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To: ottbmare
I assume that, by "chop" you really mean, "split"...

I got one of the "spring-loaded mauls" marked "5" in this photo:

It works far better than it looks; the first time I tried it, (kneeling on my concrete garage floor) it popped the splits off with so much force that they flew over and dented my car in the next garage bay...

As this article says,

"This photo of mauls shows the spring-loaded maul, #5, which looks like a foolish gadget but which truly works well, and will really throw the wood around if you are wise and work on the edges and don't aim for the middle of a big one. Highly recommended by the Bird Dog Consumer Reports."

It requires much less force than a standard maul -- or hitting a wedge with a (10 lb -- ouch!) maul or sledgehammer...

26 posted on 03/16/2009 5:38:13 AM PDT by TXnMA ("Allah": Satan's current alias...!!)
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To: TXnMA
If you are using a maul and have logs over eighteen inches in diameter it's a good idea to score the face of the log with a chainsaw to a depth of at least an inch. It gives you a place to start the maul and makes a huge difference.

I will check out the spring loaded maul Looks interesting.

34 posted on 03/16/2009 5:48:46 AM PDT by raybbr (It's going to get a lot worse now that the anchor babies are voting!)
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To: TXnMA

How does that gizmo work on elm. I normally use an 8 lb maul and can split faster than a hydraulic splitter on most wood. My problem is elm. Half the time, if it is too wide to fit in the stove door, I throw it away.

I need the exercise and am not interested in a hydraulic splitter but I am very interested in something that can take on elm.


35 posted on 03/16/2009 5:48:52 AM PDT by dangerdoc (dangerdoc (not actually dangerous any more))
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To: TXnMA

The link to #5 is broken. Can you give any more info about the tool?

Specifically how much does it weigh and is is available with a fiberglass handle?


56 posted on 03/16/2009 10:22:19 AM PDT by dangerdoc (dangerdoc (not actually dangerous any more))
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