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Optimizing Removal of Engine Sludge, pre-Oil Change
MyBrain ^ | today | me

Posted on 04/19/2015 5:48:45 PM PDT by gaijin

There are over 100 pre-oil change treatments products for removing engine sludge. Each product endorser swears on a stack of Bibles that IT is the best --the others are all dastardly liars.

But see, I trust Freepers:

Is there a stand-out product, detergent, or some DIY product for gasoline-powered car engines that average Joe's can buy or formulate and run in their engine for 10 minutes right before an oil change in order to free up engine sludge...?

This gasoline-powered Camry has not changed oil in over 10,000 miles, I believe.

Sorry for the Vanity, I think this is almost my first time doing this.

Any other tips that you can recommend..?


TOPICS: Miscellaneous
KEYWORDS: car; carrepair; diy; maintenance; motoroil; oil
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To: ProtectOurFreedom

The Toyota problem was a special case, and possibly due to improper PCV. Luckily, the modern engines that are prone to sludge are few and far between.


21 posted on 04/19/2015 6:06:45 PM PDT by dinodino
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To: upchuck
Camrys run forever if you take good care of them. Friend has one with 290K miles. Runs like a top.

My '92 Camry did the same after 333,000 miles on regular oil. But I did add a couple of glugs of Marvel Mystery Oil to the gas tank and crankcase at each oil change. Sold it to a Tijuanan.

22 posted on 04/19/2015 6:07:00 PM PDT by luvbach1 (We are finished. It will just take a while before everyone realizes it.)
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To: gaijin

You are begging to ruin your engine doing that. If a glob of gunk breaks loose and clogs a journal, you’ll have major problems.


23 posted on 04/19/2015 6:07:01 PM PDT by fso301
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To: gaijin
If it's synthetic oil. 10,000 miles shouldn't be a problem.

Why do you believe you have a sludge problem?

24 posted on 04/19/2015 6:09:21 PM PDT by E. Pluribus Unum (If obama speaks and th<uere is no one the<ire to hear it, is it still a lie?)
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To: dinodino

I really think Mobil 1 is king in terms of bang for your buck for modern cars, pickups and suv’s. There are synthetics as good as Mobil 1, but generally are quite a bit more expensive, and the synthetics in the same price range aren’t near the same quality. I wouldn’t use anything else.


25 posted on 04/19/2015 6:09:30 PM PDT by wolfman
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To: BipolarBob

The car is a 96 Camry 6 banger with 150,000 miles and I’m told just now it’s more like 15,000 miles since the last oil change.

Ehh...I’m the type of mechanic so proficient that I do my own oil changes, spark plugs, air-filter, fix flats.

SUPER proficient! Heh-heh.


26 posted on 04/19/2015 6:09:41 PM PDT by gaijin
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To: PA Engineer

why not switch to synthetic after 40k?

I think u have a reason.


27 posted on 04/19/2015 6:10:21 PM PDT by gaijin
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To: BipolarBob

I suspect sludge just cuz the girl told me it has been 15,000 miles since the last oil change and it was very low on oil when she did it.

‘96 Camry, 150,000 miles.

Engine performance seems okay.


28 posted on 04/19/2015 6:11:47 PM PDT by gaijin
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To: gaijin

True. There is high probability of leakage from gaskets that have been plugged by “sludge.” Synthetics including the detergents tend to dissolve them and people have reported engine oil leaks after the change.


29 posted on 04/19/2015 6:13:08 PM PDT by PA Engineer (Liberate America from the Occupation Media.)
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To: gaijin

Chrysler engine?


30 posted on 04/19/2015 6:13:34 PM PDT by PAR35
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To: Don W

As Don Says... drain 1 quart out and add one quart automatic transmission fluid. It will also free stuck lifters. drive it for 10 to 20 miles then drain it, add new filter and oil. whatever residue left will not hurt the engine. Change oil and filter again in less than 4K. Don’t forget the air filter too.


31 posted on 04/19/2015 6:17:17 PM PDT by davidb56
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To: gaijin

I am told that the synthetics swell up the seals and gaskets so if you ever go back to the other you get leaks all over the place.


