I plan to focus just on Guatemala on a future trip. I seem to be drawn to places subject to military upheavals and civil wars. I'm headed to Sri Lanka in the spring if hostilities between the Tamil Tigers and the Sinhalese permit. If not maybe I'll switch plans to Guatemala. Any advice on the best months to visit? I hate really hot weather and don't want rain to spoil things!
First of all, going when there is less hostility is always better for any number of reasons. Since every large city has a bad neighborhood, it is also wise to steer clear of that as well.
If you find yourself attracted to a place precisely because it is dangerous, in all seriousness you should mention that to some type of analyst, to at least find out why you have such a motive. It is not uncommon, in that many people are attracted to high risk activities, but it is important to know why.
As far as Antigua Guatemala, it is a very temperate place with little variation of weather. The temperature changes only slightly, year around, in about a 72-80 degree range. The better places in town have fireplaces, but they are usually just decorative. They burn that balsa-like wood that is gone in 10-15 minutes.
The town is oriented towards teaching young American couples Spanish, so typically you hire a guide to accompany and teach you as you meander around. Good horseback riding as well.
The American expats in town tend towards Hemingway types, and are a little defensive about the prospect of returning to the US. While TV is available (I noted Guatemala City got the Sci Fi Channel before Phoenix did), in Antigua, few Americans watch it much.
Importantly, when you go there, be sure to buy the limit of clothing and goods to bring back to the US. When I was there, it was about $200. Back in the US, it was worth perhaps ten times as much, and looks very snazzy. They also sell wood carvings such as masks.
Gee, I can almost taste the guacamole and frijoles negroes.