It takes a strong swimmer just to stay afloat while trying to swim parallel to the rip/beach. And eight foot waves would swamp even a good swimmer if they didn’t understand how to duck dwon into the wave as it breaks over them.
Diving into and under the wave is a good idea, hoping that a monster wave isn’t right behind it. I’ve come out of the water bloodied by waves that have caught and tumbled me, scraping me along the ocean floor.