I know how Norm Abram would do it. What's wrong with his technique?
Basically, cut the curve you want in a piece of plywood, place the planed strips in the kerf, and clamp. If one piece of plywood is not sufficient, duplicate the cut on additional pieces, and make an assembly.
You might want to use wax paper, aluminum foil, or plastic to keep the glue from sticking to the plywood.
the problem is that each of the pieces must be tapered,
there is a belly piece, four to six "core" pieces perpendicular to the belly piece, and then a back piece paralell to the belly
the core pieces taper towards the ends in both the X and Y axes.
believe me, if I could get away with using a bending template, I'd use it.
I understand the rough theory of how the Japanese do it (criss-cross cording and a boatload of individually malleted shims) but I don't have any practical experience doing it.
One additional item to note:
Offset the outer radius of your clamping jig to take into account the desired thickness of the finished workpiece so the curve faces of the jig will apply even pressure to the clamped work over its entire length, ensuring maximum contact between the layers of the lamination.