"OK. Where was this guys party and why didn't they help him?"
That's the main thing I've been wondering while reading this thread. Was this guy making a solo ascent attempt? If not, why did his part abandon him? They surely had more responsibility toward him than anyone else. If he was making a solo attempt, well ya pays yer money and ya takes yer chances. You put yourself in one of the most dangerous places on earth, don't expect someone else to bail you out if you get in trouble.
Pitiful excuse for abandoning a dying man so one can get a little glory.