A long but worthwhile read. There is so much material to comment on I don't know where to start. For now I'll sum up my thoughts with Ranger Holsworth words to his parting tour group:
"How do we thank those people who we'll never meet, who did these things 130 years ago?" he asks. "The answer is: We can come here and remember. We make them immortal when we remember."
Thanks SAM this was wonderful!