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To: IYAS9YAS

There’s this really miraculous product out now that protects the finish on your vehicle from lots of things, including the soot that falls from the sky downwind of pulp mills, from birds’ butts, and those ovoid objects tossed by some kids on Hallowe’en.

It’s called WAX!

If you are so wound up about the finish on your car, and wax won’t protect it for the amount of time you need to get it washed, you probably buffed all that lovingly applied wax right off the thing. It may shine reassuringly, but you’ve burnt off all that wax and put a serious hurt on your expensive paint too, with your power buffer.

Ten minutes and the eggs had eaten through the wax and permanently damaged the paint? I call BS, hyperbole and utter nonsense.

Incompetent wax application by a DUmmie is extremely likely, too.


99 posted on 11/01/2010 11:44:46 AM PDT by Don W (I keep some folks' numbers in my 'phone just so I know NOT to answer when they call...)
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To: Don W
It’s called WAX!

I waxed my car once a month (base coat/clear coat), more than sufficient. It took me ten minutes to get home from where I was and get soap and water on it (didn't have any cash for the car wash, else I'd have gone there, as it was closer). The hood on my car had no insulation (not orignal equipment, and I didn't add any), so all the heat from the sun on the top (high 80s), and the engine from underneath cooked that egg in less time than it took me to get home.

It's not hyperbole, nor is it BS. In my case it took ten minutes to do all the damage it needed to do to make the paint look like crap.

103 posted on 11/01/2010 12:06:59 PM PDT by IYAS9YAS (Liberalism can be summed up thusly: someone craps their pants and we all have to wear diapers)
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To: Don W
The power buffer was used as a last resort to bring back the shine. It didn't work. Nor did waxing (first try), rubbing compound and wax (second try).

As far as damaging the paint, have you ever color sanded a paint job?

You basically take sandpaper to your newly finished paint job to remove minor imperfections (runs, dust) and orange peel (look across your paint close to the surface, often it looks rough like the peel of an orange). This is all done to the clear-coat, as going through it and getting into the paint, pretty much means your screwed, and have to start over. IIRC (this was in the 80s), we started with 1500 grit paper and we wet-sanded the whole car. We finished with 2000 grit, again, wet-sanding. Then, we used (my dad, did - I wouldn't touch it for fear of burning through the paint) a high-powered buffer and compound to buff the clearcoat back to shine. The first compound cleans up the little sanding marks and ends with a swirl. The second with the buffer is a finer grit and cleans up the swirls. Then finish with a hand-rubbed compound to get rid of any lingering swirl marks and wax to complete the job.

Trust me, I took care of that paint, but the car was my daily driver and it did obtain some dings over time.

104 posted on 11/01/2010 12:19:54 PM PDT by IYAS9YAS (Liberalism can be summed up thusly: someone craps their pants and we all have to wear diapers)
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