, and put up with it if it’s not too bad. The chemical treatments for grubs are generally very toxic— so it may be worse than the moles in many ways.

If you want to attempt to deter the moles try planting castor bean plants-or using castor oil. Plant the caster bean plant where they are the worst, BUT it is very poisonous so you have to be careful where you plant it and be aware of how accessible it is to kids. OR you can buy caster oil and spray it around the border of your lawn in a 2-3 inch strip. However, it would have to be reapplied after rains, so there would be limitations.

MOLES, VOLES & JUICY FRUIT
For the mole situation, how about planting a stick of Juicy Fruit gum in the wrapper with each bulb? That isn’t very costly and will end the mole problem as well... ~Lois

Regarding the reader question about moles eating her bulbs: Here in Virginia we have a real problem with voles and moles. The voles, a relative of the mouse family, use the same tunnels the moles burrow. Where moles hunt for bugs and grubs, voles eat plants...flower bulbs, roots etc. Last year voles ate the roots off one of my roses. They also devoured almost all my tulip bulbs. They’re not as fond of daffodils, I still have a few of them. I have tried everything and still have a problem. Jerry Baker has a temporary fix, but it has to be repeated occasionally. Mix Texas Peet, chili powder and dish soap with a quart of water. Pour into mole holes. I don’t remember the amounts for the ingredients, so experiment. He also recommends putting sticks of Juicy Fruit gum in their holes, foil and all. It did seem to help. ~Media

I don’t know if this will help get rid of moles but it worked on our gophers. Drop regular ole Bazooka Bubble Gum into their holes. They eat the gum and are unable to digest it, killing them. Our yard is gopher free! ~Debi

GOPHER/MOLE ALTERNATIVE
Lauren sent me an alternative to the chewing gum method, which many do not prefer because the animal dies a slow death:

Gardener’s Supply Company carries Mole and Gopher Repellent that uses a castor oil-based repellent tested in a Michigan State University study with much success. The area treated is protected for at least 30 days and as long as 75 days depending on soil and rainfall. ~Lauren

To help keep moles away put whirly gigs anywhere in your garden. The twirling vibrates the ground and the moles hate it. When I lived in Ohio I bought a couple at a Big Lots or Dollar store and it worked great. Depending on your garden theme you can usually find something that will fit in without looking tacky. I used the ones that looked like sunflowers and the petals were the part that whirled you can also find them in birds, stars etc. It doesn’t harm the animals and is a natural alternative to keeping the pest away. ~Karen C.

About the Author:
Brenda Hyde is a freelance writer and editor of Old Fashioned Living. These tips are from her daily tips newsletter and her helpful readers. Visit HERE to sign up for the newsletter.

http://oldfashionedliving.com/mice.html

How to Control Mice Without Poison
by Marilyn Pokorney
In just six months one pair of mice can eat more than four pounds of food and deposit about 18,000 droppings. Food contaminated by mice is about 10 times greater than what is eaten. Also, food wasted by mouse nibbling is much more than what is eaten.

Here are some ways to prevent pets and children from being poisoned by using natural mice control.

Mice like to eat seeds, grains, and foods high in fat or sugar. These types of food can be used for bait. Such items include bacon and bacon fat, candies such as tootsie rolls and anise teddy bears, butter, peanut butter, avocados, pizza crusts and nutmeats. Chocolate covered peanut candy will kill mice. Chocolate is poisonous to mice. Switch bait occasionally—it makes the mice more likely to investigate the new food offering.

Place traps along walls between mice habitat and food sources. Place under cupboards or other furniture in the dark to help prevent household pets from being injured by the traps.

Don’t leave pet food out at night—at least until you are sure all mice are caught.

Take a deep wastebasket or other container that is at least 12 inches deep. Put a plastic garbage bag in it along with cereal such as cornflakes, or other mouse food. Place it near a kitchen counter where mice are known to crawl. The mice will jump down into the container but will not be able to crawl or jump back out. Dispose of the mice in any way you choose.

