Let me clear out all the BS and Politics here.
I don’t care if your car runs on cow farts or electrons.
I want a better car for a lower total cost of ownership.
Like it or not, TSLA is driving prices lower. Their ASP (before gov incentives) is lower than the average gas car sold, and you get a car that can get out of it’s own way. This is why people buy cars, not because it’s an EV. Well, maybe the early adopters, but now, it’s all about price to performance.
I pay ~ 9 cents / KW here in Texas. A 75 KW battery costs me $6.75 to charge. You get ~330 (EPA estimate) miles of range for that in a model Y or model 3.
My Mustang GT with Coyote 5.0 engine makes over 450 HP, and has a 0-60 of ~ 4.3 seconds. The Model Y performance does 0-60 in 3.5 seconds, and it has 4 doors.
Yes, it’s fine when you are only competing with the other Early Adopters.
But there’s no way the grid will support everyone driving an EV.
“lower total cost of ownership”
I don’t want my car stuck on a rural winter road in CT even if it is “cheaper”...EV...zero chance in this household.
Agree with most of it. You didn't say it, but you probably agree with me, a fellow EV owner (not Tesla), that the EV tax credit and other things just artificially inflate the cost of an EV. Much like govt money increases prices in other industries. IMHO EV's would be a lot cheaper if govt got out of the way and let the free market do its thing.
As for Alabama, our rate is 16.6931¢/kWh, 15.2528¢/kWh, 16.4816¢/kWh, and 16.5846¢/kWh cents on my last 4 power bills. Our stated rate is 12.4384¢/kWh, but that doesn't include the rate riders per kWh nor the 4% state tax. Since some of the rate riders vary per month (most notably the fuel charge whenever Brandon jacks up the cost of natural gas after Brandon and Obama forced Alabama Power to shut down some coal plants and replace them with "clean burning natural gas" fueled plants), the only way I can calculate my true per kWh rate is to subtract the flat fees and tax ($15.60 for us) from the total bill to get the total usage charge, then divide that by the total kWh pulled from the grid during that billing period. That tells me for every kWh I pulled from the grid the past few months I added about 16 cents to the bill, not 12 cents. I don't know if Texas' power rates have similar add-ons to the per kWh charges.
I'm not saying you and I made bad choices in getting EV's. I'm just saying if anyone reads us FReeper EV owners and think about getting one himself he should know the real math before doing so.
For many people an EV doesn't make sense. In my opinion with Alabama power rates and gasoline prices, a good rule of thumb is you should drive at least 12K miles per year (with Brandon's gas prices) for the gas savings to be worth the increase in power costs (and other costs with having an EV). If we go back to Trump's year 2019 lower gas and power prices (I hate using 2020 as a standard because the china virus and lockdowns affected prices too), then the threshold is probably 15K miles per year. In the past 12 months my wife and I put 28K miles on our EV, we can charge at home, and being married we have two cars anyway (with the other being an ICE pickup to handle the few times an EV won't do such as pickup chores or long trips through charging deserts). So our use case is a classic example of it being practical to get an EV and do most of our driving in it.
compare all-in cost per mile. Ya know? Like an accountant?
What is the all-in cost per mile of your BEV?
No cheating - Like, don’t leave out auto insurance.
??? LOL. Your math is off. You can't drive 300 miles for $6.75.