O2 sensor...
I had a Chevy Truck do the same thing, turned out it was the “HEI Module” that some moron replaced before I owned it and they used grease gun grease below it when they should have used special di-electric grease.
My brother fixed for me and spent 2 hours explaining why it broke which is why I remember this thing..
if its fuel delivery, and you have replaced the fuel pump, replace the fuel pump relay - inexpensive part and a diy job
Fuel injected? Main computer for the vehicle.
Did he change the fuel filter too?
My 1991 Wrangler had a similar problem. Turned out to be a bad crank shaft position sensor. Both the camshaft position sensor (stator) and the CSPS must send the computer compatible signals or else the plugs won’t fire.
Either that or your positive battery cable is bad!
Had this problem with a 2006 Grand Cherokee at 65,000 miles. It threw no codes. Dealer cleaned the fuel system and replaced the fuel injectors. Problem has not repeated. It is a 5.7 liter Hemi. Hope this helps.
I would check the gas cap on the vehicle.I have driven a vehicle that did the same thing and I was advised to insure that the gas cap is tight,especially with a fuel injected vehicle.
Doing the above is the best place to start.Otherwise it could be an electrical issue and those are hard to detect and expensive to repair.
Crank sensor if there are no codes. Common problem on Chrysler products of that vintage.
I don’t know if it has one but check the crank position switch. If it does have one, replace the little ba$&2rd and be done with it.
Mass Air Flow Valve. It fails after 80-100K miles. The O2 sensor would give you incomplete combustion. The MAF would kill the car dead in an intersection.
It’s basically a sensor in a tube on top of your engine. It can be expensive, at least it was on my german car. Likely cheaper for an American truck.
Get it fixed or you’ll die in traffic. It’ll cut off anywhere- 4 way stops, train tracks, highways- it is random.
The second thing I would look at is a slow drain if your alternator is failing and can’t keep the car spark plugs sparking. Not probable, but you haven’t told me your life story, so it’s the second option. That’s it. Good luck.
The crank sensor is a popular choice.
Or, here: Jeep Wrangler suddenly dies (forum)
Have you checked your gas cap? You could be loosing pressure in your fuel system due to faulty gas cap.
If the death is immediate without any sputtering I am thinking it's an electrical short of vacuum hose leak, leaning towards short. Does the problem happen only after reaching max engine temp? That could be a clue.
REMEMBER THE GOLDEN RULE OF TROUBLESHOOTING:
"ALWAYS START WITH THE LEAST EXPENSIVE PROBLEM AREA AND WORK YOUR WAY UP FROM THERE"
Ditto on the crankshaft position sensor others have mentioned. There is also an outside chance that a timing belt pulley has chewed up its bearings and put the engine slightly out of time...but that should have given a code...but devastating enough to merit checking. The fuel system is probably fine...problems with fuel delivery should manifest themselves during hard driving, like accelerating uphill....rail pressure is actually highest at idle.
There are also a host of things dealing with the throttle position sensor and iac solenoid that would be suspect....but these should have given a code.
Crank Positioning Sensor is likely bad. I had a Dodge van that finally left me sitting. Take it to an Autozone parts store and they may be able to use their diagnositc reader and see if it’s having a fail code.
Crank Positioning Sensor is likely bad. I had a Dodge van that finally left me sitting. Take it to an Autozone parts store and they may be able to use their diagnositc reader and see if it’s having a fail code.
Back in the 70’s we had an Escapade Motor home. We would be driving and it would just quit. Found it was the Module. Same thing happened with a Chevy Malibu we had. It was the Module.
Change the fuel filter
It was the “TPS” (throttle position sensor) on my 1998 4.0 liter straight six Cherokee. Fairly cheap and easy to access on top near throttle body. It is a “potentiometer” and after 100K miles or so gets worn spots on it that throw “static” to the engine/injector computer causing rough/jerky/stalling. Like a dirty volume knob on an old AM radio. Good luck!
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