Store bulk foods in sealed glass, metal or hard plastic containers. Stack bagged or boxed food in neat rows on shelves or cupboards in a way that allows for thorough inspection for evidence of mice. In storage areas, keep stored materials away from walls. Sweep floors frequently to detect fresh mouse droppings.

Always clean up after eating. Do not invite mice by leaving food items or crumbs out overnight.

Seal all holes and openings larger than 1/4 inch across. A mouse can crawl through a hole the size of a dime. Use steel wool or cement to seal, screen or cover all holes into the house. Place 3 inches of gravel around the base of homes or trailers. Enclose foundations of permanent houses with metal roof flashing buried 6 inches deep and rising 12 inches above the ground. Mice can jump 12 inches onto a solid surface. Fill gaps around pipes. Fix loose fitting doors. Close openings around chimneys, damaged house siding, broken windows and screens.

Inside, get rid of clutter in basements, storage rooms, sheds, carports, and garages. Remove padded cushions from sofas and chairs, and store them on edge or separate them from one another, off the floor. Remove drawers in empty cupboards or chests and place them on sides.

Outside remove piles of trash, junk and lumber. Keep woodpiles more than 12 inches above the ground. Keep covers on trash cans and dumpsters. Eliminate weeds and other vegetative cover as well as debris and litter in and around homes, buildings, crops, lawns and other cultivated areas. Lawns should be mowed regularly.

For more on pest control, including mice, deer, mosquitoes, snakes and many more visit here

About the Author:
Marilyn Pokorney is a freelance writer of science, nature, animals and the environment. She also loves crafts, gardening, and reading. Visit HERE to read more of her articles.

http://oldfashionedliving.com/carpenter-bees.html

Carpenter Bee Tips
One of our readers, Cindy, asked me about carpenter bees and below is what I discovered and tips from readers who have had experience with them.

I’m wondering if you have any ideas how to get rid of carpenter bees. We have a lot boring holes in our deck. Thanks in advance for your help. ~Cindy

I’ve been fortunate and haven’t had carpenter bees, just carpenter ants, so I did some research. They prefer wood that is unpainted and untreated. The preventive measure is to paint or use some type of sealant such as polyurethane on all wood surfaces or use treated wood when possible. I could not find a non-toxic way to get rid of them once they have infested. There are a lot of sprays out there that can used early in the morning or in the evening when it’s cooler and the bees slow down. Once this has been done the holes should be plugged and the surface painted, replaced with treated wood or coated with polyurethane as mentioned.

READER TIPS

In regard to carpenter bees, you can spray them in the hole with WD40. It works great! My husband has gotten several this way. ~Nancy

Relative to Carpenter Bees-I ended up pushing a metal coat hanger down into the hole to smash them, then plugged the hole. I found that they will bore into redwood treated with penetrating oil. They usually start where there is a C’bore, indent or hole already present. You could try plugging as many defects like this before they start boring. I found that plugging a hole did not stop them if already in the hole (they just bored a new way out) If you plug the hole when they are out, they will bore a new entry adjacent to the plug. ~Jim

I have had great success getting RID of these dang things by making a thick slurry of Tide detergent and water, put that in some sort of squeeze bottle, not a sprayer, and pour it into the holes made by the bees. It will kill the bees outright, kills the larva in the nests, and discourages the surviving ones from re-entering the hole and they go elsewhere. I imagine any detergent powder would do the same, I just used Tide :) I like that it is not a pesticide spray, so I felt good about using it on my patio, etc... ~Pat

We had scary wood bores in our carport fascia every year during the painting of an adjacent fence, we unknowingly left a mason jar soaking brushes in turpentine about 6 feet below the bees’ ceiling entrance...the fumes wafted, the bees departed, and we never had to ‘apply’ the toxin. I’m wondering if any really stinky solvent might do the trick...and obviously, the vented container must be spill proof and animal proof. ~Linda

