Well, my English failes me on the idiom but from what I have googled, this is about muscles and height-to-width proportions. This looks better to me, it's not about fat. As well as one can change clothes way easier than build a better body. Surely there're plenty obese Russians, but they're not of that degree of obesity which us common in the USA.
No, it’s more about your peasant stock - really unpleasant-looking, squat men. Sorry but true. Your good-looking White Russians escaped to Paris 100 years ago. The only good-looking guys left are your ballet dancers.