See post 211. The link has a story that indicates that those who are too far gone will not be rescued. This man was discovered frozen. There's no way to warm him. There's no way to keep him from further freezing on the way down. There's little Ox up there and he had to be given Ox just to wake him up. He was already passed out again when they walked away.
They had assessed his condition and concluded that they never would have got him back. They were right. He was dead when they passed on their way down. That was hours later, not the next day, or close to it. Everyone that goes up there knows the risks and their abilities and limitations. This isn't as if the man was rescuable. He wasn't even conscious, or capable of staying conscious.
Apparently, Sir Edmund Hillary, who made the climb before it was a "holiday" for the idle rich, disagrees with your climbing conclusions and expertise. I'll have to choose his opinion.