I have some friends in NW France and they had a problem with Carpenter bees in their chimneys. They simply boarded up the inside opening and smoked them out. ~April

CARPENTER BEES NOT ALL BAD

I am sure there are reasons why some folks may need to get of carpenter bees, but here they are one of our best pollinators with the devastation of the honey bee population. They are mild critters usually and only build their condos in dead wood. You really need to do something drastic to get them to come after you. The black female has a stinger, the beige/light brown male does not. Unless there is a really good reason for getting them out of a specific area, folks should consider leaving these gentle giants to the business of ensuring flowers, fruits and vegetables. ~Catherine, The Herb Lady

I tend to leave carpenter bees alone. I have whole hives of them in some boxes under the front windows of my house that I will be forced to destroy when I paint the house. It’s making me really sad. Like Catherine, our pollinators are few and far between, so I treasure these critters. I go out every morning to water or weed or whatever, and they come and buzz around and say hello. I’ve NEVER been stung by one in 9 years, although they are very curious about what you’re doing. Thanks! ~Deb

About the carpenter bees you are talking about I think around here we call them Mason bees and lots of us build houses for them . We clean them up in the fall and put them back out in the spring. If we are talking about the same bees they are very good for the garden ~Doug

Editor’s Note: It sounds like Carpenter bees and Mason bees could easily be confused because they both tend to nest in wood, and Doug is right, they are VERY good for the garden and orchard. They are also a gentle bee. This link explains more about them with pictures: http://gardening.wsu.edu/library/inse006/inse006.htm

http://oldfashionedliving.com/earwigs.html

Earwigs Inside the House and Outside?
From Old Fashioned Tips
Just recently, since all the rain and such here in Alabama we have seen a couple of earwigs in the kitchen...help! I’ve heard that they breed as fast as roaches....we never had any insect problems in our home and surely don’t want the earwigs to start “ a family” in here now! Any suggestions or help is greatly appreciated! ~Corkey in Bama

They shouldn’t breed inside, so I wouldn’t worry about that. The earwigs are attracted to moisture, so that explains the kitchen sightings. Eliminate any damp, moist spots like crawl spaces, areas around faucets, around air-conditioning units and along foundations. Use caulking, putty to seal openings that should be closed permanently and weather stripping around doors, windows, pipes and any other entry sites that you locate. Outdoors you can trap them in rolled newspapers, then dispose of them. Indoors, remove them by sweeping or sucking them up with the vacuum. They are mostly outside, so I wouldn’t worry too much about an inside population!

READER’S TIPS
The best thing I have found for earwigs, is to mix up some soapy water in a sprayer...this works better than the solution that my husband bought at a local garden store....Karen Gobble

Another good tip for those nasty Earwigs is to leave a half filled can of pop around. If the earwigs are in the garden, then bury the can in the soil up to the rim. Those nasty little earwigs are attracted to the sweet smell. They drown in the pop and that’s the end of that! No more earwigs! Doesn’t matter what flavour the pop is, but I have heard diet pop doesn’t seem to work as well. ~Lor in Canada

Pest and Garden Resources
-Yardiac Animal Repellent Store
-GardensAlive Pest Control
-Gardening Pest & Disease Finder
-All-natural Garden Pest Control.

About the Author
Brenda Hyde is editor of Old Fashioned Tips, a daily newsletter for visitors of Old Fashioned Living.com. To sign up for the free tips visit here.

http://oldfashionedliving.com/air.html

How to Breathe Cleaner Air in Your Home
Copyright 2005 by Joe Hickman
From HaLife.com
The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) concludes that indoor air quality is one of the top five environmental health risks in the U.S. today. They say indoor levels of pollutants can be two to five times as high as outdoor levels, and sometimes more.

Some problems of indoor pollution can be traced to energy efficiency, according to the Texas Institute for the Indoor Environment at the University of Texas. A tighter home is good for conserving energy but bad in terms of air pollution.

