Ha ha ha !
Sounds like you have had your share of "spaghetti prints", clogged nozzles, uneven beds, and broken filaments as well.
Yep, all of the above issues but know how to avoid them now. I am designing and building a 3d printer with multi color capabily now, so add 2 destroyed main boards to that list.
To others, there are several catagories of ghost guns. The best are ar15 and glock style where you simply print the frame and add the parts. M&P Shield is the best at this. Print frame, clean up and fit parts. Print takes a day and the rest takes about 2 hours, full functioning ghost gun. The other style is full plastic, a couple of shots and done. Then there is the fgc9. All plastic but barrel hammer and some bits. All metal parts can be bought at hardware store and there are full directions on making the barrel using edm.
We all go through that. Walk away from a print in progress, come back a couple hours later to see a mass of filament spaghetti. Warping of the item because of uneven heat on the platform bed. Nozzles bumping into half-printed structures and knocking them over. Worst is clogged nozzles. Even after printing is done, having the item split and break and trying it all over in a different orientation.
These 3D guns are not safe! If you build one, do it with high-strength nylon filament, and assemble with metal components for structural integrity and heat. And wear goggles if firing one.