Posted on 01/29/2005 9:48:17 PM PST by quidnunc
One of the most poignant moments in Sideways, Alexander Payne's Oscar-nominated film about a wine geek's mid-life crisis, takes places in a burger bar. Miles, the movie's balding, fortysomething anti-hero has fled his best friend's wedding after bumping into his ex-wife. Alone and miserable, he finds solace in a bottle of 1961 Chateau Cheval Blanc, sipped surreptitiously from a plastic cup.
The choice of bottle is significant. The 1961Cheval Blanc is a remarkable Saint Emilion, and for Miles it represents something very special. He has cherished the bottle for years, stroking its label in anticipation of its many complexities. The scene wouldn't be as touching if Miles were drinking a bottle of Merlot or California Blush. At his lowest ebb, Miles turns to a bottle of claret.
To the filmgoer, the message is clear: France makes the world's most memorable fine wines. Miles is not alone in revering what is produced on the other side of the Channel. France would take at least half the spots in any oenophile's list of the 50 greatest wines. To drink something from Gérard Chave, Domaine Leflaive, Chateau Margaux, Chateau Cheval Blanc, Chateau d'Yquem or the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti can still be a transcendent experience.
Such wines represent a tiny proportion of what France produces, however. Demand for the top names may be as strong as ever, but the rest of the French wine industry is doing rather less well. In fact, it wouldn't be an exaggeration to say that French wine generally is mired in the merde. The talk in France is of a crisis to rival the devastation caused by phylloxera, a root-munching aphid that wiped out most of the country's vineyards in the second half of the 19th century.
Many French appellations, from Madiran to Mcon, Beaujolais to Bordeaux, are finding it increasingly difficult to sell their products. Earlier this week, the French wine industry decided on a desperate short-term remedy: the mass distillation of 250 million litres of wine, 80 per cent of it from appellations contrôlées, supposedly the top tier of French production. No doubt much of the cost will be borne by the EU and the French government, but that's almost beside the point. The damage to France's sense of self-worth will be huge.
-snip-
Nah, they're still making that. The problem is, now they let Muslims make their most famous product--French brats.
I like Champagne but I refuse to buy "French".... I'm not an afficianado so what kind of "bubbly" substitute is there?
Buy American!
"Sparkling Muskatell! One of the finest wines of Idaho!"
"Would you like to smell the bottlecap?"
Steve Martin, "The Muppet Movie"
Mark
Sorry, this has nothing to do with this thread, but I just saw the "Blue Collar Comedy Tour" DVD tonight, and there's a line by one of the commedianes...
"De Beers has a new advertisement that comes close to telling the truth. Last year, their advertisement was 'Diamonds... Take her breath away.' This year it's 'Diamonds... Leave her speachless...'"
"You know what they really mean is, 'Diamonds... That'll shut her up... for now...'"
LOL!!!
Mark
If a country's best know export is a processed batch of grapes, then that country is probably in amidst some kind of economic doldrums.
I'm sure the wine geeks will disagree, but I prefer local wineries to store bought wine of any variety, French, German, Australian, etc.
The advantages are enormous....led by the opportunity to taste before you buy. I buy stuff I like the taste of. I was in a Kroger's the other day and they had these hundred dollar bottles of wine behind locked glass. You can bet I wouldn't drop a hundred bucks on a single bottle of wine without knowing what I was buying, but apparently some people do.
Who cares if it costs a thousand bucks and tastes blah?
Likewise, I'd rather drink a $4 bottle that I've tasted and like the flavor of. (Local wine will generally be less expensive.)
Support your local wineries. Shop around and see which are your favorites. (Here's a big Hooo-Ahhhh for 'Firelands Winery' near Port Clinton, Ohio; and for "St James Winery near Ft Leonardwood Missouri.")
Actually, nowadays the most visible French export is airplanes from Airbus Industrie. However, Airbus can't offend the Americans too much because 35-45% of an Airbus airliner uses parts from American companies. Indeed, 40% of the Airbus A380 superjumbo airliner is American-sourced components.