32 posted on 04/19/2015 6:18:30 PM PDT by MHGinTN (Is it really all relative, Mister Einstein?)
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To: gaijin

Unless it’s a VERY old Camry with high-mileage, but 10,000 miles since its most recent change, I wouldn’t do anything out of the ordinary. Just change the oil & filter as soon as you get a chance. Consider using a high-detergent full-synthetic oil, and a high-quality filter. Actually, the Toyota OEM filters at the dealership are very good quality.

Unless you drive in severe conditions regularly, or have a leak and are running low, you would have just about nothing to worry about going over for 1 change.

You might consider doing a short interval on the next change - maybe 3,000 miles or so - and be sure to change the filter then too.


33 posted on 04/19/2015 6:19:23 PM PDT by Be Free (I believe in gun control. The more people that control their own guns, the safer we'll all be.)
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To: wolfman

I agree. I’ve used others in racecars, but for street use I prefer Mobile 1. Plus, you can get it anywhere.


34 posted on 04/19/2015 6:19:24 PM PDT by dinodino
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To: gaijin

Do a couple oil changes 1000 miles apart then change a third time.
If the oil looks reasonably clean for second oil drop I would use the same filter to get a little smaller micron strain.
Don’t flush your engine, you can end up with a plugged sump pickup screen and a seized engine. No No No!
If you know your engine is sludged up for sure make sure it is running at the proper tempurature (thermostat controlled).
Engines running too cool can sludge up.
You are probably probably worrying to much about the whole deal anyway.
Series.


35 posted on 04/19/2015 6:22:07 PM PDT by right way right
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To: gaijin

I guess now is as good a time as any to ask about a problem with my car.

Around 1998 I was given a 91 Crown Vic. It is a 302 and had 38,000 miles when I got it. I noticed immediately that there was a tiny bit of white right at the tip of the dip stick.

Now this car belonged to an old lady and after she died, it sat up for a long time but I am not sure how long.

As soon as I got it, I changed oil and filter. I always use full synthetic but no particular brand. Always a name brand tho.

Because I was suspicious of the white stuff, I have always changed the oil and filter at around 2000 miles and never over 3000.

After an oil change, the oil turns dark within 2-300 miles. Also if the engine is cold I still see just a bit of the white stuff at the tip of the dip stick.

The car has around 150,000 miles on it now and the engine still runs great. I still wonder about the oil turning dark so quickly. Also when I drain the oil it is always very dark. This is after only 2000 miles.


36 posted on 04/19/2015 6:24:00 PM PDT by yarddog (Romans 8:38-39, For I am persuaded.)
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To: gaijin

Drain the oil when the engine is warm (run it like 2 minutes). replace the filter and the oil with whatever the book says. I like synthetic for when it’s cold out (below zero, but for those -20 nights). Modern conventional oil is good, modern gasolin engines are clean. Many cars now have oil reminder lights, that calculate or measure when to change the oil, and many of these don’t suggest changing it until you get 7,500 miles or more. 10k is probably too long, don’t make a habit of it, but the oils isn’t going to breakdown much.


37 posted on 04/19/2015 6:27:28 PM PDT by NYFriend
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To: gaijin

frankly if you have cash its worth getting a BG service, kinda like a power washing of the engine. I know it works, the other things eh. Many people I know for DIY use seafoam. We used to use marvel mystery oil. Really depends on how much gunk you have. Just understand gunk may also prevent oil leaks so if any of your seals have problems your going to get leaks showing up. BG also does transmissions, and you get a warrantee.


38 posted on 04/19/2015 6:27:28 PM PDT by waynesa98
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To: gaijin

Modern manufacturers recommend oil changes at every 7,500 miles. While you might get a little oil breakdown at 10k miles, I doubt that you would get any sludge buildup.


39 posted on 04/19/2015 6:31:36 PM PDT by Blood of Tyrants (True followers of Christ emulate Christ. True followers of Mohammed emulate Mohammed.)
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To: rdcbn
or the Mobile 1 equivalent..

That would be....."Mobil 1" with no "e" on the end.

40 posted on 04/19/2015 6:36:09 PM PDT by Diego1618 (Put "Ron" on the Rock!)
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