But I surfed up and down that coast...from K-55 in Baja...to north of Huntington Beach.
I kinda doubt I could have a got the "19" surfing then....or now.
Huh? I used to surf 6 foot waves at Huntington Beach back in the day. I wouldn't go out above that height since I was not that good. I was always a better skier than a surfer.