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From Iron Curtain to Golden Arches (Fifteen years of Russian happy meals)
The Weekly Standard ^ | February 28, 2004 | Arnold Beichman

Posted on 02/21/2005 1:46:11 PM PST by RWR8189

MCDONALD'S IS CELEBRATING ITS 15TH anniversary in Russia. Its sales have risen steadily, reaching $310 million in 2004. The company reports that it is serving more than 200,000 customers daily in more than a hundred Russian locations. Well, three cheers for McDonald's, but what's the big deal?

Why is McDonald's such a success when all they're selling is a Russian staple, a kotlety as they call it? It was once a puzzle to me, but there's a story behind this McDonald's success story.

Some years ago I was staying at one of Moscow's most luxurious hotels, just built by private German investors, called the Mezhdunarodnaya (International). A beautiful lobby, sumptuous furnishings, and, for the interested, lovely ladies circulating about. And high above the lobby was some kind of huge cuckoo clock which yapped out the time, while little dummy creatures marched round and round and then shut themselves down.

I was a member of a group tour organized by the World Media Association to interview leading Soviet political personalities. We were asked to take our lunches in the hotel dining room, where one could conduct private conversations without concern that you would be overheard because the tables were suitably separated. You didn't order lunch. It was a fixed menu, dish after dish, five courses--soup, main course, salad, dessert, and beverage.

Another member of our group was the distinguished scholar of Russian history Richard Pipes, at present a Harvard professor emeritus. While Professor Pipes is a relaxed observer of Jewish laws of kashruth, he is careful about what he eats. He does not eat anything to do with pigs. So when the waiter plopped down--literally--two plates with a gray-looking meat slab, Pipes inquired of the waiter, in Russian:

"What meat is this?"

"Ya niznayu, I don't know," snapped the waiter with a shrug and walked off.

Fast forward to 1991. I am in a taxicab heading to downtown Moscow with a Russian friend. We pass one of the first McDonald's outlets, and there's a line around the block. And so I ask my Russian friend, Why is there such a line for McDonald's when all that's being served is the kotlety? He explained:

First, no tipping.

Second, service is almost instantaneous.

Third, it's American, so the hamburgers can be trusted.

Fourth, terrific French fries.

But the most important reason was the fifth: When the customer forked over his rubles, the cashier said, and with a smile: Spasibo. Thank you. There was no tossing the food at the customer as was the case at the fancy-schmancy Hotel Mezhdunarodnaya. Courteous service was something unheard of in the Soviet days and during the perestroika transition to capitalism.

Today Russia is McDonald's fifth most profitable market in Europe after Britain, France, Germany, and Spain. The company now employs 17,000 people in Russia and operates 127 restaurants in 37 cities west of the Urals.

The first McDonald's opened in Moscow's Pushkin Square in 1990. A record 30,000 people lined up for blocks to get in on its first day of business. And all that was being sold, at a price almost equivalent to a day's wages, was a kotlety. But ah, the French fries. Or as they call it in Russian, "kartofel fri," served with a smile.

 

 

Arnold Beichman, a Hoover Institution research fellow, is a columnist for the Washington Times.


TOPICS: Business/Economy; Crime/Corruption; Editorial; News/Current Events; Politics/Elections; Russia
KEYWORDS: anniversary; arnoldbeichman; goldenarches; happymeals; ironcurtain; mcdonalds; russia; sovietunion; ussr; weeklystandard
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1 posted on 02/21/2005 1:46:15 PM PST by RWR8189
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To: RWR8189

Interesting the Russian would use the german word for potato in their word for french fry.


2 posted on 02/21/2005 1:53:44 PM PST by defenderoftheflag
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To: defenderoftheflag
I love the McDonald's restaurants in France.

Not only can you get a decent espresso, but a big bottle of Heiniken as well.

Beer and wine at McDonald's is probably the best evidence of France's cultural superiority.

Oh, and they have proper, clean bathrooms too. Not the squat thingies you see in much of Europe.

3 posted on 02/21/2005 2:05:19 PM PST by billorites (freepo ergo sum)
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To: defenderoftheflag

I am certain that learning Russian is far easier if you already know French and/or German. There are many examples of words in Russian and English that share a common origin; I suspect that not all of them were passed along through French and German. Example: "bleach" in English is clearly related to "whitener" in Slavic language(s), e.g., Russian.


4 posted on 02/21/2005 2:24:05 PM PST by Tax Government (Boycott and defeat the Legacy Media. Become a monthly contributor to FR.)
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To: defenderoftheflag
"Interesting the Russian would use the German word for potato"
That's how potatoes were introduced into Russia at the end of 18th century. The peasants at first tried to collect the berries (which are poisonous) instead of tubers, and there were riots about "government officials trying to poison the people" - potato riots. After some sense had been beaten into them by military detachments sent to restore order, potatoes became a staple. There are many other German loanwords there, with similar provenance of foreign introduction, for example locksmith = schlusser(sp?) ='slesar', including a lot of technical terminology. Even medieval suit of plate armor "pantsyr'" closely resembles German 'Panzer', doesn't it?
5 posted on 02/21/2005 3:27:54 PM PST by GSlob
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To: GSlob; defenderoftheflag

That's also because many of the potato farmers in Russia were German as well.