Second-Hand Smoke: For children, secondhand smoke increases the risk of bronchitis, pneumonia, and the severity and frequency of asthma episodes. It also can decrease lung function and increase the risk of ear infections and build-up of fluid in the middle ear. Children are vulnerable to secondhand smoke because they still are developing physically and have higher breathing rates than adults.

EPA is encouraging adults not to smoke in their car, home, or anywhere children are present. Don’t hire baby sitters who smoke. For your kids, take the Smoke-Free Home Pledge.

Ozone, the key component in smog, has become an indoor problem. By itself, ozone is lower inside than outside. But when oily terpenes from products such as air fresheners, aroma-therapy candles, oils, and cleaning agents interact with ozone, they generate pollutants like formaldehyde.

Some other pollutants and what you can do about them:

Asbestos: Leave undamaged asbestos material alone. Call a qualified contractor if you must remove it.

Carbon monoxide: Keep gas appliances properly adjusted. Open fireplace flues. Don’t run a car in an attached garage.

Dust mites, pollens, and pet dander: Wash bedding in hot water (130 degrees F). Use wool carpet or wood flooring. Use vacuums with high-efficiency filters.

Formaldehyde: Avoid pressed-wood products. Buy carpet with no formaldehyde content; increase ventilation.

Lead: Use bottled water if drinking water tests positive for lead. Don’t sand or burn off lead paint. Cover with wallpaper.

Mold: Install kitchen and bathroom fans vented to the outdoors. Clean air conditioning and heating equipment. Keep basement dry.

Radon: Have a home test. Seal cracks in basement floor. Ventilate crawl space.

Pesticides: Use nonchemical methods of pest control. Don’t store, pour, or mix pesticides inside the home.

About the Author:
About the Author: Joe Hickman, editor of HaLife.com is a former EPA Web writer in Dallas.

http://oldfashionedliving.com/essential-oils.html

10 Tips for Using Essential Oils in the Home
By J. Black
When guests enter your home the first thing that greets them is the aroma. Essential oils are often used to create a homey atmosphere within the home.

Add 6-8 drops of your favourite scent to water in a diffuser or place the drops directly into a bowl of boiling water.

Sweet orange, lemon and your favourite spice oil are especially good when diffused during the winter months for a refreshing, warming aroma and atmosphere.

Candles fragranced with essential oil can also be used to give the home a pleasant ambience and aroma.

Other ways essential oils can be used around the home include...

1. Add a few drops of essential oil to water in a spray bottle to freshen linen or spray on garments before ironing.

2. As an air-freshener put 6-8 drops in 600 ml of water in a fine spray bottle and spray into the air and towards carpets and curtains. Do not spray onto velvet or silk and avoid spraying directly onto wood.

3. Place cotton wool balls fragranced with lavender in drawers and linen closet to deter moths.

4. Put 4 drops of oil onto a cotton wool ball and place behind the heater or radiator in winter. Drops can also be used with the humidifier.

5. Clean your fridge with a one drop of orange, mandarin, mint, lavender or lemon oil added to the final rinse water.

6. When washing down surfaces in the kitchen 1 drop of lemon, thyme, cypress, lavender or palma rosa placed directly on a cloth or alternatively 7 drops in water.

7. Put a drop or two of oil onto a cold light bulb in a lamp so the fragrance fills the room as it heats up.

8. Essential oils are used to clean the air rather than mask smells in the home. To rid a room of stale tobacco or cooking smells use cinnamon, eucalyptus, lavender, lemon, orange, tea tree, rosemary or lime for their ability to freshen and cleanse the air of stagnant smells throughout the house.

Saturate cotton wool balls and place in the corners of a room, in cupboards or out-of-the-way places to fragrance kitchens and living areas throughout the house.

