Running them dry doesn’t run them dry; what happens is that there is a small sediment reservoir at the bottom of the carb float bowl that still holds a small amount of gas and dirt, moisture and it is what will deteriorate rapidly and form harmful deposits.
When the tank is refilled this sediment is stirred up and pulled into the main metering jet, an orifice about the size of a hair, which then will starve the engine for gas.
If water is present its tension is such that the action of the piston is insufficient to draw it through the hole and allow the gas above it entry.
Ironically the quick cure for this (very small amounts of water only) is to pour about an ounce of propylene alcohol into the tank to break the surface tension of the water.
Always keep the tank full of fresh available fuel.
Absolutely correct. I usually get a higher octane fuel when I start engines that have sat over the winter. This brings the octane back up to the recommended level so the engine runs cooler.
Keep your tanks full over the winter. This reduces octane loses even further and there is no need to drain the system beforehand. 2 cycles will have oil separation, so be sure to stir the tank first. This is why many complain that they won’t start if left sitting for a long period. A heavy dose of mostly oil is drawn into the carb immediately when starting.
As far as the argument of ethanol solidifying in the tank or leaving deposits, that is false. It cuts any scale or varnish deposits in the fuel system that were there from letting the system dry out repeatedly. (Benzene residue, found in all gasoline) Ethanol is not the culprit. In fact, most varnish thinner/solvent is ethyl alcohol.