I have not seen the movie yet but I have been to the Fess Parker Winery. The American Tradition Pinot Noir can hold up to anything French. His Syrah is something to chew on and enjoy. Long live Pinot Noir!!
I would think that as knowledgeable as Miles seems to be, he knows good wine can be made from Cabernet Franc, and simply didn't like that winery's poorly made version.
-ccm
I share your sentiments on buying French wine - I don't either. I only recommend when asked specifically. The good news is there are tens of thousands of alternatives.
In a effort to answer your question about Champagne (or any other French wine) is to migrate to a different style. There are some respectable American sparkling wines produced by Jordan, Iron Horse, and others. Some even fancy those from NY! However, one must not try to compare these bubblies to the wines of Champagne - the proverbial apples vs. oranges. In addition to domestic sparkling wines there are some really fantastically produced wines from Germany, Spain, and Italy. I have just done a wine list for a new 3 1/2 star restaurant and had an opportunity to try many northern Italian sparkling wines and have taken a particular fancy to Rotari, Blanc de Noir. Ridiculously inexpensive. As Italy has supported us in the war effort I've really been pushing them lately. The old world producers tend to do better than the new world when it comes to sparkling wine especially when you factor in cost. There are a lot more politics in selling wine these days than 25 years ago. Since Spain's takeover by socialists I've really slowed down on moving those products too, but there are some real bargains there.
The problem with trying to recommend a specific bottle is that every state has different distributors, with different territories that represent different labels and I've got no idea what may be available to you. Don't be afraid to experiment - try a red blend from Chile, or a Malbec from Argentina, or a Pinotage from South Africa. I've also tried some incredible wines from Greece, and yes both Israel and Lebanon. Australia is smoking just about everybody in the quality/price ratio except in the sparkling wine category. New Zealand is the place for Sauvignon Blanc for the buck these days.
Price is not necessarily a reflection of value. The Wine Spectator's current top 100 features some great buys. No. 11 is Seghesio's Zinfandel (CA, 92 points) is a show stopper. Or Waterbrook 'Melange' a nifty, gutsy, unconventional blend (WA, 90 points) both about $20 retail or $30-35 restaurant, buy them if you can find them!
May the market decide and let it continue to punish the French, they're taking quite a beating.
Heh heh... Or maybe "Diamonds... the only way she'll ever give you << favorite perverse sex act >>!"
-ccm
whine and dine.
a world tradition.
What struck me about this article is it doesn't mention the American boycott of French wines as a contributing factor to the decline in French wine sales. - tom
Did they 'open' the wine (a new bottle) in the movie? A '61 vintage would have to have been re-corked a couple/several times to preserve it. The cork would not likely survive over 40 years without negatively affecting the wine.
And if you can get your hands on a Jarvis Cabernet Franc you'll never be satisfied with anything else, ever.
I use them but find WS's ratings sometimes influenced by ad sales...I've been burned more than once.
I find "The Connoissuers Guide" (no advertising) to be pretty accurate, particularly to my tastes.
Not to mention the "fill".
I personally like the Spanish wines from the Rioja region. The white wine quenches my thirst like a fresh glass of water. It was amazing.
Here is a succinct synopsis that will give you leads to Google. Personally, it is the 'brightness' or acidity if you will that makes Champagne so great and if you want to experiment try finding 'sekt' or 'trocken' when searching - meaning dry in German, the drier the better. German wines are notorious for bright and acidic wines both sparkling and non-sparkling. American sparklings produce some great flavors like what Domaine Chandon (Napa) produces but just don't have the sharpness to justify the price point.
You shouldn't have any trouble finding some quality "Cava" either at really good prices. Many don't realize that Spain actually possesses the most vineyards in the world.
Peut etre, "sans merde"...
Thank you sir..... er or madam..the info has been priceless. I'll keep you up to date on the hunt for an acceptable bubbly.
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