9. Hallways are the place where we greet our guests. Use lemon, lime, bergamont or grapefruit. Lavender or geranium can be mixed with any of these. Lavender is uplifting in the morning and geranium has a calming effect and good for afternoons when you may need to wind down at the end of the day

About the Author:
For more articles and ideas for the home and Garden visit Netwrite-Publish.com

http://netwrite-publish.com/garden/valroses.htm

Drying and Preserving Roses

Roses are a popular flower for giving at any time of the year but none more so than on Valentines Day for which the Red Rose has become an expression of love.

The Rose, in all it’s shapes and sizes, is well worth the trouble of drying although the flowers do tend to shrivel a little and the colour tends to turn darker especially with the true red roses.

To preserve your roses try one of the following methods.

Air Drying Roses

The best results are obtained when all the petals of the bud can be seen.

Pick roses only on a dry day after any dew has evaporated. Roses with firm buds that are just about to open are are best for air drying, To air dry hang the roses in a dark, dry, cool place with good ventilation. The buds will open up over a few days the the whole process takes couple of weeks.

When dry a little hair lacquer sprayed on will protect the rose and make it last longer.

Preserving Roses

This can be done using a desiccant such as silica gel. alum, sand or borax. Place your desiccant into a bowl making sure that the desiccant is entirely dry. Remove the stem of the rose and push a short length of florist wire through the centre of the the rose and replace the stem.

Push the wire stem into the bowl of desiccant and carefully spoon the desiccant over the rose. Seal the container and leave to dry out. Silica takes about 48 hours, but alum and borax take about 2 weeks and sand can take up to about 4 weeks.

Your desiccant can be used again by carefully drying out in an oven. When cooled it should be ready to use again.

Dried and preserved roses are also nice to use when making potpourri as they nearly always retain their scent. Add extra scent with a drop or two of rose oil into the potpourri mix then displayed in open bowls of petals with similar colouring or in or use in sachets mixes for clothes drawers or the airing cupboard.

Dried Flower and Foliage Picture Art - Flower Photo Scented Greeting Cards - Garden and Outdoor Living - Garden and Outdoor Living Store

http://oldfashionedliving.com/electric2.html

Your Frugal Fridge!
by Cyndi Roberts
There can be no economy where there is no efficiency.
~Benjamin Disraeli

Now that it’s summer, most of us start thinking about keeping our electric bill in bounds!

One way to do that is to keep your refrigerator and freezer, if you have one, running efficiently.

Be sure to vacuum the condenser coils on your refrigerator at least once a year. You may have to pull your appliance out from the wall to do this, but when the coils are dusty, it keeps the fridge from cooling efficiently.

If you have an older fridge, check the door gaskets to make sure you have a tight seal and aren’t losing cold air around the doors.

Another “small” thing you can do: when you are putting away your groceries after a trip to the store, gather all your items for the fridge in one place. Then you can open the refrigerator one time and put everything inside.

If you don’t have a frost-free freezer and there’s more than 1/2 inch of frost built up, it’s time to defrost. You can speed up the process by setting pans of hot water inside. Never use a knife to try to dislodge the frost and never use a hair dryer to melt it. Water and electricity do not mix!

Now that it’s clean and defrosted, keep your freezer efficient by filling empty spaces with old milk jugs filled with water. These jugs also make good ice blocks for your picnic cooler!

Another good use for these jugs of ice: set one on the kitchen counter in the morning. As the ice melts, your children can have ice water to drink without opening the refrigerator door.

One last thing to remember, when there’s lightning around, it might be safer to just unplug your fridge and freezer. Food in the freezer will stay frozen for up to 48 hours if the door is kept closed. Food in the refreigerator will keep up to 24 hours.

About the Author:
Cyndi Roberts is the editor of the “1 Frugal Friend 2 Another” bi-weekly newsletter and founder of the website of the same name. Visit cynroberts.com to find creative tips, articles, and a free e-cooking book. Subscribe to her newsletter and receive the free e-course “Taming the Monster