6 posted on 02/21/2005 4:48:13 PM PST by Clemenza (Alcohol Tobacco & Firearms: The Other Holy Trinity)
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To: defenderoftheflag

Unlike the French, the Russians have proven willing to borrow words. Pronounce the letters and a grocery store sounds like "Supermarket"; a phamacy shop tracks the German "Apotika".

And that's about the extent of my Russian.


7 posted on 02/21/2005 6:23:34 PM PST by PAR35
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To: RWR8189

If you try to read the Russian classics, it helps to have at least two years of French and German, because the novels include many phrases in those foreign languages, including quotations from French and German literature and philosophers. This is because the educated classes in the 1800's, in the years in which Tolstoy, Dostoevsky, Pushkin and Gogol were writing their masterpieces, were conversant in French and German.


8 posted on 02/21/2005 8:26:56 PM PST by Ciexyz (I use the term Blue Cities, not Blue States. PA is red except for Philly, Pgh & Erie)
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To: RWR8189; Destro; A. Pole; MarMema; GarySpFc; Lion in Winter; RusIvan; eluminate; Poohbah
Third, it's American, so the hamburgers can be trusted

The meat is from Romania/Hungary, that's the location for the processing plant and main distribution center for eastern Europe.

Six: It's a (well was) prestige item that only the rich could afford and showed it off.

Actually you can't compare a well made kakleta with onions and garlic and other spices to that lifeless slab of reprocessed meat flavored cardboard.

McDonalds was quick to get there as something "new" and from the West before the Iron Curtain came down. That is their number one core competancy.

9 posted on 02/21/2005 10:09:32 PM PST by jb6 (Truth = Christ)
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To: GSlob
That's because the first tubers brought over to Europe were very small. It was European farmers that gave the world large potatoes, several of which were poisonous varieties and proved lethal to their growers.

In the US for a long time, tomatoes were seen as a poisonous weed.

10 posted on 02/21/2005 10:11:53 PM PST by jb6 (Truth = Christ)
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To: GSlob

Panzer does not mean mediveal plate, it means armor in general, why german tanks are called panzers. Armor in Russian is bronyo.


11 posted on 02/21/2005 10:13:13 PM PST by jb6 (Truth = Christ)
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To: GSlob
I know you say all this to prove that Russians are barbaric apes who are to stupid to think. I know your usual posts and you either flat out say it and get flamed or try to hide it by innuendo. But don't forget, what you consider a civilized language, English, is a hodge pudge of Keltic, Latin, Germanic and French. Why feces is a "cultured" french world for shit, a "dirty uncultured" saxon german word.
12 posted on 02/21/2005 10:15:32 PM PST by jb6 (Truth = Christ)
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To: Ciexyz

That's because in the 17th & 18th centuary French was the language of the educated and polite society, like Greek was during the Roman Empire. Yes, I know, what the hell was the rest of Europe and for that matter, America, thinking?


13 posted on 02/21/2005 10:16:47 PM PST by jb6 (Truth = Christ)
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To: RWR8189; jb6
Excellent. Thank you!!! I loved eating at McDonalds in Moscow.

I remember laughing with my husband while reading the BEEG MAC on the menu in cyrillic.

14 posted on 02/21/2005 10:17:09 PM PST by MarMema ("America may have won the battles, but the Nazis won the war." Virginia Delegate Bob Marshall)
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To: Ciexyz

Oh, thanks!!! I wish I had known that before I began my quest.


15 posted on 02/21/2005 10:18:31 PM PST by MarMema ("America may have won the battles, but the Nazis won the war." Virginia Delegate Bob Marshall)
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To: RWR8189
...when the waiter plopped down--literally--two plates with a gray-looking meat slab, Pipes inquired of the waiter, in Russian: "What meat is this?"

"Ya niznayu, I don't know," snapped the waiter with a shrug and walked off.

That'll cost 'em a star in the Michelin guide. But I've eaten in places like that. If you want to live to a ripe old age, never order the "special."

16 posted on 02/21/2005 10:22:58 PM PST by Billthedrill
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To: GSlob
The potato is of significant historical importance, as it supported greatly increased population in the areas where it was cultivated, especially Northern Europe. Interesting article:

The Impact of the Potato


17 posted on 02/21/2005 10:38:46 PM PST by Plutarch
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To: Plutarch

The Potato famine in Ireland, of course, brought waves of Irish immigrants to America's shores, incl. some of my relatives.


18 posted on 02/22/2005 9:29:15 AM PST by Ciexyz (I use the term Blue Cities, not Blue States. PA is red except for Philly, Pgh & Erie)
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To: Plutarch

The Potato article was most interesting. I had no idea that a diet of potatoes and milk provides all essential nutrients, or that the Irish population doubled due to the introduction of the potato and the rich nutrients it provided to the peasantry.


19 posted on 02/22/2005 9:38:35 AM PST by Ciexyz (I use the term Blue Cities, not Blue States. PA is red except for Philly, Pgh & Erie)
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To: jb6
Non sequitur: one synonym is a loanword, and was used for illustration, another (yours) is not. As a civilized guy (learn from him!) named Confucius once said, the message and the messenger are two different things and are not connected, thus my opinions and motivation are beside the point. Potato riots of 18th century happen to be a bit of history.
20 posted on 02/22/2005 10:17:43 AM PST by GSlob
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