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To: Tell It Right
Agree completely with you re. modern heat pumps and minisplits units with variable speed compressors and fans are the way to go. Retired now and moved to the NC mountains 10 months ago. 1700ft2 cabin, 2br. I have a 2021 vintage minisplit system. State of the art.

From December 2021 through September 2022 electric bill, my HVAC bill has ranged from about $30-50/mo for the kwh of electricity alone plus a fixed service fee add-on. Tennessee Valley Authority is the electricity producer, largely hydroelectric and nukes, lowest cost technologies.

One outdoor heat pump and two indoor exchange/blowers hanging on the wall. Each indoor unit has a variable speed blower, a programmable thermostat, motorized vanes to direct air up/down and left/right and an option to use a sensor to adjust the thermostat a few degrees higher or lower if no one is in the area. The outdoor unit has variable speed motors on its fan and compressor. Legacy central air components completely removed leaving only the blocked off floor registers.

80 posted on 09/22/2022 11:30:03 AM PDT by Hootowl99
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To: Hootowl99
Awesome system! I couldn't do mini-splits because part of my finished downstairs is in the ground (no place for condensate pipes to drip). I went with a variable speed heat pump and variable speed air handler -- replacing both my old A/C and my natural gas furnace, though I have heat strips for the few times it gets too cold for the heat pump.

Another thing I did was replace my natural gas water tank with a hybrid water tank. It has a built-in heat pump on it. When it runs it draws the heat from the air -- puts that heat into the water tank -- and outputs cold air. My original plan was to let the cold air drift through our living quarters (the water heater is upstairs near the living room and master bedroom) so that my A/C wouldn't have to work as hard. But that created a really cold spot. So I duct the cold air back up into the attic. The air intake ducts from the attic -- really hot air from the attic is the heat source for my water heater keeping my water heater from having to work as hard to draw heat out of the air. It runs at only 300W for about 2 hours after my wife and I take our showers. 0.6 to 0.8kWh per day to run the water heater. LOL

2,300 sq ft of living quarters (read: heat and cool), much more cooling than heating since it's Alabama, no natural gas bill, the past 12 months my power bill averaged $119 (including the fixed service fees and tax). That was in part from my solar system producing 58.5% of all the power I needed. With last month's additions I made to the solar I'm currently producing 94% of all the power I need, though admittedly that's with just one month's worth of data. However that also includes charging an EV that I've had only 3 months. I believe after I've looked at the data for a year it'll show my throughput to be 86% to 95% of all power needed to be generated on site (free), including driving the EV about 250 miles per week. My power bills will range $25 to $90 per month (including monthly service fees, and assuming Alabama Power charges the 14.3ยข/kWh after riders and tax like they did on my last bill), with the highest bills being a couple of winter months, and the average across the year being $50/month. That's with no natural gas bill and almost no gasoline cost (I still occasionally drive an ICE truck) and the charging EV costs will be only if we take it on trips (plus however much the EV home charging adds to the 10% of my home power I'm buying from the grid).

One of the tricks for saving on EV charging is I charge my EV with nothing but excess power if my EV is already charged enough to get 100 miles anyway. I have two 240V outlets I plug it into: one is constantly powered (like most outlets) and one is powered by my solar system only if my home solar batteries are charged to a certain percent (currently it's set to 75% SOC). The idea being that if my home solar batteries are charged that much it means I have more power than I need to power the home through the night -- might as well use the excess power to charge the EV even if the EV isn't in dire need of a charge. Since our normal daily use of the EV means it can go 3 or 4 days before we have to charge it (within our range anxiety tolerance) -- as long as I get at least one sunny day within those few days it costs nothing to charge the EV. But if I come home with less than 100 miles left, or if I plan to use it for a lot of driving the next day, I'll plug the EV into the constantly powered outlet (which may result in me having to pull some of that power from the grid).

81 posted on 09/22/2022 12:15:32 PM PDT by Tell It Right (1st Thessalonians 5:21 -- Put everything to the test, hold fast to that which is true.)
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