IMHO inverters are the main thing because that's where the "brains" of your solar system is and that determines how much configuration/control you have. Get an inverter(s) that let you control whether or not you export power to the grid. Only last month did I start selling power to the grid because I wanted to first study the telemetry to make sure what little I would get paid per kWh is more than the extra fees that go with it. If my state's regulations change to make it cost me money to sell power to the grid (some states have done that, including Commiefornia) it's important for me to be able to change a few configurations in my inverters to quit selling power to the grid. I'm quite happy with my Sol-Ark 12K indoor inverters (made in Texas, I believe used to make them in North Carolina). A bit pricey but they have that feature. (Plus supposedly some EMP protection, and the ability to shut off grid connection automatically when the grid goes down, which let's me keep my inverters connected to my electrical panels to keep power to my home. If your inverter doesn't have that feature then by law whenever the grid goes down your inverter has to shut down keeping you from powering your home, because those inverters aren't smart enough to not put power onto the grid which could harm linemen working on downed power lines). Together my two inverters give 18kW continuous AC power (any time I demand more power than that my inverters have to pull the excess from the grid, but that's rare).
I have solar panels from Mission Solar (made in Texas). Total 64 panels all of them either 320W or 330W (total over 20kW). And I have LifePo4 batteries from Signature Solar (unfortunately they are made in China), 18 of them each holding 5.1kWh storage (total 92kWh storage). Since I don't let them drain more than 70%, call it 64kWh of usable storage. Battery storage IMHO has gotten way cheaper per kWh since I got mine. Bonus points if you get a combination of inverters and batteries that allow a network cable to talk to each other (so that your inverters know exactly how much charge you have left in your batteries). They don't have to be the same brand name to do so. But research if they honor the same CAN bus protocol.
I didn't DIY. I learned enough about each of the three main components to realize which solar contractors were scamming me and hired the one that didn't try to scam me. I let him pick the amount of each component to meet my needs (for Phase 1 I wanted it to supply at least 50% of my power) and told him I was willing to spend extra to have most of the large components made in the U.S. He was the one who picked mostly what I had figured I needed without going overboard so I figured he wasn't scamming me. I certainly didn't get into the details of wiring and interconnects, etc.