How often do you go in the ocean? I consider myself a frequent guest of the ocean and I know from personal experience that people who are not strong swimmers will often have problems swimming even 50 yards, particularly if conditions are bad. As a swimmer, the first thing you need to do is not tire yourself out - because otherwise you are dead.
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I could wade into the water at Rockaway until I was about chest high, then there was a sudden drop. Further on out there's a sandbar accessable during low tide. But only the locals know about it.
Of course, after a storm that drop can be much closer to the shore.
The surf can be nasty here. My brother had his shoulder dislocated by 'triple waves' - twice!