Why France is Whining About Wine

The Observer [UK] ^ | January 30, 2005 | Tim Atkin

[quidnunc]

The French have lost the initiative when it comes to selling and making their most famous product

One of the most poignant moments in Sideways, Alexander Payne's Oscar-nominated film about a wine geek's mid-life crisis, takes places in a burger bar. Miles, the movie's balding, fortysomething anti-hero has fled his best friend's wedding after bumping into his ex-wife. Alone and miserable, he finds solace in a bottle of 1961 Chateau Cheval Blanc, sipped surreptitiously from a plastic cup.

The choice of bottle is significant. The 1961Cheval Blanc is a remarkable Saint Emilion, and for Miles it represents something very special. He has cherished the bottle for years, stroking its label in anticipation of its many complexities. The scene wouldn't be as touching if Miles were drinking a bottle of Merlot or California Blush. At his lowest ebb, Miles turns to a bottle of claret.

To the filmgoer, the message is clear: France makes the world's most memorable fine wines. Miles is not alone in revering what is produced on the other side of the Channel. France would take at least half the spots in any oenophile's list of the 50 greatest wines. To drink something from Gérard Chave, Domaine Leflaive, Chateau Margaux, Chateau Cheval Blanc, Chateau d'Yquem or the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti can still be a transcendent experience.

Such wines represent a tiny proportion of what France produces, however. Demand for the top names may be as strong as ever, but the rest of the French wine industry is doing rather less well. In fact, it wouldn't be an exaggeration to say that French wine generally is mired in the merde. The talk in France is of a crisis to rival the devastation caused by phylloxera, a root-munching aphid that wiped out most of the country's vineyards in the second half of the 19th century.

Many French appellations, from Madiran to Mcon, Beaujolais to Bordeaux, are finding it increasingly difficult to sell their products. Earlier this week, the French wine industry decided on a desperate short-term remedy: the mass distillation of 250 million litres of wine, 80 per cent of it from appellations contrôlées, supposedly the top tier of French production. No doubt much of the cost will be borne by the EU and the French government, but that's almost beside the point. The damage to France's sense of self-worth will be huge.

-snip-

[GSlob]

"Huh?"
Easy: a bag or a bottle, or any container could be easily envisioned to be full of sh*t, but sh*t itself is not FULL of sh*t but merely IS sh*t. Thus you were suggesting that the French are containers and made of something else. I expressed doubt.

[NotJustAnotherPrettyFace]

The best wines come in a box!

Or how about.......

[quantim]

Thanks for the detailed reply. I'm not much inclined to support anything the Hollywood crowd produces, but I'll buy/rent the DVD based on your endorsement. I understand it is up for Best Picture Oscar so it must have something going for it. However - I seem remember a sick film about a cannibal in recent years that took that title, so much for credibility. Guess I'll just have to filter the 'wine' part out of it.

[paudio]

I didn't know how vibrant wine industry in CA is, until I watched this movie. What came into my mine was, if this movie is true, French wine industry may be in trouble, perhaps in the long run. Just like clothing. People may still buy expensive designer clothes, but the big money is the mass-product clothes, like GAP, etc. French wine may still be the 'best' and the most expensive, but now (at least American) can look for CA wine for everyday drink.

[Agent Smith]

While most of the wine info in the movie was spot on, I was surprised by Miles's choice of the '61 Cheval Blanc. It is usually composed with about 2/3s of "FLABBY" Cabernet Franc in the final blend. It was the one thing that did not ring true to me.

[longtermmemmory]

I am hoping the renamed California Campaigns catch on.

Annoying the french is always a worthwhile endeavor.

[xm177e2]

It's not that we don't like French wine, its that we don't like the French! I'm sure the wine is great. We'd buy it... at cost. But we're not going to hand them any profits.

[xm177e2]

French wine may still be the 'best' and the most expensive, but now (at least American) can look for CA wine for everyday drink.

Trader Joe's "Two Buck Chuck" is a perfect example of that. It's not great, but it's not bad, and... it's only two bucks a bottle, if you live on the West Coast.

[singfreedom]

Only Aussie and American for me too! I'm not subsidizing that Jac "A$$ Crack" Chirac person either! My Aussie Port, Whiskers Blake is marvelous. Who needs the EU?

[NaughtiusMaximus]

Be American! Buy American! Drink American! (I don't like the taste of dirty Froggy feet in my wine anyway.)

[GaryMontana]

Even the State of Montana has international award winning wines.

I am from Montana and I will purchase wine from the USA, Australia, Italy or Israel -- let the french eat cake and drink their wine

BOYCOTT FRANCE!!!

[spinestein]

The best wine is the one you've made yourself.

Way back when our country was new, everybody made their own wine and beer using all of the best local fruit, grain, and other ingredients.

In the last 20 years, this practice has made a comeback and the overpriced commercially made products are now suffering from a reduction in sales.

I am personally ecstatic that I can make a wine (or beer) of the highest quality and not have to pay some French company for the privilege.

[Information Friendly]

Obviously you've had (more than?) one too many already!

[shibumi]

"The French have lost the initiative when it comes to selling and making their most famous product"


WHAT?!?!? You mean to tell me they've gone out of the effete snobbery business?

[fire_eye]

Damn, you're right. The bottle of Crown Royal is empty. (Tastes pretty gay, anyway). Maybe I'll start on the rum...

[LibertarianInExile]

To what?!? Is there a French word for that?

[LibertarianInExile]

And for years, overpriced. It's probably underpriced now, but I wouldn't buy French wine if they sold a gallon for a penny.

[LibertarianInExile]

No argument there.

[LibertarianInExile]

ROFL.