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No issue at all. Here’s why:

Our system provider pulled building permits, drew up signed engineering schematics, covered all permits with the electric utility, has a UL listing, AND guarantees no roof leaks for 15 years at any of the penetrations (lag screws with sealer). State farm covers the panels as it they were shingles. No insurance issues whatsoever. The brackets and panels are rated for a Cat 2 hurricane for lifting forces and durability.

Our roof only had about 12-15 years left anyways. When you get a new roof under the solar panels, the company removes the panels and brackets and replaces/tests it all (for a fee, maybe $2500 for our system). Electronics and panels have a 25 year warranty. If you have the solar company remove and refit the brackets and panels, the no-leak guarantee runs for another 15 years.

If you DIY a solar system, you would likely have insurance issues. Also I doubt “Bob’s Solar Guys” would be able to do all the engineering and certification work to get the required rating for insurance coverage. FYI I am a very ‘handy’ guy when it comes to building things mechanically and electrically, and now having lived through the design and installation of a whole-house solar system, would NEVER recommend you try it yourself.

Last comment: we are REALLY glad we added solar because the wholesale power adjustment fee now represents a 42% increase in the price of power. Our system produces, annually, about 70% +/- of our power, so we are therefore insulated from 70% of that increase. We are now WAY ahead on cost of solar vs cost of grid power. Why only 70%? We are prohibited by our EMC from installing a system larger than 10kW (34 panels) and still enjoying the net-metering. For us, a 10kW system delivers ~70% of our annual power (100% April - early October, and as low as 40% in the winter doldrums). IF power gets stupid expensive, we will just add more panels, cancel the net-metering and produce 100%+ of our annual power.