Anyone interested in the unforgiving nature of extreme climbing should read Jon Krackauer's book "Into thin Air" about the disastrous guided climb back in 1996.
Start with a deadly activity, add climbing guide profit motive, throw in some totally inexperienced wealthy thrill seekers. There are some totally heroic stories in it along with some totally stupid decisions.
...(the doctor had the laser surgery so he wouldn't need glasses, but the altitude affected his eyesight)...
..and he, in sheer determination, knowing they left him there to die...
...got down the mountain!
He lost fingers, nose and more....but he's alive.
That was a very disturbing book that I couldn't put down.
I've read that excellent book and your brief summary is exactly the impression I was left with as well.