answer: I'm buggered if I know, conclusively.
theoretically, a recurve which follows the "grain" of the material, whether that grain's curve is innate or artificial, will be stronger than one which cuts across or skew to the grain.
wet-bending and allowing it to cure will cause some damage to the internal cross-grain integrity of any woody material, but far less so than dry-bending.
steam bending would have been better, but I dunno how.
brain full yet?
I've watched steam bending in the making of a baidarka (Aleutian kayak). Doesn't look all that difficult, and some of the links below show how to make a steam box.
http://www.megspace.com/lifestyles/njmarine/Steam.html
http://www.rtpnet.org/robroy/baidarka/bending.html
http://www.allwoodwork.com/article/woodwork/methods_of_bending_wood.htm
http://www.primitiveways.com/bending.html
Lots easier than you might think, especially for a thin project like yours.
Use a piece of plastic plumbing pipe, (PVC or CPVC), of the appropriate length and diameter for the project. Set it up with a little pitch to drain the condensate out, and appropriate bridging to elevate the workpiece above the trickle of condensate. Seal one end with a glue-on fitting. On the other end, make preparations for the stock to be steamed by preparing a tube to introduce the steam from a standard teapot. Seal that end losely with a rag.
After the piece has been steamed for the required length of time, remove it, (Hot!), and apply it to the bending form immediately, with quick clamping action. I would suggest experimenting with short sections to determine steam times and workability timing.