Posted on 04/19/2015 5:48:45 PM PDT by gaijin
There are over 100 pre-oil change treatments products for removing engine sludge. Each product endorser swears on a stack of Bibles that IT is the best --the others are all dastardly liars.
But see, I trust Freepers:
Is there a stand-out product, detergent, or some DIY product for gasoline-powered car engines that average Joe's can buy or formulate and run in their engine for 10 minutes right before an oil change in order to free up engine sludge...?
This gasoline-powered Camry has not changed oil in over 10,000 miles, I believe.
Sorry for the Vanity, I think this is almost my first time doing this.
Any other tips that you can recommend..?
What you are probably seeing with black oil is the result of combustion products getting by the rings. Likely the engine never broke in properly when new.
The bit if white is moisture from condensation. Water or coolant mixing with the oil ends up looking a lot like chocolate milk sometimes tinting toward green or red depending on coolant type.
I would just change it according to schedule.
Every time they change the rating letter following the S for gas engines or C for diesels, that is a higher rated oil. Oil today is light years better than what we bought in the ‘60’s.
IMHO, change the oil, run it for 1000 miles, change the oil again, repeat a couple times.
Thanks. It is not using much if at all tho it has a leak right at the back of the engine on the drivers side. I have tightened it a couple of times but I guess I can live with it.
The plugs do not seem to have any buildup. The last time I changed them I had to leave one because it was so hard to get to. I keep thinking I will get to it but have been ill for a long time and am just now getting better. The plugs are really difficult. The really bad one is the second one from the back on the passenger side.
I have been extremely lucky about finding full synthetic on clearance. I have paid as little as a dollar a quart.
Trade the Toyota in on a BMW. BMW uses only synthetic and Conditions Based Maintenance strategy. The car tells you when it needs an oil change. Sometimes at intervals varying from 7000 to 15000 miles depending on how it’s driven.
Ahhhhh, back in the Havoline 30W days.
We opened up an old man’s engine that had been on Havoline its whole 30,000 mile life and she was tarred up so bad had to scrape it out.
These days with quality oils, especially synthetics, no sludge.
I forgot to say the leak is at the rocker arms cover.
Yep the white often gathers in the dipstick tube.
I thought you just added more at the end of each year, if you see it gets low?
just kidding!
throw in a bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil and drive it around the day before you change it
For mineral based, I’ve been a Rotella fan since always. My old Willys jeep gets it. It will go in the CJ7 whenever it becomes operational. I’m hoping later this year.
The two Toyotas are modern era and get whatever synthetic the dealer puts in.
I ran Rotella in an used 240 that gave me 238K mostly trouble free miles until the last few months.
been in the business for 40+ years.....
Just a tip, during last drops of dirty oil change, add a dash of new oil to ‘push out’ some of the last dirty oil from the oil pan.
In my old Audi, I switched it over to full synthetic (Amsoil) with 50k on the odometer and had no problem with leaks. I did extended drains starting at 6k eventually moving to 12k drain intervals and the oil would only be slightly darker than fresh. My current vehicle I’m doing every 3k with dino oil and its working out to be about every 3 to 5 weeks each oil change.
Absolutely believe in Mobile 1. Use it in everything I own including snow blower, generator and garden tractor. My BMW R100RT has 148,000 on it and is good as new.
I have a 2004 4-cyl Camry with 220,000 + miles...just a WOW car!
I have only bought used cars the last 15 years and they have all had more than 40k miles on them. I always switch them to Mobile 1 and have never had any issues.
Total, complete myth. Synthetics provide easier cold starts in winter and they are more resistant to high temperature breakdown. You can switch back and forth without any problems. Since I keep my vehicles for a long time, I always switch to synthetics at the first oil change. Which brings me to another myth...don't add synthetics until about 10,000 miles or the engine will never break in properly and will always use excessive amounts of oil. Also false. Many cars come from the factory with synthetic oil.
I have taken a chain saw/mower/motorcycle plug wrench and built a special tool to remove those hard to get to plugs.
The joys of changing them on big block ‘67-68 Mustangs and ‘66-67 Fairlanes cannot be described. At least in polite company.
“I have a car whose engine became notorious for sludging up.”
V6 Toyota, perchance?
I had changed the plugs a couple of times before and they always looked good. Probably the unleaded gasoline was more responsible than anything else.
There were a couple on the driver side which were really rough. I probably could not have gotten them out without a universal joint between the ratchet and plug socket.
Getting the plug wires off was also a fun job.
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