Posted on 07/26/2005 10:55:35 AM PDT by rface
Many months ago, I read a post on FR about adding acetone to gasoline to increase mileage. I tried the method outlined in the posting and paid attention to the naysayers and to those who thought that the idea might work.
Here’s the FR thread that I am referring:
Acetone In Fuel Said to Increase Mileage 15-35%
The original paper:
Pure Energy Systems: Acetone In Fuel Said to Increase Mileage
I immediately noticed that my 1996 Ford Explorer w/ 5.0 L V8 increased from 16 mpg to 19 or 20 mpg. This was a substantial increase, so I have added acetone to my gasoline for some 700 gallons of gasoline --- which equates to around 33 tankfuls of gas or 13,000 miles. I now add 10 ml acetone/gal of gasoline at every fuel stop.
My Ford Explorer has about 175,000 miles on it, and the “Check Engine” light (probably Oxygen sensor) has been on for about 50,000 miles – but it runs good and uses no oil. I have changed the oil regularly and I keep my tires at ~35 lbs of air pressure. It’s a good running Ford and it looks good --- when I get around to cleaning it up.
The Miracle:
I was driving home from work a few days ago and something didn’t look right on my dashboard……something was wrong.
I looked again at the oil pressure gauge. Okay. Temperature? Okay. Voltmeter? Okay. Hmmmmm. The “Check Engine” light is off.
What’s up with that?? Probably the dang bulb finally burned out.
No biggie. The Ford still runs good and I was tired of seeing that “Check Engine” light stare me in the face.
When I got home, I turned the engine off, and then re-turned the key to the accessory switch….and the dash board lit up as it was supposed to …. Including my “Check Engine” light!
Results: Yes, folks. Acetone in your gasoline will increase your mpg and it will make your “Check Engine” light go off.
Lesson Learned: This is just another example of the truth in the philosophy that I occasionally go by: “If you ignore a problem long enough, it will go away.”
ping
oh well ..... as they say, "you can't argue with results".... and I know the results - and with a substantial background in the sciences, I am able to recognize traps that some may be susceptible.
the results are unambiguous - I dare you to investigate your self. If you do, then you too will also know that the increase in mpg is as claimed - BUT - the smaller, more efficient engines won't see the benefits that a large engine does. I don't know why.
also - the lingering question I have is what effect the acetone has on the rubber and plastics within the system. So far, I have had no problems...10 ml acetone/gal gasoline seems like a pretty dilute mix to me. Time will tell.
I travel some 500 miles per week following a pretty much set routine. Doubt what you want, but I can prove you wrong.
I find that a small, neatly cut piece of black hockey tape makes the 'Check Engine' light go away quite nicely.
Yes, but it's very pricy.
What do you think? Between a SUV and 2 vans, any improvement would save me some bucks.lol
Read the article linked in #16, Toronto.
Sounds like it. It happened to my Escape too. I took it to the shop and $28 later I had a new EGR valve and no check engine light.
I do know that it fixed that damn blinking 12:00 on my old VCR.....
yep - that's why I add it. It were an easy answer. :^)
BTW - you don't use "all the acetone you want". It has to be between 3 and 4 oz. per 10 gal or you'll just screw up your fuel system. I use 10 ml/gal because it's easy to calculate at the pump. (3.3 oz per 10 gal). e-mail me in a couple months and I will honestly tell you any pitfalls I encounter. I put on 2,000 miles in a month
I dunno about you, but I'd go to Autozone, have the code pulled, and fix the problem reported by the code.
Biodiesel does have better lubricity. While B-100 does have gelling problems at low temperatures, the biodiesel blends (up to B-20) do not. Major diesel engine manufacturers are recognizing up to 20% biodiesel blend (B-20) as far as warranties are concerned.
Check your fuel tank cap. When that is not secure it can cause your check engine light to come on.
Anybody here know anything about a good fluid for my differential on my 88 Volvo with 200K miles? The thing is round-toothed and noisy, but I'm not going to make a repair that costs more than the car is worth. I have used Trans-X on transmissions, and find it to be miraculous (for a while, that is).
Is there something similar, to cheat on the differential (for a while, that is), make it work a little tighter? Appreciate.
By the way, that old saw (pun intended) about sawdust quieting and tightening a bad transmission is true--it works, an old mechanic told me. For just a little while, till the gears grind up the sawdust and make a wood-oil sludge. It works just long enough to unload the car....
Hey, any of you guys wanna buy an '88 Volvo? It's a real runner.....
Damn, I wanted to put that on another thread. Doh!
kinda like running 2-cycle fuel ....... I had one guy tell me it's not such a bad thing to run a little oil in your gasoline....but I wonder about the catalytic converter. Anyway, I always siphon the 2-cycle gas out of my boat (50:1) and run it in the riding lawnmower. This is all it runs on - it's all I use. Seems to run good to me.
I might have got around to it one day, but now I don't have a problem. The light went off. I ignored the problem away!
I watched an Andy Griffith Show a couple nights ago - and the "Old Lady Crook Car Dealer" put sawdust mixed with oil in the transmission to make it run smooth for a while. Maybe it would work in your differential .... of course Barney got screwed in the car deal, but that's what made the show funny.
You ignored away the indication of a problem.
blah...blah...blah...
Disclaimer: Opinions posted on Free Republic are those of the individual posters and do not necessarily represent the opinion of Free Republic or its management. All materials posted herein are protected by copyright law and the exemption for fair use of copyrighted works.